Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Adept

Hello Jason,
I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.
I check the following only on my mini after every run:
1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.
2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.
3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.
4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.
5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.
6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.
Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.
Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.

Later,
Calvin.
I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.
I check the following only on my mini after every run:
1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.
2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.
3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.
4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.
5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.
6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.
Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.
Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.


Later,
Calvin.

http://thercracer.blogspot.com/
Tamiya TA05 in M size.
Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
Tamiya TA05 in M size.
Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.

Lol, some people have called me " Calvin " in the last six months, not sure what that meant.....................
Must mean that i'm faster than a certain J.Warren ........
Must mean that i'm faster than a certain J.Warren ........
Hello Jason,
I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.
I check the following only on my mini after every run:
1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.
2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.
3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.
4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.
5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.
6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.
Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.
Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.

Later,
Calvin.
I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.
I check the following only on my mini after every run:
1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.
2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.
3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.
4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.
5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.
6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.
Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.
Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.


Later,
Calvin.

http://thercracer.blogspot.com/
Tamiya TA05 in M size.
Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
Tamiya TA05 in M size.
Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
Not sure a proper FWD version would offer much that the M-05 doesn't already since the TA05-M is using the existing M-chassis suspension parts.
I'm more interested to see whether this is the catalyst for Tamiya's entry into the 4wd mini market with a normal-release, which could bring this class to life.
Also intriguing to see the 380 motor in there. Perhaps 380 is the way M-chassis cars need to go to keep the slow-cars-good-racing philosophy going in the brushless/Lipo age.

380 with an LiFE pack would help with packaging issues in the chassis but 6.6v on a 380 motor might make it hard to put the power down.
Anyone wanna try one to find out? Just need a 380 to 540 adaptor plate....
Anyone wanna try one to find out? Just need a 380 to 540 adaptor plate....
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)


Tech Master
iTrader: (21)

Not sure what brand it was, but I saw one - looked awesome, but the body sides were hard up against the battery holder, so if you're running normal packs with the wires out the end they will push out the body making it look crap. Corally plugs out the top - no probs!

http://thercracer.blogspot.com/
Tamiya TA05 in M size.
Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
Tamiya TA05 in M size.
Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.

Are the blades for a mini anything special? Or are all blades generic?

53890, same as on the 415, 416 and 417.
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)