nikoskar

ok thank you so much.

pc9840

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Randy.

TeamButter

iTrader: (3)

No problem!!!

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The TRF shocks just have the bladders which makes it a little easier to adjust rebound, once I find the feel that I'm really happy with I'll use the stock shocks and build them to get the same feel.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

No prob, hope you like the setup! If you're ever at BCR feel free to drop by and ask any questions.

stegger

I know you can get a foam chassis but is there or any plans to release a complete foam kit. I don't want to buy a kit and a foam chassisThanks in advance...

kschu

iTrader: (16)

hi randy, i try ur method by cutting d upper deck, i do notice it's make d car more steering/responsive for front!....now my car is oversteer when using d same setting like last time......hahaha....

now i need to find new setting for it....

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I love oversteer

kschu

iTrader: (16)

i read some infos around, it's said oversteer can b cured by putting Tyre Treatment ONLY at d rear Tyres....this will make d car easier to drive....

i haven't test it yet bt will do it on this coming saturday....

I just finished my 1st race of HPI Stock 23t challenge yesterday with my team mate Jayjay....fighting with team Hotbodies...
2 serpent vs 9 Hotbodies....

i came out in 1st position and jayjay in 3rd place..

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Just so the traction feels consistant, I would keep saucing the front tires. You could try saucing less of the tire, maybe the inside 75-80%. A thicker swaybar is also an easy fix to an aggressive car, front kickup, or less sweep in the front arms would be things to try.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

is it front kick up mean put shims below d front toe block ???

how to do less sweep in d the front arm ?


thanks

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Kick up is more shims under the front block, this will make the car less aggressive on corner entry but give a bit more steering coming out of the corner.

Less front sweep would mean rather than running a 3* front block and 1* rear block, you could run 2* on both to make the pins straight and keep the width the same. Or you can experiment with different combinations to find the width and feel that you like.

I run a 2* in front and -.5* in the rear, which is very narrow with a lot of sweep, and .5mm of anti-dive (shim under the rear block) which makes my car very aggressive going into the corners which will help give the little extra edge if you are trying to pass someone close to the same speed as you.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Randy,

I got a few questions for you. You just posted some adjustments that you use for the front of the car, do you try much in the rear of the car? Do you play around with anti-squat or pro-squat. Also what body do you run, do you have a favorite 95% of the time or do you adjust the car by body also?

Thanks,
Steve

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I very rarely run pro-squat anymore, I used to a lot to help the rear of the car stay planted on the corner entry. On my current setup I do run anti-squat, which I feel helps the car rotate a bit better in the corners, but may feel loose on some tracks.

My favorite body is the Mazda 6, seems pretty balanced and has good steering. If the rear end is too planted I will run the Mazdaspeed 6 which is a little twitchier off center, and has a little less rear end traction generally.

patrick

iTrader: (72)

Wow Randy, you really have become quite the answer-man. I have only one question for you; exactly how long have you been an FD?