Simon K

Yokomo bearings are generally pretty good, the only thing I ever did to mine(MR4 SP) was spray all the grease out of them after a few packs had been put through the car and re-oil with something low friction and light, "Royal oil" in my case.

I expect the same treatment with the new car should work too.

glide 1

i got the japanese ver. of the sd so it came with a oneway. On the suppliment instruction sheet, it says to only put 1 shim befor the large bearing on 1 side of the outdrive. A friend of mine has stripped gears doing this!! When i built mine i shimmed both bearings (did not look at instructions), have'nt stripped a gear yet. Only thing i noticed initially was a little binding but after a few runs, it is very free and most importantly, no sise to side play from the oneway.

YOKOMOSHO

iTrader: (1)

I have found the same problem, glide 1. My car bought down here in Australia is also a jap spec car. I have only put about 5 packs through it so far, but the gears on the front one way are on the way out already. The manual is very specific about only using 1 shim on the right side, which I did. Maybe I will try your accidental discovery. How many runs has yours had without a problem so far?
Keith M.

glide 1

I've been running it like that since i built it, a few days of practising and a weekend of racing using 23t tamiya motors, and so far no problems. Not sure about mod motors if it will have the same broblem as the evo3. i'm crossing fingers I suggest you put the second shim in, just watch out for excesive binding if any. Mine was very slight and as i said it gets very free after a few runs. Good luck.

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

I'm surprised to hear of all the breakages. I have now run almost 30 packs - that's two and a half hours running, and more, including a race meeting.

I did crash very heavily, so heavily I broke the club transponder, yet the only breakage on the car was a front shock tower. I must say I was pleasantly surprised for it was one hell of an impact.

I fitted alloy drive shafts on the car when first building it and have had no problems with drive shafts snapping or anything like that. in fact I feel the car is getting better, quicker and freer with every run, and i'm certainly looking forward to our next race meeting on Sunday, when i hope to clinch the championship.

My only complaint with the SD is it's weight. I would have liked it to be well underweight so that I can move the weight around, like I have done with old faithful (BD car).

With the servo turned through 90 degrees I have managed to fit all the electrics neatly, as well as a fan - necessary in our hot temperatures, and everything is mounted on the deck.

Anyone know of any asphalt set ups?

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

sosidge

Matt H. (and others) - I see from your setup on mo's site that you've played around with the rear roll centre on the car, raising the inner blocks (and adding anti-squat), and putting a spacer on the upper link at the hub. What kind of result have you seen from that? I'll be playing with similar settings myself - I would expect it to make the car break away more smoothly at the limit, with a little more on-power steering.

Also, lots of people seem to have raised the front roll centre in one way or another, either using the lower hole in the front caster block, or changing the position of the spacers on the king pin. Again, what kind of effect is this having? I would expect a smoother, but decreased, steering response.

On a final note, it's reassuring to see that David Goss can win the NORCCA nationals with a virtually standard car, geometry wise. Maybe he's a good driver or something...

DoCoMo

Hi I've run my SD over the weekend and boy car was fast. It was my very first attempt with 19T Motor. I had very bad collision on a straight way but I've only poped a dogbone and I arm. Did not break anything all day.
The only caution is that when you use a upper hole in the front caster block(C Hub), YOU MUST leave a spacer on a king pin just below a steering block so that it stays in high position. I've made mine low and inside of a tire rim just out side of a hexagon fitting made a big gash at a very end of suspention arm. Appear that these will touch when you are turning.
D.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

If I am reading this right, you turned the servo 90 degrees? I was looking for a way to free up space on the chassis (my quantum is about 1mm away from the motor endbell) what do you use to secure the servo, and do you run the linkage to the steering post on the right of left side of the car?

sosidge

DoCoMo - are you using Yokomo wheels (or ones that definitely fit)? The Yoke is quite sensitive to the rims you use, and the wrong ones will foul wishbones. I have a spacer above the steering block, and use the upper hole in the C-hub (as the instructions suggest), and I'm not fouling wheels at any steering angle.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Take a look at what I did to turn the servo 90degrees.

http://groups.msn.com/RCZOMBIES/yoko...to&PhotoID=224

You'll have to drill to holes for the servo arm mounts. The right side no mod is necessary...on the left servo ear...you'll have to cut the upper mount hole off to fit under the middle deck. The linkage to the steering will now be on the left side of the car. You'll have to change it to the 180 arm instead of 90deg. You need about .5-1mm spacer under the servo to gain clearance for the turnbuckle and driveshaft. I used a lowprofile servo the Futaba S9550 digital..you'll gain alot of space for large electronics or adding ballast.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I found them on Ebay...do a search in the RC section for "Killer teflon bearings" I got mine in about a week after I paid..

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

sosidge- I was playing with the spacers under the ballstuds on the hubcarriers all week long for the NORRCA nats. I ran a spool and doing so doesn't let the rear of the car rotate in the corners as well as a diff or front oneway, adding the antisquat and the 1mm spacer under the rear hubcarrier ballstud let rear of the car "free up" off power so I could still make the tight corners. When the track was cool in the morning I went to a 2mm spacer in the rear because the car was tight on a cool track. Putting the 1mm spacer under the front castor block ball stud helped with the off-power turn in as well with a little sacrifice of the onpower steering. But since I was running a spool I didn't need anymore onpower steering.

DoCoMo

No I've used a Take Off CS27 with Pre-Mounted rims. May be it flex more. I'll use another rim(Yokomo) this weekend and see if it touches.
Thanks,
D.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

Matt Howard and Mo, just wanna say, good racing with you guys (or should i say 'chasing you guys) at the NORRCA nats.. And thanks for posting the Goss set-up, ran it at the race and it felt nice...shuld be a nice start for REEDY..

So are the results posted anywhere?...

mo

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Osherman, the results are on www.rcracing.com