1LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
11-15-2008, 05:03 PM
#3241
OK, here's the scoop for gearing the Tamiya TB-02 for USVTA 21.5. I geared to 4.37 to start out, and the gear mesh is perfect, so I'm assuming that the other combos will work as well as the methodology to calculate them was the same.
All of the following numbers pertain to 64p gears (use the "hockey puck" spur adapter that came with the kit).
FDR 4.37:
- 74t spur, 44t pinion, motor mount position B.
- I got these from superiorhobbies.com. 44t pinion=RRP4344, 74t spur=XENG640074
- tested and meshes perfectly
FDR 4.28:
- 74t spur, 45t pinion, motor mount position C.
FDR 4.25:
- 72t spur, 44t pinion, motor mount position A.
- 72t spur may be hard to find, but PRS just started making them.
FDR 4.47:
- 74t spur, 43t pinion, motor mount position A/B.
- 3racing mount A/B position will probably work perfectly with this combo
FDR 4.58:
- 74t spur, 42t pinion, motor mount position A.
It wouldn't hurt to use the 3racing motor mount with any of these combos as it gives you finer mesh adjustment.
All of the following numbers pertain to 64p gears (use the "hockey puck" spur adapter that came with the kit).
FDR 4.37:
- 74t spur, 44t pinion, motor mount position B.
- I got these from superiorhobbies.com. 44t pinion=RRP4344, 74t spur=XENG640074
- tested and meshes perfectly
FDR 4.28:
- 74t spur, 45t pinion, motor mount position C.
FDR 4.25:
- 72t spur, 44t pinion, motor mount position A.
- 72t spur may be hard to find, but PRS just started making them.
FDR 4.47:
- 74t spur, 43t pinion, motor mount position A/B.
- 3racing mount A/B position will probably work perfectly with this combo
FDR 4.58:
- 74t spur, 42t pinion, motor mount position A.
It wouldn't hurt to use the 3racing motor mount with any of these combos as it gives you finer mesh adjustment.
11-17-2008, 02:16 PM
#3243
To make a long story short and quote Ron Popeil and the same time:
"Set it and forget it"
John
11-17-2008, 04:24 PM
#3245
What's the point of your comment?
Do you fully charge your battery packs?
Do you glue your tires?
Do you adjust your gearing?
Do you adjust your suspension or just slap everything together?
Do you lubricate moving parts?
If you answered "yes" to any of the above, should I ridicule you for trying to be "the fastest" implying that you're not out to have fun? The car will still function and circulate around the track without doing those things.
There's nothing shady or overly-competitive about adjusting motor timing. It's just another setting within your control, like everything I listed above.
Yes, VTA is largely about fun racing over all-out competition. However, it still is racing, not a parade.
Do you fully charge your battery packs?
Do you glue your tires?
Do you adjust your gearing?
Do you adjust your suspension or just slap everything together?
Do you lubricate moving parts?
If you answered "yes" to any of the above, should I ridicule you for trying to be "the fastest" implying that you're not out to have fun? The car will still function and circulate around the track without doing those things.
There's nothing shady or overly-competitive about adjusting motor timing. It's just another setting within your control, like everything I listed above.
Yes, VTA is largely about fun racing over all-out competition. However, it still is racing, not a parade.
11-17-2008, 04:49 PM
#3247
I think the point was that if you're worried about brushless timing in VTA you're WAY overthinking it. I don't disagree with that sentiment, but we all have to find our fun threshhold where ever it may be.
As far as your observations, I can still honestly say that my VTA ride (TC3) has EXACTLY the same settings (whatever the hell that might have been) it had on it when I dug it out of the basement and blew the dust off it almost two years ago now to build our "prototype" Vintage TA car. I STILL can't honestly tell you whether or not it even HAS any oil in the shocks, much less what weight that oil might be. I think the last time the car was "seriously" raced it was stock rubber (it's sprung pretty soft...loses a lot of time in transitions), but it might have been something else. I've replaced a couple broken parts since, but no maintenance, no tuning. Throw a charge in the battery, throw the car on the track. Built with stuff laying around the house. Laugh like hell with the guys everytime we race 'em.
