Hpi Pro 4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Is this normal wear on the square alum drive cups? I got it new, raced it once with 23t. This wear only happened on the rear, the front still looks new
Originally Posted by work
Is this normal wear on the square alum drive cups? I got it new, raced it once with 23t. This wear only happened on the rear, the front still looks new
The motor turns the spur gear and the spur gear turns your cup, the load is then applied to the rear cup into the shaft and the front diff.. the wear is at its heaviest when the front wheels are turned (steeering) and when throttle is applied simultaneously...
Since the speed of rotation of the front and rear differentials differ during turning, much of the load is then applied to the rear cup because most of the power comes from the spur gear... A slight slack can also add to this wear.
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Kick-ass... thanks for the advice..
Also, i have the 1.1, wondering if it's worthwhile swapping the input shafts over to a 1-piece unit. (I have alu units in but it's a shaft only)
There is a lot of kick-back in the system from the number of pins needed to keep the bevel gears on, the spur adaptor etc..
There's a one-piece spur adaptor-input shaft, and there's a 1-piece alu bevel gear shaft. Has anyone used these? (i think they're standard on the hara ed.)
Worth the upgrade?
Cheers guys..
Also, i have the 1.1, wondering if it's worthwhile swapping the input shafts over to a 1-piece unit. (I have alu units in but it's a shaft only)
There is a lot of kick-back in the system from the number of pins needed to keep the bevel gears on, the spur adaptor etc..
There's a one-piece spur adaptor-input shaft, and there's a 1-piece alu bevel gear shaft. Has anyone used these? (i think they're standard on the hara ed.)
Worth the upgrade?
Cheers guys..
the 2005 edition (japan) comes with silver input shafts that have integrated bevel gears. the rear shaft does NOT have integrated spur gear adapter, so it uses the reg spur gear adapter plate.
both hara and 2005 shafts are alum.
the purple shafts on the hara car have ALWAYS been availabe for the pro4 as a hopup.
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now which one to use?
if you're going through front bevel gears a lot you MAY want to get the front alum bevel gear. this will keep that gear from braking, but may cause you to go through diff gears
in the rear there seems to be NO reason to use the alum bevel gear. so using the purple hara shaft is a better idea. not to mention the spur gear mounting plate is integrated on the purple shaft so its a win win.
the alum bevel shafts are avail individually, however the purple shafts are sold only as a set.
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furthermore aftermarket companies (TiR & Square) sell titanium front input shafts, which should be lighter than the purple alum part.
Originally Posted by work
Is this normal wear on the square alum drive cups? I got it new, raced it once with 23t. This wear only happened on the rear, the front still looks new
first off LUBE YOUR CENTER SHAFT. this is FAR less critical then dogbones (which see more angular movement), but still helps out some.
i'm really not sure why your cups are wearing so much. it must be that your shaft pins do not fit so well, or something. that is very wierd considering my experience with the drive cups.
are your drive cups HPI or some other brand?
and im not clear, but you say that much wear happened after only ONE race day? the cups had no wear prior to that?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Ahhhh....
i was just hoping to get rid of some of the slop! there seems to be a decent about of wind-up before all the seperate transmission parts are torqued enough for the car to launch. I put it down to the number of pins used to keep the gears and adaptors on the shafts. (I can only assume this gets worse with wear)
Using either the one-piece spur adaptor-shaft or the alu bevel gear shafts would eliminate some pins... and using the alu drive cups should eliminate any further slop from an ill-fitting plastic centre drive cup.
The only "free" pin would then be the spur adaptor... but a single pin versus 5 is a good reduction.
N.B my outdrives are in good condition, as are my cvd's and diffs so hopeuflly i've got all bases covered!
Wow.. those centre cups wear fast! You sure that's normal! kinda scary... my stock ones although not really true to the centre of the shaft show jack all wear and tear. Must be that they can flex and absorb some force?
i was just hoping to get rid of some of the slop! there seems to be a decent about of wind-up before all the seperate transmission parts are torqued enough for the car to launch. I put it down to the number of pins used to keep the gears and adaptors on the shafts. (I can only assume this gets worse with wear)
Using either the one-piece spur adaptor-shaft or the alu bevel gear shafts would eliminate some pins... and using the alu drive cups should eliminate any further slop from an ill-fitting plastic centre drive cup.
