1LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
11-13-2008, 11:24 AM
#3211
Here's what the other side looks like:
if you change the Tire diameter (if you have a caliper with), Rollout changes.
Tire Diameter Tire Diameter Rollout Rollout
Inches Millimeters in Inches in Millimeters
2.600 66.000 1.802 45.755
2.600 66.000 1.848 46.899
2.600 66.000 1.893 48.043
2.600 66.000 1.938 49.186
2.600 66.000 1.983 50.330
2.600 66.000 2.028 51.474
2.600 66.000 2.073 52.618
2.600 66.000 2.118 53.762
2.600 66.000 2.163 54.906
2.600 66.000 2.208 56.050
2.600 66.000 2.253 57.194
2.600 66.000 2.298 58.337
2.600 66.000 2.343 59.481
11-13-2008, 11:37 AM
#3213
Oh yeah it was 64 pitch. Im at work so I dont have the car. I will let you know what pinion is, if that still matters. I just want a starting ratio for VTA with a 17.5. They run eight minutes so I cant gear for five.
About this 21.5 business. Since I know of a track that is running open 21.5 motors. I will report to see how the Novaks are holding up against the others.
About this 21.5 business. Since I know of a track that is running open 21.5 motors. I will report to see how the Novaks are holding up against the others.
11-13-2008, 11:42 AM
#3214
Oh yeah it was 64 pitch. Im at work so I dont have the car. I will let you know what pinion is, if that still matters. I just want a starting ratio for VTA with a 17.5. They run eight minutes so I cant gear for five.
About this 21.5 business. Since I know of a track that is running open 21.5 motors. I will report to see how the Novaks are holding up against the others.
About this 21.5 business. Since I know of a track that is running open 21.5 motors. I will report to see how the Novaks are holding up against the others.
11-13-2008, 12:02 PM
#3215
Wow. I can't believe you wrote all that up! That's a great contribution to the community.
Ironically, I went through a similar process just last night to determine how to gear my Tamiya TB-02 to 4.2-4.6 FDR with 64p gears for USVTA 21.5/lipo. The TB-02 motor mount isn't slotted -- you only get 4 choices of motor position. I had to calculate the stock pitch diameters (not the overall gear diameters) and then work backwards to come up with a 64p combo that would not only fit, but mesh properly and also yield the FDR I want. I came up with a combo that should work perfectly and ordered the spur and pinion I need, so we'll see in a few days if it was worth getting that mechanical engineering degree or not...
Ironically, I went through a similar process just last night to determine how to gear my Tamiya TB-02 to 4.2-4.6 FDR with 64p gears for USVTA 21.5/lipo. The TB-02 motor mount isn't slotted -- you only get 4 choices of motor position. I had to calculate the stock pitch diameters (not the overall gear diameters) and then work backwards to come up with a 64p combo that would not only fit, but mesh properly and also yield the FDR I want. I came up with a combo that should work perfectly and ordered the spur and pinion I need, so we'll see in a few days if it was worth getting that mechanical engineering degree or not...
No math involved- priceless.
11-13-2008, 12:46 PM
#3217
That VTA car is sort of a blend of several cars/themes from the past. The color is really close to Grabber Orange, one of my favorite colors for Mustangs both old and new. The black hood with "Super Snake" stripe style is lifted from the "Terlingua Racing Team" '67 Mustang coupes Shelby prepared for T/A racing in '67-'68. Then of course it's all on a '65 Shelby body -- the original race-bred Mustang. The '65 R-Model Shelbys had no chrome bumpers, so just painting those areas body color was as close as I could get to that look.
The second is, Do you race it like that? The reason I ask is because its still shiny. Maybe you just got a lot of pictures of it before you raced and thats what Im seeing. I just cant keep my car looking that good after three or four races, I usually have a big dent or gash some where.
11-13-2008, 01:36 PM
#3218
Trying to get my son's car finalized for this weekend.
Just practice no racing, what FDR would you recommend for a 6 year olds first time on a indoor track? 27t/4cell.
I should mention he's been driving a Slash all summer so he's gotten pretty good, just never had to keep in between the boards before.
Just practice no racing, what FDR would you recommend for a 6 year olds first time on a indoor track? 27t/4cell.
I should mention he's been driving a Slash all summer so he's gotten pretty good, just never had to keep in between the boards before.
11-13-2008, 02:28 PM
#3219
Trying to get my son's car finalized for this weekend.
Just practice no racing, what FDR would you recommend for a 6 year olds first time on a indoor track? 27t/4cell.
I should mention he's been driving a Slash all summer so he's gotten pretty good, just never had to keep in between the boards before.
Just practice no racing, what FDR would you recommend for a 6 year olds first time on a indoor track? 27t/4cell.
I should mention he's been driving a Slash all summer so he's gotten pretty good, just never had to keep in between the boards before.
11-13-2008, 03:47 PM
#3221
There's this one for $85:
Associated/LRP Brushless ESC
It doesn't seem to have a lipo cutoff, but with the runtimes you'll get with the 21.5 I wouldn't even begin to worry about it. When the car starts to slow (probably after 30+ minutes) just shut it off and you'll be well above 6V. Even if you add an external cutoff like the Smart Stop you'll still be ahead of the game, money-wise.
I'm sure it's not the highest-performance ESC out there so you'll probably be giving away something there, but it's cheap and will get you in the game. I'd bet if you crank the motor timing you won't be that far off.
Associated/LRP Brushless ESC
It doesn't seem to have a lipo cutoff, but with the runtimes you'll get with the 21.5 I wouldn't even begin to worry about it. When the car starts to slow (probably after 30+ minutes) just shut it off and you'll be well above 6V. Even if you add an external cutoff like the Smart Stop you'll still be ahead of the game, money-wise.
I'm sure it's not the highest-performance ESC out there so you'll probably be giving away something there, but it's cheap and will get you in the game. I'd bet if you crank the motor timing you won't be that far off.
http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/lrp_anle...-070213-fv.pdf
It does have a LiPo cutoff, and a way to disable it for 4-cell use.
It is a reversing speed control, with no way to lock out reverse. The lack of reverse lock-out means that you cannot dial in any brake at neutral (drag brake). Some people might not care about that, but I would never try to race a brushless ESC that did not allow the possibility of drag brake. Brushless motors have very little natural braking action, so with this ESC you'll either have to use push brakes all the time (not just when you need a lot of brakes), or you'll have to set up the car to not use brakes (e.g. using a one-way).
11-13-2008, 04:00 PM
#3222
I just read the manual for this ESC:
http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/lrp_anle...-070213-fv.pdf
It does have a LiPo cutoff, and a way to disable it for 4-cell use.
It is a reversing speed control, with no way to lock out reverse. The lack of reverse lock-out means that you cannot dial in any brake at neutral (drag brake). Some people might not care about that, but I would never try to race a brushless ESC that did not allow the possibility of drag brake. Brushless motors have very little natural braking action, so with this ESC you'll either have to use push brakes all the time (not just when you need a lot of brakes), or you'll have to set up the car to not use brakes (e.g. using a one-way).
http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/lrp_anle...-070213-fv.pdf
It does have a LiPo cutoff, and a way to disable it for 4-cell use.
It is a reversing speed control, with no way to lock out reverse. The lack of reverse lock-out means that you cannot dial in any brake at neutral (drag brake). Some people might not care about that, but I would never try to race a brushless ESC that did not allow the possibility of drag brake. Brushless motors have very little natural braking action, so with this ESC you'll either have to use push brakes all the time (not just when you need a lot of brakes), or you'll have to set up the car to not use brakes (e.g. using a one-way).
