RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

I like either the Aero 2 or the Mazda 6. both handle very well, much better than the stratus 2.0

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I already butchered mine...mounted the top hole in the lower mounting position on the diff housing...still will not work....

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

per the pro4 instructions...thrust bearings and spring on one side.
is there another way they go together?

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

I was thinking about assembling my diff with the AE parts like they have with their steel outdrive diffs: Thrust bearing on one side, spring and nut on the other. Like the way they have it in their b4/t4....I've NEVER understood why AE, yokomo and HPI all got away from this placement of the diff parts. This new design never seems to hold its settings without some serious tightning.... Perhaps Erik S. can provide some insight????

I think I may have to relocate the thrust bearing to the other other outdrive, but I think this may be the solution to the loose diffs that many are experiencing.....Will build one tonight and try on saturday....

Buddha

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Keeping the beautiful chassis from scraping on the asphalt, arrrggghhhh! I don't know... maybe, trying to drive w/ a one-way and not hitting anything that will strip the input gears! To be honest, I only had this problem when I went outdoors w/ PVC and a hot mod motor in the car.

azenis

I guess some tape underneath will help there?

Quote:

I don't know... maybe, trying to drive w/ a one-way and not hitting anything that will strip the input gears! To be honest, I only had this problem when I went outdoors w/ PVC and a hot mod motor in the car.

Yeah... Car I am looking at has a ball diff for the front as well. I will use my TA04 for drifting with PVC or are you using PVC to lay out a track?

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Zombies,

Here's the diagram for the tc3, which has an exploded view of the way I just built my spare diff:

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...rawing_tc3.pdf

I JUST put my spare diff together like the diagram shows, so I'll test it this weekend....

Buddha

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I was referring to the track boarders being PVC. It's pretty easy to break, strip or mangle any internals in a touring car, moving at speeds of 30 - 40 mph.

azenis

i guess with a shaft drive you "may" not have the protection of a belts "give" so something will crunch... do people find that durability is better with a ball diff in the front?
We use planks to do our layout, thin bits of wood that look a bit like ripple strips, car usually just goes over the top of them, though a new model park is being built and i dont know what method will be used there...

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

The "Diff action" of the ball diff unloades power / force to the other wheel, moving forward or backward, eliminating the stripping of the gears. Using a one-way (the bearing turning in one direction only) doesn't allow the force from a crash to go anywhere - except to the drivetrain, where the gears are! So, the gears are virtually impossible to strip with a ball diff.

azenis

brilliant!! Just what I needed to hear

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Glad I could help. Off to bed I go. My eyes are burning. See ya'!

azenis

Cos I have found a 2nd hand one for sale, has both one way and a ball diff for the front.
So this is good - id rather a ball diff on our tracks anyhow as sometimes you need BRAKES

Do you have any other problems with it? Cos I am still deciding between the pro4 and xray (but i really dont want belt if i can avoid it as we get too much debris on the track that gets in the belts and pulleys on my ta04)

racer

rc-zombies, rcbuddha

Thanks you both for the input on which shell better

time to get an M6!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

ahh..IC.... that's what I thought... thanks! when I had my TC3 never did have a problem with the diffs coming loose...may have to take the car apart again and redo the diffs...