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beer_drinker

iTrader: (2)

Ok, thanks guys. I found out that the outer screw (with the spring) was bottoming out, and obviously not holding the cam down as hard as it should have been. I filed 2mm off the end of the screw and now it works perfectly

crzydrifter

iTrader: (1)

hey u guys have any problems with the lower arms? i had the car for about 3 days and ran it like 8 times, and the damn lower arms broke off 2 times already. good thing i had spares. but do u guys have this problem also?

also another problem is that the rear shafts keep separating off. the pin that holds the two shafts keeps falling off. everytime i tighten it, it descrews over and over. i love the car but damn did it break alot for hte first 3 days.

Yokibear

Hey thanks for the tip Chris.We had the same problem 1st meeting with ours.

daniz24

You can try the graphite arms, or the heavy duty arms. I believe they are much stronger than the stock plastic ones. Pin? Do you mean the universal pin?

crzydrifter

iTrader: (1)

il have to wait till i start hopping my car. and ye i meant the unviersal pins. the pin that holds the dogbones togehter,

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

I hope you used a little thread lock on the set screws. That will do it in any car. And the first run of arm were a little on the fragile side. Yokomo has addressed this and released the hd version of the arms. I have yet to use anything other that the stock arms after installing the new wider front bumper.

crzydrifter

iTrader: (1)

its not the front that breaks but teh rear arms break so easily.

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

Hey Matt, what rollout would you recomend for a monster stock. I compared my gearing with a buddy's tc3 and I was way off. My car lacked top speed and punch but my driving has kept me in it. Now I just need to get the car to do as well.

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

front or rear they are going to break if you hit something. Graphite arms are a little stronger, the HD arms are the strongest. But I've seen them break as well.
make sure you check the kingpins if you're breaking so many arms, they could be bent.

Threadlock the set screw that holds the pins on the universals.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Matt and ritchie for the input on the inline steering blocks, I actually like the amount of steering it gives. I also changed the kingpin/ spacer position also to what was suggested, but still not clear on how this changes the front-end set-up .
Anyhow, my problem is now that I can't seem to get the amount of droop I'm after in the rear. I'm using the original RS shock tower with the 'long' shocks along w/ the Yoke 'short' ends. Maybe I should try shaving the end off the triangular piece within the shocks huh...

- JB

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

But make sure you use the 'BLUE' threadlock and NOT the 'RED'

- JB