As far as your observations, I can still honestly say that my VTA ride (TC3) has EXACTLY the same settings (whatever the hell that might have been) it had on it when I dug it out of the basement and blew the dust off it almost two years ago now to build our "prototype" Vintage TA car. I STILL can't honestly tell you whether or not it even HAS any oil in the shocks, much less what weight that oil might be. I think the last time the car was "seriously" raced it was stock rubber (it's sprung pretty soft...loses a lot of time in transitions), but it might have been something else. I've replaced a couple broken parts since, but no maintenance, no tuning. Throw a charge in the battery, throw the car on the track. Built with stuff laying around the house. Laugh like hell with the guys everytime we race 'em.
11-17-2008, 05:12 PM
#3249
Geez, never f-ing mind then. I wasn't trying to start some sort of "who has more fun" controversy here -- I just thought I was asking a simple question about a very mainstream motor tuning practice. I didn't know there were "cool points" for racing with the worst car or that I must not be having fun because I give a crap about how my car performs.
I race a plastic Tamiya TB-02 I got second-hand for fifty bucks, plastic shocks and all.
Maybe you guys are just looking for something to bitch about since Doug announced that there were no motor changes until at least next summer.
From now I'll just keep to myself. Sorry to have disturbed you.
I race a plastic Tamiya TB-02 I got second-hand for fifty bucks, plastic shocks and all.
Maybe you guys are just looking for something to bitch about since Doug announced that there were no motor changes until at least next summer.
From now I'll just keep to myself. Sorry to have disturbed you.
11-17-2008, 05:33 PM
#3251
Geez, never f-ing mind then. I wasn't trying to start some sort of "who has more fun" controversy here -- I just thought I was asking a simple question about a very mainstream motor tuning practice. I didn't know there were "cool points" for racing with the worst car or that I must not be having fun because I give a crap about how my car performs.
I race a plastic Tamiya TB-02 I got second-hand for fifty bucks, plastic shocks and all.
Maybe you guys are just looking for something to bitch about since Doug announced that there were no motor changes until at least next summer.
From now I'll just keep to myself. Sorry to have disturbed you.
I race a plastic Tamiya TB-02 I got second-hand for fifty bucks, plastic shocks and all.
Maybe you guys are just looking for something to bitch about since Doug announced that there were no motor changes until at least next summer.
From now I'll just keep to myself. Sorry to have disturbed you.
The rest was merely a response to your implication that "everybody does it", not a parade, etc. No, not everybody tunes these things to a razors edge, or even close to it, but if doing so gives YOU pleasure, have at it. THAT'S what was said.
11-17-2008, 06:00 PM
#3252
From my experience (I run a GTB/21.5....same thing), the timing on the motor depends on what kind of gear ratio you want to run and how tight the track is. If I'm running on a tight layout, I'll drop the fdr to around a 4.9-5.1 and back off the timing. It adds more punch coming out of the corners, and you don't have to carry a ton of corner speed. If it's a open layout, I run a 4.5-4.8 fdr and crank the timing all the way for rip on the straights-but you have to be very careful with your corner speed. It's very easy to get the motor/speedo temp up there in a 8 minute race. The best advice I can give is to experiment yourself and see what you like, but it definately makes a diffrence.
11-17-2008, 06:18 PM
#3253
reenmachine,
For OVAL racing on short tracks most of the guys have the timing all the way up...with the GTB and the LRP Shpere's I only get so much axle spin out of mine...with the LRP Sphere Comp I get about 500 more RPM
I can't see it helping much on the ON-ROAD but it may....
let me know how it works...
For OVAL racing on short tracks most of the guys have the timing all the way up...with the GTB and the LRP Shpere's I only get so much axle spin out of mine...with the LRP Sphere Comp I get about 500 more RPM
I can't see it helping much on the ON-ROAD but it may....
let me know how it works...
