13LikesRCLAB 7even Cars.
12-27-2001, 10:14 PM
#421
Tech Apprentice
shock replacement
I broke a shock shaft yesterday 
Nothing else broke, just the angle of impact I guess. I was thinking about just getting new shocks, since I would have to order and wait anyway. Are the TC3 threaded shocks a good deal ($52)? Or what other brand works good as well?
Thanks
-s
Nothing else broke, just the angle of impact I guess. I was thinking about just getting new shocks, since I would have to order and wait anyway. Are the TC3 threaded shocks a good deal ($52)? Or what other brand works good as well?Thanks
-s
12-28-2001, 04:50 AM
#422
lizard:
Watch the steering arrangement, if you get it up side down it wont steer equally left and right... Also for the front one way, you need to glue the belt retention ring on it, my manual didnt say so.... I am running mine without front toe, but I got 2 degree rear toe..... I recently changed shock oil to 35 which made the car a lot more lively and easy to control on tight tracks.... still using the orig springs.... Oh yes, make sure you got the shims correctly placed for the rear axle ... in mine the manual showed it placed between the t hub bearings, which is ofcourse incorrect, it should be behine the hub....
I used to run the one way but I found it in the damp conditions here it makes braking tricky.... so I am currently running it FT4WD.... although I must admit the one way is quicker.... gotta wait till summer then
_neas_:
RCLAB are bringing Titamium shock shafts soon.... but they told me their team car in UK are using Yokomo Titanium shaft which fits correctly.
Watch the steering arrangement, if you get it up side down it wont steer equally left and right... Also for the front one way, you need to glue the belt retention ring on it, my manual didnt say so.... I am running mine without front toe, but I got 2 degree rear toe..... I recently changed shock oil to 35 which made the car a lot more lively and easy to control on tight tracks.... still using the orig springs.... Oh yes, make sure you got the shims correctly placed for the rear axle ... in mine the manual showed it placed between the t hub bearings, which is ofcourse incorrect, it should be behine the hub....
I used to run the one way but I found it in the damp conditions here it makes braking tricky.... so I am currently running it FT4WD.... although I must admit the one way is quicker.... gotta wait till summer then
_neas_:
RCLAB are bringing Titamium shock shafts soon.... but they told me their team car in UK are using Yokomo Titanium shaft which fits correctly.
12-28-2001, 07:42 AM
#423
Tech Apprentice
Shocks
Thanks for the help with the shocks. My local LHS might even have the yokomo ones in stock already..if not they can order them I guess.
I have another question though...I have the graphite shocktowers on both front and back I wasnt quite sure how to hook up the shocks to them and still keep the same angle (perpendicular). There were some metal spacers in the kit so I just added them to each screw holding the shock on until it ran straight up and down.
Is that the right way to do it? Is there an exact number of spacers to use....I always get a little nervous when I am forced to make something up (at least when a kit is new anyway
.
-S
ps. I saw a picture here I think with tamiya gold shocks on a car...what is the part number on those if someone knows? I went to tamiya's site and there is a quite a few sets of shocks...but most look like 'low friction' types with spacers....not threaded bodies (which is kind of what I am looking for).
I have another question though...I have the graphite shocktowers on both front and back I wasnt quite sure how to hook up the shocks to them and still keep the same angle (perpendicular). There were some metal spacers in the kit so I just added them to each screw holding the shock on until it ran straight up and down.
Is that the right way to do it? Is there an exact number of spacers to use....I always get a little nervous when I am forced to make something up (at least when a kit is new anyway
. -S
ps. I saw a picture here I think with tamiya gold shocks on a car...what is the part number on those if someone knows? I went to tamiya's site and there is a quite a few sets of shocks...but most look like 'low friction' types with spacers....not threaded bodies (which is kind of what I am looking for).
12-28-2001, 09:31 AM
#424
HI neas,
The Tamiya gold shocks part # are 53280.Op(280).
It's a set of 4 complete shock assembly.Everything you need in the package.Very smooth shocks.And if it's build right,it'll never leaks for a very long time.The shock shaft is strong and very smooth indeed.
Hope this info helps.
As for the spacers,arrange it so it is not in an angle when you look down from the top to the lwr point of your shock.Make it even between the lower point where the shock mt.This is to ensure the shock works well without sitting on an angle with all the friction and wearing out the O ring seals an 1 point.
