windsor

Going to the linear springs and I was wondering if anyone knows how many spacers go on the kingpin? how many on top and how many between the spindle and upper arm? any help would be wonderful. Thanks!!!

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

3 BMI gold spacers on top and one between the upper arm and spindle. Adjust as necessary to get ~.5mm sag in the front suspension to start out.

mrrcguy

iTrader: (25)

What will this change if Im currently running the stock (4 on top 1 between).
Obviously this will give some sag, but what should I expect to feel on the track?

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

We find the linear spring and its nylon perch are ~0.010" longer in stack height than just an AE front 1/12th spring. Running 3 shims on top and 1 between will give you a comparable sag setting to the old standard spring.

You get more traction and over all steering with a little sag. If you are traction rolling or if your car is twitchy reducing or eliminating the sag would help.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Are you baising this on using the long kingpins or the standard 1/12 kingpin? I ask because I'm using two shins on top, one between and I have spring preload using the standard kingpin.

Chris

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

So of the traction is high, remove the sag in the front springs? I actually built my 12RR with no sag. I'm working off the assembly instructions from the old car, I told Jason to send it with the old instructions cuz I couldn't wait to get my hands on the car.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

SpraydbySprague - Yes thats right.

Chris - What spacers are you running AE silver king pin shims are thicker (.014") than BMI gold shims (.010").

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

I'm using the AE silver ones, I thought thay were .01 and that would account for the difference.

Ty

iTrader: (32)

Building my DB12RR now and the only real snag I have ran into is the Silva HPS2 shock. No matter what I do it has air in it. When I take it apart the bladder is always crushed in as well. Any tips on how to build this little shock without any of that air bubble squidge?

InspGadgt

Ty the bladder is always going to crush somewhat due to the pressure inside the shock. As for getting the air out take your time and build it slowly. When you first start to fill the shock the oil will not flow underneath the piston so you will have a large air gap under the piston. Fill the shock part way with oil then move the piston up through the oil. When you pull the piston back down all the air underneath will come out in bubbles. Give the bubbles time to rise to the top and exit the oil. I'll usually work the piston a few times during this to make sure I got all the air out from under the piston. Then fill the shock the rest of the way and work the piston some more to see if any more air bubbles appear. Once the air bubbles are gone then put on the bladder and shock cap.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Fill the shock body and let it sit so all the air bubbles come up and out. Place the bladder on the shock body. Push the shock shaft in a little and with the shaft still in push the bladder down and pull the shaft down. This will suck the bladder onto the body and keep it there while you screw the cap on.

tellan

Do these upgrades for the 1/12th car now come in the complete kit.Or do you have to buy the old kit and up grades seperately.?????????

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The conversion is for if you have the older car and want to upgrade to the new one. All of the new cars come with all of the latest upgrades.

BBSpence

iTrader: (64)

Business must be good at bmi

schreff

iTrader: (5)

And that's only the small jet. You should see his other one.