The only "free" pin would then be the spur adaptor... but a single pin versus 5 is a good reduction.
N.B my outdrives are in good condition, as are my cvd's and diffs so hopeuflly i've got all bases covered!
Wow.. those centre cups wear fast! You sure that's normal! kinda scary... my stock ones although not really true to the centre of the shaft show jack all wear and tear. Must be that they can flex and absorb some force?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Dongskie
WORK: Normally yes... why? basically because of the law of physics apply.
The motor turns the spur gear and the spur gear turns your cup, the load is then applied to the rear cup into the shaft and the front diff.. the wear is at its heaviest when the front wheels are turned (steeering) and when throttle is applied simultaneously...
Since the speed of rotation of the front and rear differentials differ during turning, much of the load is then applied to the rear cup because most of the power comes from the spur gear... A slight slack can also add to this wear.
The motor turns the spur gear and the spur gear turns your cup, the load is then applied to the rear cup into the shaft and the front diff.. the wear is at its heaviest when the front wheels are turned (steeering) and when throttle is applied simultaneously...
Since the speed of rotation of the front and rear differentials differ during turning, much of the load is then applied to the rear cup because most of the power comes from the spur gear... A slight slack can also add to this wear.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by floodo1
in my experience with the alum center drive cups i have NOT seen that much wear. i run 19t almost exclusively (D5 19t arm, handwound 24deg timing). i also use kit alum center shaft.
first off LUBE YOUR CENTER SHAFT. this is FAR less critical then dogbones (which see more angular movement), but still helps out some.
i'm really not sure why your cups are wearing so much. it must be that your shaft pins do not fit so well, or something. that is very wierd considering my experience with the drive cups.
are your drive cups HPI or some other brand?
and im not clear, but you say that much wear happened after only ONE race day? the cups had no wear prior to that?
first off LUBE YOUR CENTER SHAFT. this is FAR less critical then dogbones (which see more angular movement), but still helps out some.
i'm really not sure why your cups are wearing so much. it must be that your shaft pins do not fit so well, or something. that is very wierd considering my experience with the drive cups.
are your drive cups HPI or some other brand?
and im not clear, but you say that much wear happened after only ONE race day? the cups had no wear prior to that?
Does HPI have the alum drive cups? I got the Square brand cause I had no problems with any of their products before. Maybe its made of softer material compared to the HPI. Any thoughts
Yup only one race. Everything was brand new except for the graphite shaft.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
Wow.. those centre cups wear fast! You sure that's normal! kinda scary... my stock ones although not really true to the centre of the shaft show jack all wear and tear. Must be that they can flex and absorb some force?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
you're using the "Square" units huh...
Those were the one's i was going to order preferrentially over the HPi units because they have 4 cutouts. I figured if they wore i'd do a flip and they'd be good again.
Actually, to be honest i thought they mix flex a little more than the hpi units (only two cutouts and more solid looking - heavier too i believe) and maybe lessen the wear.
might hold off until soemone with experience of the HPI units gives us some feedback!
Those were the one's i was going to order preferrentially over the HPi units because they have 4 cutouts. I figured if they wore i'd do a flip and they'd be good again.
Actually, to be honest i thought they mix flex a little more than the hpi units (only two cutouts and more solid looking - heavier too i believe) and maybe lessen the wear.
might hold off until soemone with experience of the HPI units gives us some feedback!
i have the actual HPI units. they also have 4 cutouts...2 positions.
perhaps the square units are of a softer material. not really sure.
thats an odd problem man, good luck, looks like you'll need it
perhaps the square units are of a softer material. not really sure.
thats an odd problem man, good luck, looks like you'll need it
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Pro4 was fast last night..
Originally Posted by xxxkat
Pro4 was fast last night..
hahah nice that i finally have a setup that works decently got rid of all but the slowest speed oversteer!
yay for one-ways
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
oneway with foam
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by floodo1
yeah pro4 can even beat ppl on foams sometimes
hahah nice that i finally have a setup that works decently got rid of all but the slowest speed oversteer!
yay for one-ways
hahah nice that i finally have a setup that works decently got rid of all but the slowest speed oversteer!
yay for one-ways
Originally Posted by fjm9898
oneway with foam