cementsurfer86

Agreed, I loved that when running My F201. The car went together damn-near seamlessly, just as all Tamiya cars do, pretty stoked to get it out on a track and put some laps on it.

WC

iTrader: (28)

caution

weld/overdose & other similar drift option parts often have
oni-camber/caster geometry that don't exist in race/factory parts

eg camber -ve 7-10deg vs -ve 2-4deg; caster 5-15deg vs 2-3deg

jerzi

Wy in earth to use aluminium parts like those.
Tamiya plastic parts are very durable and very light and what the best, they are cheap also.
Those parts are so strong that when you hit something. something else will broke than those parts you have change now.
Stay with the original parts.
Jerzi

yumlailai

Do you know the inner ratio for TA06? how about the rear gear box??

WC

iTrader: (28)

y'know, i've never even thought about checking the geared ratio
Might do so if i remember next time i've got the gears loose in my paws.

Belt ratio would be 39:18... 2.167 or 2 1/6


modern aluminium designs properly relief'd aren't that heavy anymore;
when you're looking at making niche low-volume products it'll be
cheaper to get alloy CNC'd than to do injection molding

Glass-filled suspension components aren't as stiff as the Carbon-filled TRF parts... about 2-3X the price.

I wouldn't use alloy suspension arms usually, prefer to let those break
instead of taking out the gearbox mounts or hingepin blocks.

jerzi

WC
Have you seen many pro drivers use aluminium parts in the suspension. Here in Finland they use only plastic parts.
In my opinion the drivers who use the aluminium parts in the suspension are the guys who want theres car look good in the pit and in the pics.
For sure they dont give anything to the car only the look.
Jerzi

ta04evah

iTrader: (2)

Inner ratio is 2.17

It's mentioned in a formula within the setting up section in the instruction manual.

Cheers
Rob.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Aluminium as suspenstion arms, steering arms and castor blocks are no good in racing, as they tweak in an accident rather than break, but you don't often notice the tweak, just a badly handling car...

jerzi

Thanks...
Jerzi

jerzi

Now my project is littlebit futher.
My chassis (3mm thick) is almost ready now and here is the pic of it.
Tomorrow I`ll make the radioplate.
Jerzi

http://jerryn.kuvat.fi/kuvat/RC.AUTO...T/IMG_0537.JPG

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

I think for the TA06 the alum steering is a good upgrade. And the servo saver will relieve the impact. However on suspension arms and others parts. yes I agree.

TommyAfrica

Nice bottom plate how do you cut/sand edges don't it split or get frayed
I made some parts before and it's very dusty

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

^ why the thumb downs? I think thumbs up would be more appropriate, this guys is actually doing something interesting...

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

How are you guys routing your wires ?

AleD123

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys wanted to know if this was a decent drift car as the ta05 wasnt a bad drift car and was wondering if anyone has tried it