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Old 11-13-2008, 12:24 PM   #3211
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Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
John,
You must have alot of time on your hands. LOL!!!

I did not see anything about Broken In Tires, a nicely used set will grow a couple mm as they get used. That will help on the gear ratio too.

When are you going to be racing again(T/A and F1)?
Dave
This Sunday may be out. It depends on security scans being done starting tomorrow. If we finish up by Sunday, I'll be there. If not, I'll be an observer towards the end of the day.

Here's what the other side looks like:

if you change the Tire diameter (if you have a caliper with), Rollout changes.


Tire Diameter Tire Diameter Rollout Rollout
Inches Millimeters in Inches in Millimeters

2.600 66.000 1.802 45.755
2.600 66.000 1.848 46.899
2.600 66.000 1.893 48.043
2.600 66.000 1.938 49.186
2.600 66.000 1.983 50.330
2.600 66.000 2.028 51.474
2.600 66.000 2.073 52.618
2.600 66.000 2.118 53.762
2.600 66.000 2.163 54.906
2.600 66.000 2.208 56.050
2.600 66.000 2.253 57.194
2.600 66.000 2.298 58.337
2.600 66.000 2.343 59.481
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:25 PM   #3212
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
Wow.

I just went for a combo that I thought would work and then tried to stick it on there. I just need to go up on both of my gears, evenly. Then experiment from there.
I did that too. Went way small, got upset with myself for wasting cash and started my spreadsheet.
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:37 PM   #3213
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Oh yeah it was 64 pitch. Im at work so I dont have the car. I will let you know what pinion is, if that still matters. I just want a starting ratio for VTA with a 17.5. They run eight minutes so I cant gear for five.

About this 21.5 business. Since I know of a track that is running open 21.5 motors. I will report to see how the Novaks are holding up against the others.
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:42 PM   #3214
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Oh yeah it was 64 pitch. Im at work so I dont have the car. I will let you know what pinion is, if that still matters. I just want a starting ratio for VTA with a 17.5. They run eight minutes so I cant gear for five.

About this 21.5 business. Since I know of a track that is running open 21.5 motors. I will report to see how the Novaks are holding up against the others.
Send it along when you have it. Not a problem. My cars go to 21.5s soon too. A little birdy told me Mr. UPS just dropped a package at my door.
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:02 PM   #3215
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Wow. I can't believe you wrote all that up! That's a great contribution to the community.

Ironically, I went through a similar process just last night to determine how to gear my Tamiya TB-02 to 4.2-4.6 FDR with 64p gears for USVTA 21.5/lipo. The TB-02 motor mount isn't slotted -- you only get 4 choices of motor position. I had to calculate the stock pitch diameters (not the overall gear diameters) and then work backwards to come up with a 64p combo that would not only fit, but mesh properly and also yield the FDR I want. I came up with a combo that should work perfectly and ordered the spur and pinion I need, so we'll see in a few days if it was worth getting that mechanical engineering degree or not...
Shady tree degree = take motor mount, remove all material inbetween the holes- slotted motor mount.

No math involved- priceless.
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:19 PM   #3216
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Shady tree degree = take motor mount, remove all material inbetween the holes- slotted motor mount.

No math involved- priceless.
Dr. Dremel is in the house!
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:46 PM   #3217
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Reen I have a couple of questions for you.

The first question is does your real Mustang look like your VTA car?
Actually, I'm in-between personal Mustangs right now as I recently sold my '66 and haven't decided what I want to do next yet. I'm more than busy building a '68 fastback for a customer so I don't really have time to even think of it right now.

That VTA car is sort of a blend of several cars/themes from the past. The color is really close to Grabber Orange, one of my favorite colors for Mustangs both old and new. The black hood with "Super Snake" stripe style is lifted from the "Terlingua Racing Team" '67 Mustang coupes Shelby prepared for T/A racing in '67-'68. Then of course it's all on a '65 Shelby body -- the original race-bred Mustang. The '65 R-Model Shelbys had no chrome bumpers, so just painting those areas body color was as close as I could get to that look.

