Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I've noticed that many of the setup sheets no longer include shock length??? I understand how to adjust droop, but where does shock length enter the equation?

If I make my shock length to short, I'm not able to achieve the droop that I want (6 front/ 7 rear). I adjust droop with the shocks detached from the suspension arms.

Additionally, ride height seems to be directly related to my shock length???

Ride height is very important. On the SD CGM so is droop. What steps do you guys take to arrive at your final ride height and droop.

pops

iTrader: (1)

As long as you can make your shock length long enough to reach any droop you want, shock length is no longer important. On the CGM I run the shocks to start at 63.5 in the front and 64 in the rear. If I put the shocks in another hole that won't let me get the droop I need, I lengthen the shocks some more. You can cut the little plastic shaft guide pieces shorter inside the shock bodies to get your shock lengths even longer.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Very true... but it's still WAAAAAAAY better that using round head screws, which are even worse. I then takes a lot more strength to hear that "crrrrk" sound you can so easily hear when you twist the car by hand, indicating that the top and bottom plates have moved with respect to each other. Using countersunk heads on the shock towers also helps. Nobody forces you to do so, though... but in my experience, it sure does work.

Cheers,
Paul

johnbull

I have never used the Yoke shocks on my Yokes for the reason that they are so short.

I used AE TC3 shocks in the past, with Yoke tops and bladders but I now have a set of Corally Assassin shocks on my CGM and find it very good.

As pops said, so long as the shocks are long enough for you to use all the droop you want then shock length is not important.

Have a look at a recent pic of my CGM - attached.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Thanks Pops & JohnBull. That's pretty much what I've been doing. Shock length used to be pretty important. Now with the use of droop screws, it doesn't seem so vital.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Anyone know the part number for the Anti Roll Bars that are shaped similar to this } ?

I'm not talking about the roll bars that come with the CGM kit, but the older style.

daniz24

What do you mean older? Upper type or lower type?

rovic

half D shape sway bars are from rayspeed, pn#rs25... uppers are yok oldschool from the mr4, pn#zs412fsp

chaini

Thanks guys for the useful answers!

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

The sway bar that I'm looking for looks like the one in this photo
taken from the new Yokomo BD car: http://www.yokomousa.com/kits/mr4tc_...AR_END_600.jpg

I don't think that it's a Rayspeed part.

rc_bam226

Really looks similar to the rear sway bar on the SDW, here's the part no.:

SD-412WR REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR SET

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

The sway bar kit and all the hardware just came in from Yokomo USA yesterday, we should have them up by this afternoon.

Steve Wang

rc_bam226

Thanks Steve

daniz24

Do you mean this?
It's the older MR-4TCSP roll bars (upper type) The Part number is #ZS-412FSP - SP Front Sway Bar Kit

magnum

iTrader: (2)

if you get the rayspeed lower spring perches for your shocks you came get a lot of drop asjustment. sometimes you need to lengthen the shock but not often. I use associated springs. my son and i are have 2 of the only 3 yokes i know of in our area