Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#7081
#7082

I can see all Tamiya Guys using Short arms with 1mm spacers so Whats the point to using them?
how about Normal 416 Arms with no spacers? is that good enough with D/D blocks or Short arms must have?
Cheers
how about Normal 416 Arms with no spacers? is that good enough with D/D blocks or Short arms must have?
Cheers
#7084

On another point, I've said this before, I still don't see the massive benefit of flipping the drivetrain, as the two heaviest components can't be moved (motor, steering). Fair enough the speedo can be moved in, but if your using one with a fan, you'll struggle to get it under the top deck, and you can move it in that far anyway, without flipping.
So that leaves the reciever... and really is a 7g reciever going to make a huge difference, especially as it's reducing the lever effect. IMO, is it worth it? No
So that leaves the reciever... and really is a 7g reciever going to make a huge difference, especially as it's reducing the lever effect. IMO, is it worth it? No

Last edited by TryHard; 11-15-2009 at 11:51 AM.
#7085

CraigM,
You have a PM.
You have a PM.
#7086
#7087

you will need 1C or 1D front suspension blocks
1X or 1XA rear front blocks and 1E or 1D rear rear blocks
this widens the car again slightly
you may also need differant length driveshafts depending on what you have already
i use 46 front(when using 1D 1D) 44mm (when using 1C 1C) and 42 rear
1X or 1XA rear front blocks and 1E or 1D rear rear blocks
this widens the car again slightly
you may also need differant length driveshafts depending on what you have already
i use 46 front(when using 1D 1D) 44mm (when using 1C 1C) and 42 rear
#7088

cheers mate
that's my plan when I got my blocks, D-D front 1xa-E rear 3degrees
not sure about front shafts 46 or 44 with spool but seems like 46 better...
as I've mentioned before I hate twitchy cars Xray is so easy to drive I do hope 416 work as good as xray because one of my friend now switched to xray and thinks small inputs on steering makes big impacts on 416 compared to xray and I should be very smooth...
that's my plan when I got my blocks, D-D front 1xa-E rear 3degrees
not sure about front shafts 46 or 44 with spool but seems like 46 better...
as I've mentioned before I hate twitchy cars Xray is so easy to drive I do hope 416 work as good as xray because one of my friend now switched to xray and thinks small inputs on steering makes big impacts on 416 compared to xray and I should be very smooth...
#7089

I flipped the drivetrain, changed the outside servoholder to the inside so servo moved about 8mm more inward. I think Iīll put it like in yokomo, only one holder and servotape under it so no need for outside servoholder. Speedo and receiver moved also almost 10mm more inward. Lipo moved about 8mm out. For holding battery I have weights that go into battery slots and Iīll glue those to the battery. Now I have 56g weight under battery and thatīs the only weights I have in my car. I think that left rear will be a lot heavier than others if i could check the corner weights. Hopefully itīs not a too big problem.
With these big diameter Xenon tires diffs up seems to be the best option to have to get the driveshafts runing more lined up, so clearance to the chassis is not a problem. I think there will be enough gap even when running diffs low. There is also a possibility that rear diff will come loose as it is running another direction from what it is designed for, hopefully it wonīt..
Picture after the mod
Iīm really looking forward to test my car in this setup.
#7090

I can see you've cut your Top deck both on front and rear ...
Could you Please tell us how does your car feels??
Cheers
Could you Please tell us how does your car feels??
Cheers
#7091
#7092

I clearly rear point but not sure the Front
you cut the Front link also where the screw hole is thats right isnt it?
Thanx for the info
you cut the Front link also where the screw hole is thats right isnt it?
Thanx for the info
#7093
#7095