JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Yes that is correct

TRF415boy

You do know that the C block gives hinge pins heights 1mm above the 1-C block right ?

So you've been running 1mm of anti-dive up front.

To get the same amount, you need 2mm under your split blocks.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Even with a 5mm spacer under the 1c it's still 1mm of antidive? This adjustment is new to me I have never messed with it before. I just set the car the way it was when I purchased it used. It came with the c/c up front and the rear flipped c block had a 5mm and 3mm spacer under it.

TRF415boy

Yes it is only 1mm because of the C block up front.

As a guideline:

The blocks with a "1-" in front of the letter are the standard 415/416 blocks. The ones in Itallic bold etching are the 416 ones, whilst the simpler ones are from the 415.

The blocks with only the letter are from the TB-Evo series. These will raise the hinge pin by 1mm compared to the 415/416 blocks. So if you use one of them, it's like having 1mm under a 416 block.

Now when you flip the blocks over (for belt clearance), you need to add 5mm on the 415 blocks and 3mm to the 416 blocks to get the same height as the 416 non-flipped block with no spacer.

What you're running is the following:

C block = 1-C + 1mm
Flipped 1-C + 5mm = non-flipped 1-C + 2mm

Making it a 1mm difference.

People seem to be running only 0.5mm anti dive though on the 416.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Ok, that makes sense. So with the split blocks what should I have on there? It looks to be equal to the flipped c block with a 5mm and 3mm shim under it, using the ol calibrated eyeball.

TRF415boy

No they're the same as normal non flipped 416 blocks. So to get the same anti-dive you need 2mm as I said earlier on.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Ok thank you for the education. I'll try to put it to good use.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

really ???

i have 0.5 mm on the front block and 1mm on the rear split blocks

does this not give me 0.5mm of anti dive still ??

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

thats correct phil

JCarr.

You say with a 3mm and 5mm spacer? Exactly what spacers where were, cause it sounds like your using a lot of spacers in there!!

If you've got the manual, have a look at the front end build. An italic outlined 1C should go on flat on the chassis, whilst an italic outlined 1C should be flipped with 3mm spacers in the rear position.
This gives flat hinge pins, and 0° anti-dive.

Cheers
Ed

veecee

iTrader: (34)

Best to post some pics if you could JCarr.

TRF415boy

As I said, his setup has fairly high RC.

1mm at the front front and 2mm at the front rear, which means 1mm anti dive.

If he likes the car this way I don't see what's wrong, we don't know the track conditions so it's hard to comment.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the help guys, I was wrong on my shim sizes and the bridges. They were 1c/1c originally and I switched to the bold 1c in the rear. With the old 1c I had a 3mm and 2mm shim in there for a total of 5mm and with the bold 1c I only had 3mm under it. So, I had the set up you were first describing. The car has been handling great for me on rubber on our outdoor asphalt track, but now we are headed in to carpet. So if I have this right, with the split blocks I need to put 1.5 shims under them to get the .5mm of antidive?

Thanks again

TRF415boy

nope if you have 1-C at the very front with no shim, you only need 0.5mm under your split blocks to get 0.5mm anti dive.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Thanks alot, I'm getting a grasp on this stuff now. Thank you guys for taking the time to work with me on this.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

i want to replace the 5mm ball joints on my TRF but i want to use either steel or Flurine coate ones , just to stop the wear

does any one have a part number for them ??

both the nut type and the screw type