Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#1456
Hello All
I'll be at the Reedy TC Race of Champions and taking pics. Visit the thread, I'll be posting the pics there, check out the international Yokomo drivers cars.
I'll be at the Reedy TC Race of Champions and taking pics. Visit the thread, I'll be posting the pics there, check out the international Yokomo drivers cars.
#1457
Hey all, I was wondering if anyone had any problems with their tranny. I have an SD as well, and I have heard rumors that there was a problem. LMK. Thanks.
#1458
SD Steering
G'day
Just a question on the steering hubs. I'm just in the process of building and I seem to not be able to screw the king pins in all the way as it is binding the steering arms. The bottom kingpins are basically all the way in and up against the bottom collar. The top pin i've left out about 1.5mm as if I go tighter it binds. Should the kingpins be screwed in all the way and backed off slightly?
Did anyone else have this problem or have I stuffed up somewhere
Thanks
Sam
Just a question on the steering hubs. I'm just in the process of building and I seem to not be able to screw the king pins in all the way as it is binding the steering arms. The bottom kingpins are basically all the way in and up against the bottom collar. The top pin i've left out about 1.5mm as if I go tighter it binds. Should the kingpins be screwed in all the way and backed off slightly?
Did anyone else have this problem or have I stuffed up somewhere
Thanks
Sam
#1459
twocan1
i really dont remeber that on my kit.. But i know on other cars i just back it off abit so there is no play and it is free..
B
B
#1460
push out of corners...
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi guys. greetings from Malta.
RANDMAN.
Sorry I couldn't answer earlier about turning servo, but RC ZOMBIES has explained it all. Mine is just the same as his, and it appears you have done it already successfully.
I ran another 5 packs yesterday evening. Lowering the gearing any more resulted in worse lap times, so now I know the best gearing for this track anyway.
I still have more push out of corners than I would like so I am about to try and sort that one out today. I will start with reducing the front droop - the easiest one. If that isn't enough I will try a thicker rear roll bar, and carry on from there, but I would not like to do anything too drastic just yet. I could also play with kick up and antisquat as those are easy ones.
Johnbull,
I had the same problem when i first ran the car, was not quite sure what the problem was. I found out later that my rear diffs came loose after about 4 packs.. tightened it up a little and problem solved. now i have all the steering i want out of corners. I have a 1way up front and i've noticed that if you play/balance the rear diff tightness to the front, you can actually adjust how much (or less) steering you want. Hope this helps....
Would anyone who has had similar problems please suggest simple remedies. By simple I mean without upseting other things. For example I prefer to stick to the same springs and shock oil front and rear if possible and will only go for a spring or oil change as a last resort.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
Hi guys. greetings from Malta.
RANDMAN.
Sorry I couldn't answer earlier about turning servo, but RC ZOMBIES has explained it all. Mine is just the same as his, and it appears you have done it already successfully.
I ran another 5 packs yesterday evening. Lowering the gearing any more resulted in worse lap times, so now I know the best gearing for this track anyway.
I still have more push out of corners than I would like so I am about to try and sort that one out today. I will start with reducing the front droop - the easiest one. If that isn't enough I will try a thicker rear roll bar, and carry on from there, but I would not like to do anything too drastic just yet. I could also play with kick up and antisquat as those are easy ones.
Johnbull,
I had the same problem when i first ran the car, was not quite sure what the problem was. I found out later that my rear diffs came loose after about 4 packs.. tightened it up a little and problem solved. now i have all the steering i want out of corners. I have a 1way up front and i've noticed that if you play/balance the rear diff tightness to the front, you can actually adjust how much (or less) steering you want. Hope this helps....
Would anyone who has had similar problems please suggest simple remedies. By simple I mean without upseting other things. For example I prefer to stick to the same springs and shock oil front and rear if possible and will only go for a spring or oil change as a last resort.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#1461
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
rc_bam226- Mo has had his car for over a month now and I've had mine for a couple of weeks and we've had no problems in the drivetrain area. I personally haven't heard of any problems or rumors.
twocan1- did you follow the instructions and put the spacers on the kingpins? The instructions say to put one of the spacers on the kingpin before you screw it into the bottom and the spacer for the top goes in between the steering block and castor block.
twocan1- did you follow the instructions and put the spacers on the kingpins? The instructions say to put one of the spacers on the kingpin before you screw it into the bottom and the spacer for the top goes in between the steering block and castor block.
#1462
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Just thought I would share pics of my chassis space before and after turning the servo.
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0953_jpg.htm
and
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0956_jpg.htm
I was able to save about 3/8" of space by turning the servo, did it on one of my MR-4TC Pro's, but forgot about it over the years.
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0953_jpg.htm
and
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN0956_jpg.htm
I was able to save about 3/8" of space by turning the servo, did it on one of my MR-4TC Pro's, but forgot about it over the years.
#1463
Randman
Dont you need to mount the servo the other way so the horn is on the other side?. I think the servo horn would hit on the mid brace like that when you turn all the way right. I could me wrong tho.
#1464
Originally posted by Matt Howard
rc_bam226- Mo has had his car for over a month now and I've had mine for a couple of weeks and we've had no problems in the drivetrain area. I personally haven't heard of any problems or rumors.
twocan1- did you follow the instructions and put the spacers on the kingpins? The instructions say to put one of the spacers on the kingpin before you screw it into the bottom and the spacer for the top goes in between the steering block and castor block.
rc_bam226- Mo has had his car for over a month now and I've had mine for a couple of weeks and we've had no problems in the drivetrain area. I personally haven't heard of any problems or rumors.
twocan1- did you follow the instructions and put the spacers on the kingpins? The instructions say to put one of the spacers on the kingpin before you screw it into the bottom and the spacer for the top goes in between the steering block and castor block.