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The second is, Do you race it like that? The reason I ask is because its still shiny. Maybe you just got a lot of pictures of it before you raced and thats what Im seeing. I just cant keep my car looking that good after three or four races, I usually have a big dent or gash some where.
God no. I took those pics before the car ever turned a lap in anger. That body is still raced every other weekend, but it's pretty hammered. Donuts all down the sides, black scuffs on the roof, and a ton of tape and shoe goo inside of the nose. It actually looks even cooler that way -- I should take some new pics.
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:36 PM   #3218
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Trying to get my son's car finalized for this weekend.

Just practice no racing, what FDR would you recommend for a 6 year olds first time on a indoor track? 27t/4cell.

I should mention he's been driving a Slash all summer so he's gotten pretty good, just never had to keep in between the boards before.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:28 PM   #3219
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Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
Trying to get my son's car finalized for this weekend.

Just practice no racing, what FDR would you recommend for a 6 year olds first time on a indoor track? 27t/4cell.

I should mention he's been driving a Slash all summer so he's gotten pretty good, just never had to keep in between the boards before.
If you got a decent radio I'd just dail the TH down...depends on how the kid is driving... mine's either 25% or 100% trigger and I adjusted the radio to better suit his 'style' lol.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:27 PM   #3220
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
Donuts all down the sides, black scuffs on the roof, and a ton of tape and shoe goo inside of the nose. It actually looks even cooler that way -- I should take some new pics.
Im there. Theres something about authentic battle scars that adds to the respect of the car. I do love that grabber Orange though. That whole paint scheme in general.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:47 PM   #3221
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
There's this one for $85:

Associated/LRP Brushless ESC

It doesn't seem to have a lipo cutoff, but with the runtimes you'll get with the 21.5 I wouldn't even begin to worry about it. When the car starts to slow (probably after 30+ minutes) just shut it off and you'll be well above 6V. Even if you add an external cutoff like the Smart Stop you'll still be ahead of the game, money-wise.

I'm sure it's not the highest-performance ESC out there so you'll probably be giving away something there, but it's cheap and will get you in the game. I'd bet if you crank the motor timing you won't be that far off.
I just read the manual for this ESC:

http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/lrp_anle...-070213-fv.pdf

It does have a LiPo cutoff, and a way to disable it for 4-cell use.

It is a reversing speed control, with no way to lock out reverse. The lack of reverse lock-out means that you cannot dial in any brake at neutral (drag brake). Some people might not care about that, but I would never try to race a brushless ESC that did not allow the possibility of drag brake. Brushless motors have very little natural braking action, so with this ESC you'll either have to use push brakes all the time (not just when you need a lot of brakes), or you'll have to set up the car to not use brakes (e.g. using a one-way).
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:00 PM   #3222
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I just read the manual for this ESC:

http://www.lrp.cc/fileadmin/lrp_anle...-070213-fv.pdf

It does have a LiPo cutoff, and a way to disable it for 4-cell use.

It is a reversing speed control, with no way to lock out reverse. The lack of reverse lock-out means that you cannot dial in any brake at neutral (drag brake). Some people might not care about that, but I would never try to race a brushless ESC that did not allow the possibility of drag brake. Brushless motors have very little natural braking action, so with this ESC you'll either have to use push brakes all the time (not just when you need a lot of brakes), or you'll have to set up the car to not use brakes (e.g. using a one-way).
Huh. That blows that you can't turn reverse off -- even the cheapest ESCs I've had allow you to do this. That's a deal-breaker for me as I always manage to trigger reverse by accident when I have it. I guess I sometimes "pump the brakes"
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:30 PM   #3223
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yeah thats a deal breaker here too.
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:33 PM   #3224
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you can try the novak XBR or the havok. I think the XBR was discontinued for the havok though. The Havok has reverse disable and voltage cutoff.
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:38 PM   #3225
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If you are looking for a deal there are a lot of GTB's around and theres nothing wrong with them. They just dont have that many advanced features.
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