The TC3 Team shocks are good shocks.There's a few racers uses them and they find it works like a charm.These shocks are threaded bodies.I guess it's easier to add or lessen the spring load.I stayed with the shims part.So I know they are even spaced out.Otherwise a tweak board be better to set the threaded shocks.Lots of option/different ways.I'll leave it to you on the shocks.
Chrisman
The Tamiya gold shocks part # are 53280.Op(280).
It's a set of 4 complete shock assembly.Everything you need in the package.Very smooth shocks.And if it's build right,it'll never leaks for a very long time.The shock shaft is strong and very smooth indeed.
Hope this info helps.
As for the spacers,arrange it so it is not in an angle when you look down from the top to the lwr point of your shock.Make it even between the lower point where the shock mt.This is to ensure the shock works well without sitting on an angle with all the friction and wearing out the O ring seals an 1 point.
The TC3 Team shocks are good shocks.There's a few racers uses them and they find it works like a charm.These shocks are threaded bodies.I guess it's easier to add or lessen the spring load.I stayed with the shims part.So I know they are even spaced out.Otherwise a tweak board be better to set the threaded shocks.Lots of option/different ways.I'll leave it to you on the shocks.
Chrisman
12-28-2001, 09:47 AM
#425
Tech Apprentice
That makes sense, with the threaded bodies...it might be hard to be sure that you got them adjusted evenly. I am going to ask my lhs if they can get some in...
Did the stock springs from the RC Lab kit work on those shocks btw?
And finally, everyone... are the allum. parts (hub carriers and such) lighter then the stock plastic ones? Or are they just for strength and style?
Oh, and one more thing....anyone know if the battery strapdowns for the Xray T1 will work on the Lab?
Did the stock springs from the RC Lab kit work on those shocks btw?
And finally, everyone... are the allum. parts (hub carriers and such) lighter then the stock plastic ones? Or are they just for strength and style?
Oh, and one more thing....anyone know if the battery strapdowns for the Xray T1 will work on the Lab?
12-28-2001, 11:51 AM
#426
Hi neas,
The stk springs may not work as well as the AE ones,the stk ones are designed for RCLAb ones.It might just work for the time being but might bind and the lwr shock cap may come loose too from impact.I sugges you if u get the Ae shocks,get some of their tuning springs too.
As for aluminium parts,look closely at them.They have different degree of toe ins and caster from the plastic ones.They do look great and they are strong.It does change the driving characteristic.But weight is an issue.Metal is always heavier than plastic.The plastic parts are better for weight reduction.I uses a combination of aluminum and plastic suspension parts on my stock 6.0 to keep the weight at legal weight.Otherwise I'll be under weight.
The org battery strap is the best for holding the batteries down.It's designed for the battery cells and keep them from moving a round and light weight too.The top of it has a channel for cooling too.It's not just for looks.
The T1 battery strap works too but why change,if the org ones is better.
One thing you may one to do is the diff blades.Check with your lhs for them.It'll save your diff from pitting and wear for a long time.A little small investment goes a long way.This can be done by your lhs or by yourself.Check the old pages here,I beleive I have pics to show each step of how to do it yourself.Part is from the T1.
Chrisman.
The stk springs may not work as well as the AE ones,the stk ones are designed for RCLAb ones.It might just work for the time being but might bind and the lwr shock cap may come loose too from impact.I sugges you if u get the Ae shocks,get some of their tuning springs too.
As for aluminium parts,look closely at them.They have different degree of toe ins and caster from the plastic ones.They do look great and they are strong.It does change the driving characteristic.But weight is an issue.Metal is always heavier than plastic.The plastic parts are better for weight reduction.I uses a combination of aluminum and plastic suspension parts on my stock 6.0 to keep the weight at legal weight.Otherwise I'll be under weight.
The org battery strap is the best for holding the batteries down.It's designed for the battery cells and keep them from moving a round and light weight too.The top of it has a channel for cooling too.It's not just for looks.
The T1 battery strap works too but why change,if the org ones is better.
One thing you may one to do is the diff blades.Check with your lhs for them.It'll save your diff from pitting and wear for a long time.A little small investment goes a long way.This can be done by your lhs or by yourself.Check the old pages here,I beleive I have pics to show each step of how to do it yourself.
Part is from the T1.Chrisman.
12-29-2001, 12:46 PM
#427
Chrisman.... I totally agree with you on your preference of using spacers rather than using threaded shcks....
I am still using the original shocls and I found them to be pretty good, I am just not happy about the shaft, so I am waiting on the Ti shafts fromthem.... otherwise I will be using the Yokomos.... I got a set of 4 Tamiya SLF shocks (pinks ones) on my other car.... and yes they are ultra smooth and I prefer them to the gold ones as they are not threaded! I may even get a set of the Labat some point as they are quite reasonable in price me thinks....