Yep bottom spacer on kingpin before screwing in. Top spacer between hub and steering arm. Mine just seems so tight especially compared to my MR4TC Special. It may loosen up a little !!!
Sam
#1466
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
RANDMAN.
I see you chopped the inner servo mount, leaving it on one, plus double sided tape or something. I did that originally but the servo moved after a good bash so I have now used both servo mounts. If you just use the bottom screw on the inner servo mount it will fit snugly under the centre deck.
I also moved my servo 3mm forward with spacers (ala TC3) and this gave me even more space. I also fitted my servo the other way round so that the turnbucle is longer.
I ran a couple of packs again yesterday trying different droop settings to try and eliminate the push but it was so windy i just couldn't drive so will have to leave it for this evening.
I still feel that the old BD car handles better. I can make the same lap times with both cars simply because the SD has more straight line speed, but it is more of a handful to drive. This evening I will try it again with the longer TC3 shocks and springs that I run on the BD. It just seems so much more reassuring with more travel.
Will let you have results. In the meantime can anyone suggest a place to look for a set up for a long, open and fast asphalt track. But I mean long - 23 second laps where you are approaching the corners at proper high speeds.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
RANDMAN.
I see you chopped the inner servo mount, leaving it on one, plus double sided tape or something. I did that originally but the servo moved after a good bash so I have now used both servo mounts. If you just use the bottom screw on the inner servo mount it will fit snugly under the centre deck.
I also moved my servo 3mm forward with spacers (ala TC3) and this gave me even more space. I also fitted my servo the other way round so that the turnbucle is longer.
I ran a couple of packs again yesterday trying different droop settings to try and eliminate the push but it was so windy i just couldn't drive so will have to leave it for this evening.
I still feel that the old BD car handles better. I can make the same lap times with both cars simply because the SD has more straight line speed, but it is more of a handful to drive. This evening I will try it again with the longer TC3 shocks and springs that I run on the BD. It just seems so much more reassuring with more travel.
Will let you have results. In the meantime can anyone suggest a place to look for a set up for a long, open and fast asphalt track. But I mean long - 23 second laps where you are approaching the corners at proper high speeds.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#1467
R/C Tech Founder
For those of you that are rotating the servo 90 degrees, are you mainly drilling a new hole in the chassis to accomodate the mounts, rather than just taping/gluing it in? I prefer to use the mounts whenever possible.
I haven't really measured out a hole on mine yet, just looking to see how others have done it.
Thanks!
I haven't really measured out a hole on mine yet, just looking to see how others have done it.
Thanks!
#1468
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Originally posted by futureal
For those of you that are rotating the servo 90 degrees, are you mainly drilling a new hole in the chassis to accomodate the mounts, rather than just taping/gluing it in? I prefer to use the mounts whenever possible.
I haven't really measured out a hole on mine yet, just looking to see how others have done it.
Thanks!
For those of you that are rotating the servo 90 degrees, are you mainly drilling a new hole in the chassis to accomodate the mounts, rather than just taping/gluing it in? I prefer to use the mounts whenever possible.
I haven't really measured out a hole on mine yet, just looking to see how others have done it.
Thanks!
#1469
Tech Regular
Gear Ratio for SD:
Can anyone provide the recomended gear ration chart for 8T - 12T motor. which spur is recomended as well? I'm using the Yok-4TCSP-81@48p spur.
Can anyone provide the recomended gear ration chart for 8T - 12T motor. which spur is recomended as well? I'm using the Yok-4TCSP-81@48p spur.
#1470
Is anyone else on the board running the SD on a slippy floor with Schumacher minispike tyres?
I'm still having real problems getting the car to work well when the grip is low, basically it has a tendency to hook the rear around mid corner, and then shake the tail under power. Combined with major understeer, which stops me even getting close to an apex at any kind of speed, it's making tuning the SD really frustrating.
I race at two clubs, one has a grippier floor and the car is much more driveable, the other is slippier and the car is a real handful.
This is using a Monster Stock by the way, so although the car is fast, it isn't stupidly overpowered (same power as the other cars who manage to get traction).
I've tried hard springs and soft springs, stiffer front or stiffer rear, low roll centres and high roll centres, 1 degree camber and 2 degree camber.
Any help - preferably from another slippy floor racer?
I'm ALMOST ready to put my gear back into the Pro 3 - despite its flaws, it always stuck to the track (couldn't get the back end loose!)
I'm still having real problems getting the car to work well when the grip is low, basically it has a tendency to hook the rear around mid corner, and then shake the tail under power. Combined with major understeer, which stops me even getting close to an apex at any kind of speed, it's making tuning the SD really frustrating.
I race at two clubs, one has a grippier floor and the car is much more driveable, the other is slippier and the car is a real handful.
This is using a Monster Stock by the way, so although the car is fast, it isn't stupidly overpowered (same power as the other cars who manage to get traction).
I've tried hard springs and soft springs, stiffer front or stiffer rear, low roll centres and high roll centres, 1 degree camber and 2 degree camber.
Any help - preferably from another slippy floor racer?
I'm ALMOST ready to put my gear back into the Pro 3 - despite its flaws, it always stuck to the track (couldn't get the back end loose!)