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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 10-24-2009, 02:19 AM
  #6916  
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Originally Posted by chrisk
Brad

just curious of the weight of these trays?

how do they compare to other trays like the bitty design, not sure if you have used others or anyone else that are using the demon type.

The bitty design helps with the weight
I previously used the Bitty offset lipo tray, and you can see that the Demon lipo tray hangs the lipo out the same amount. The Demon tray is slightly heavier but better since the lipo sits flush with the bottom deck. The only potential problem is the Demon tray sits the lipo more forward on the original 416 since the battery slots are more forward on the 416WE, which may affect the feel.

Last edited by miccal; 06-09-2014 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:54 AM
  #6917  
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Thanks for the pics miccal. That tray is the nuts!
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Old 10-24-2009, 07:51 AM
  #6918  
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Man, that tray is dialed!
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:38 AM
  #6919  
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I just hope it fits the 416X which I have already pre-ordered!
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:17 PM
  #6920  
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Thanks Miccal for the pics

I hope berscoe gets some more ill sure be grabbing one
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Old 10-25-2009, 02:31 AM
  #6921  
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Just got myself a 2nd hand 416. I'm really excited at the idea of running a TRF again
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:42 AM
  #6922  
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Hey Sidecarphil, did you get your roll problem figured out?? Just curious.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:23 AM
  #6923  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Hey Sidecarphil, did you get your roll problem figured out?? Just curious.
yes mate i did
i used this set up from Ed Clark (PS Cheers )
and a little superglue on the edges of the front tyres


i decided not to sell the TRF as i am still learning this car and when i feel i am a better driver then the car then i buy a new one
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:24 AM
  #6924  
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sorry the set up sheet is so big , i dont know how to make it smaller
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:35 AM
  #6925  
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I read others had roll issues as well and solved it with the tire glueing, as well as changing droop from 6/5 to 7/6 and even going to wider front hex adapters. Just something to keep in mind for next time.
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:36 AM
  #6926  
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Ok I'm cornfused. I just got some of the split suspension blocks for my 416. I had 1c/1c on the car and the split block I got was the 1c-1xc. On the original block I had a 5mm and 3mm spacer. Just by putting the two piece unit on the chassis it looks like it's already at that same hight, does that sound correct to you guys that have swapped to the two piece blocks already?

TIA
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:43 AM
  #6927  
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i fitted mine no problem

dont use the "factory" spacers , only use your own spacers you use for anti dive or raising your roll centre

mine are 0.5mm off the chassis plate , that is all
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:52 AM
  #6928  
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Originally Posted by JCarr
Ok I'm cornfused. I just got some of the split suspension blocks for my 416. I had 1c/1c on the car and the split block I got was the 1c-1xc. On the original block I had a 5mm and 3mm spacer. Just by putting the two piece unit on the chassis it looks like it's already at that same hight, does that sound correct to you guys that have swapped to the two piece blocks already?

TIA
They are either 1-C or 1-XC depending on which way around you put them. If you look at them you'll see that the bore for the hinge pin isn't centered with regards to the two mounting holes (unless you look at the X one which IS symmetrical). So if you put the offset towards the inside of the car, you'll have XC, if you put the offset towards the outside of the car you'll have C.

as for the spacing, they are at the same height as non flipped blocks. flipped blocks require either 3mm or 5mm (depending on which ones you have) to make it the same height as non flipped blocks.

hope this clears it all.

BTW will give my 416 its first run on friday
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:25 AM
  #6929  
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
They are either 1-C or 1-XC depending on which way around you put them. If you look at them you'll see that the bore for the hinge pin isn't centered with regards to the two mounting holes (unless you look at the X one which IS symmetrical). So if you put the offset towards the inside of the car, you'll have XC, if you put the offset towards the outside of the car you'll have C.

as for the spacing, they are at the same height as non flipped blocks. flipped blocks require either 3mm or 5mm (depending on which ones you have) to make it the same height as non flipped blocks.

hope this clears it all.

BTW will give my 416 its first run on friday
Ok, I think I get what you are saying. So in order to get them at the same angle I was at with the flipped block I need to put a 3mm spacer on each screw under each block? I stated it incorrect before, the car had c/c blocks on it originally with the 3mm and 5mm spacers under the flipped block. I then switched to c/1c and the 1c didn't need the 3mm spacer under it, was already built into the block. I'm just trying to achive the same angle I had with the flipped block. Thank for the help.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:36 AM
  #6930  
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Originally Posted by JCarr
Ok, I think I get what you are saying. So in order to get them at the same angle I was at with the flipped block I need to put a 3mm spacer on each screw under each block? I stated it incorrect before, the car had c/c blocks on it originally with the 3mm and 5mm spacers under the flipped block. I then switched to c/1c and the 1c didn't need the 3mm spacer under it, was already built into the block. I'm just trying to achive the same angle I had with the flipped block. Thank for the help.
I take it this is at the front ?

You had a flipped 1-C block with the etching in Itallic and 5mm under it ?

and you're running a C block at the very front?
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