As for springs..... here they recommend HPI ones although I am still using the original ones and found them ok on my local track.... maybe I am only running stock ?!?
Finally regarding the ally bits.... I got 2 degree toe in ally at the rear, I have ordered the new 1degree ally to play with...... At the front I left it plastic as they are fine.... but I am upgrading the C hub carrier to ally becasue if it fractures, you wont notice much when driving it...... but if you then hit something then the whole hubwill break.... as it did in mine..... as the load carried by the C hub carrier will be totally transferred to the bottom screw and top hat, the top if fine as there is the top ball link, the bottom is rigid... hence it will break easily.....
I am still using the original shocls and I found them to be pretty good, I am just not happy about the shaft, so I am waiting on the Ti shafts fromthem.... otherwise I will be using the Yokomos.... I got a set of 4 Tamiya SLF shocks (pinks ones) on my other car.... and yes they are ultra smooth and I prefer them to the gold ones as they are not threaded! I may even get a set of the Labat some point as they are quite reasonable in price me thinks....
As for springs..... here they recommend HPI ones although I am still using the original ones and found them ok on my local track.... maybe I am only running stock ?!?
Finally regarding the ally bits.... I got 2 degree toe in ally at the rear, I have ordered the new 1degree ally to play with...... At the front I left it plastic as they are fine.... but I am upgrading the C hub carrier to ally becasue if it fractures, you wont notice much when driving it...... but if you then hit something then the whole hubwill break.... as it did in mine..... as the load carried by the C hub carrier will be totally transferred to the bottom screw and top hat, the top if fine as there is the top ball link, the bottom is rigid... hence it will break easily.....
12-29-2001, 02:00 PM
#428
Hello Sonneteer,
Spacers are cool.Easy to use and if lost...replacement is easy to get.But how often it get lost anyways.More like miss placing them..
The Tamiya gold shocks are not threaded over here in North America as far as I know.The new Silver or Limited Edition blue are threaded.As for the Pink ones,it has been the around for a long time from Tamiya.Hey,it does not matter how old they are,they all works fabulously.... Thats what counts.
As for the stock shocks,When I build mine,I used some green slime for the O rings and coat the shaft with it too.They work fine for me.It's very easy to put a plier or some sort on the shaft and damage the coating on the shaft or the shaft itself.What I do is hold it with a side cutter on the very top of the thread ends and it works everytime.Breaking the shaft....haven't broke any yet but so far i heard 2 drivers.You and neas.Yoks fit and so as Kyosho's and Atlas shaft works.I run the 6.0 in both mod and stock classes.So far no problem except for the new 6.0 ver 2 pulleys.It strips on the inner pulleys even with the set screw tight.Maybe too much H/P from my mod...hee!!he!!
As for the moment,back to my aluminium ones( alittle heavier but at least I know it's not stripping).
I wish we can get better low friction belts.It's just a wish...will look for one thats close to RCLAB's.We never know....
The org c hubs are light weight.I agree they are rigid,but they break.Best to go for the aluminium 5 degree caster c hubs.Much better.Toe in the rear either the stock 1.5 or the aluminium 2 degree works well.I'm using 2 right now for mod.Got to have those rear toe ins..In stock 1 degree in the rear be good.
Springs......endless brands.I stayed with Kyosho's and Xray T1's.
They work well too.Just preferences.....
Until then....Cheerio!!!!.
Chrisman
Spacers are cool.Easy to use and if lost...replacement is easy to get.But how often it get lost anyways.More like miss placing them..
The Tamiya gold shocks are not threaded over here in North America as far as I know.The new Silver or Limited Edition blue are threaded.As for the Pink ones,it has been the around for a long time from Tamiya.Hey,it does not matter how old they are,they all works fabulously....
Thats what counts.As for the stock shocks,When I build mine,I used some green slime for the O rings and coat the shaft with it too.They work fine for me.It's very easy to put a plier or some sort on the shaft and damage the coating on the shaft or the shaft itself.What I do is hold it with a side cutter on the very top of the thread ends and it works everytime.Breaking the shaft....haven't broke any yet but so far i heard 2 drivers.You and neas.Yoks fit and so as Kyosho's and Atlas shaft works.I run the 6.0 in both mod and stock classes.So far no problem except for the new 6.0 ver 2 pulleys.It strips on the inner pulleys even with the set screw tight.Maybe too much H/P from my mod...hee!!he!!
As for the moment,back to my aluminium ones( alittle heavier but at least I know it's not stripping).
I wish we can get better low friction belts.It's just a wish...will look for one thats close to RCLAB's.We never know....
The org c hubs are light weight.I agree they are rigid,but they break.Best to go for the aluminium 5 degree caster c hubs.Much better.Toe in the rear either the stock 1.5 or the aluminium 2 degree works well.I'm using 2 right now for mod.Got to have those rear toe ins.
.In stock 1 degree in the rear be good.Springs......endless brands.I stayed with Kyosho's and Xray T1's.
They work well too.Just preferences.....
Until then....Cheerio!!!!.
Chrisman
12-29-2001, 02:48 PM
#429
You are right, the gold ones are not threaded..... I meant the silver ones....
By the way I didnt break the shock shaft but they are scored.... so I will have to update them soon.... or try the Tamiya pink ones I have here.....
Did you mean the lay shaft pullys? My plastic ones are showing some wear, so I am thinking of getting some ally ones or get some made from acetol...
By the way, I already got some precision spur adaptor made to keep things spinning sweet. with larger M4 set screws for more strength!!! .... next will be getting some layshaft bearing insert made, the corrent plastic ones are ok, but while I am at it I may as well precision make some in acetol, all can add spinning efficiency....
Drive belt, I am thinking swapping my belts around, since the rear ones are nice and lose due to the belt tensioner lifting it off the battery packs, I figured to swap them round to they will run more freely...
Will be testing some acetol outdrives in the new year....
By the way I didnt break the shock shaft but they are scored.... so I will have to update them soon.... or try the Tamiya pink ones I have here.....
Did you mean the lay shaft pullys? My plastic ones are showing some wear, so I am thinking of getting some ally ones or get some made from acetol...
By the way, I already got some precision spur adaptor made to keep things spinning sweet. with larger M4 set screws for more strength!!! .... next will be getting some layshaft bearing insert made, the corrent plastic ones are ok, but while I am at it I may as well precision make some in acetol, all can add spinning efficiency....
Drive belt, I am thinking swapping my belts around, since the rear ones are nice and lose due to the belt tensioner lifting it off the battery packs, I figured to swap them round to they will run more freely...
Will be testing some acetol outdrives in the new year....
12-29-2001, 03:06 PM
#430
Hey!!hey!!,
Yeah...the lay shaft ones...they are out,tossed into the recycle bin.Maybe new Delrin lay shaft pulleys and out drives for the new year....this will be so cool...so light and tough.I could see the acceleration part..One thing abt running mod...it does wear the rear belt faster than the frt..
Cvd slops are still there.That takes away power....If you had the wheel in the air hold the belt tight so nothin turns and see how much movement the wheel moves...I'm going to try bigger cvd pins to see it takes away the slop.Till then..seeya!!..
Chrisman.
Yeah...the lay shaft ones...they are out,tossed into the recycle bin.Maybe new Delrin lay shaft pulleys and out drives for the new year...
.this will be so cool...so light and tough.I could see the acceleration part..One thing abt running mod...it does wear the rear belt faster than the frt..Cvd slops are still there.That takes away power....
If you had the wheel in the air hold the belt tight so nothin turns and see how much movement the wheel moves...I'm going to try bigger cvd pins to see it takes away the slop.Till then..seeya!!..Chrisman.
12-29-2001, 04:25 PM
#431
Tech Adept
anyone try the irs pin cushions for their outdrives?
12-30-2001, 12:56 AM
#433
next week?
12-30-2001, 09:55 AM
#434
Tech Adept
i use the pin cushions on my tc3's outdrives (steel outdrives) and they work well. or you could even try the shumacher blades.
chrisman, as soon as i sell teh shumacher ill contact you about purchasing the 5.2ttt
chrisman, as soon as i sell teh shumacher ill contact you about purchasing the 5.2ttt
12-30-2001, 05:29 PM
#435
Hey Shockwave,
Sorry couldn't make it ......next week for sure.Will give u a shout then.
Hi Type S,
RCLAB has new blades for the diff.So no more hunting for them unless ,you can't find any.The Xray T1 fits nicely.Keep in touch.
Chrisman>
Sorry couldn't make it
......next week for sure.Will give u a shout then.Hi Type S,
RCLAB has new blades for the diff.So no more hunting for them unless ,you can't find any.The Xray T1 fits nicely.Keep in touch.
Chrisman>