komkit

iTrader: (6)

Mo,

I am confused. On the page 9 (Servo saver assembly)

In the instruction said "do not use part #C" from the part's tree. Use part# D instade, I looked at your finished photo of your kit. Looks like you are using part # C.

If I were to use part # D it will make the servo saver arm in-line not 90 degree like the phot in the instruction manual and your car.

Am I missing something?

Anyway, C or D... SHould the servo saver's arm in-line or 90 degree?

sosidge

First race tonight - my impressions (for those interested!)

Overall, super smooth, silent like a belt car, and fast laptimes (but felt slow...).

Used kit setup except for 40wt oil and no roll bars - once I had set the camber for even tyre wear, I had a smooth car with a touch of on-power understeer and a tendency to bring the tail around if I lost momentum mid-corner (I'll do some messing with spring rates and rear toe next week). This is on slippy floor by the way.

Lapped faster than a friend who would normally be a few tenths faster (he runs a TC3).

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

I wanna buy one BUT{notice my big but}I talked to chris tosolini at the Rcx show and he said in round about terms he liked the old car better,period. Tried to get specifics from him but,you know he has to represent.Anyway if there top american driver is not liking it,what do other TEAM drivers think?sorry don't mean to cut others off but Team driver opinions please.Thanx.

racer

the base setup on the car calls for the steering "c" hubs to be on the lower position.

is there any pro or cons of having the the steering hubs on a upper or lower position?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

other than Chris only one other team member had a car before it was released and it's been raining alot up here so the car sat for quite a while. Matt got to test his last weekend and the results were good but he's still learning the car. Your question might not get completely answered.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

How did I know you would be the first to respond?You give up on the losi already?I was just interested to see if others opinion was the same as tosolini's.Don't want to waste money on a car thats not well represented in my area.Actually noone drives Yokes here in the Bay.At least noone fast.You get a gas car for your birthday yet?l8r.

mo

iTrader: (7)

kimkit: the bellcranks should be set up so the arm is at 90 degrees. You can use it the other way but you would also have to rotate the servo and swap the bellcranks so that the arm is on the other side of the shaft.

racer: moving the steering blocks up or down is basically, yet another way to alter rollcenter, since changing this will force you to alter the droop and spring tension to acheive the same settings as before.

racenut123: I think the car is a big improvement over the previous design. The car is more consistant and more efficient. It is also WAY more adjustable than the old car. Until a couple months ago, you only had 1 setting for kickup and antisquat as well as only 2 (drastically different) rollcenter options. Now, all of that can be adjusted to pretty much whatever you want.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

give up on the Losi already??? I've had the car since it came out. It's here to stay. My birthday hasn't come yet. I'm still working on the old lady.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

racenut123- I drove Mo's car box stock about 3 weeks ago and felt completely at home with the car after the first battery pack. When I switched to Yokomo over the winter it took me about 2-3 weeks before I was comfortable running the old car. I finally got to run my own car this weekend and my opinion is that the new car is easier to drive, easier to work on, and easier to setup.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Good to hear.

Stlnlst:Hurry up already

Kyew

when the special chassis first came out both barry baker and chris tosolini preferred the old pro chassis.

THeGame

almost done with my car. Its goes to gather rather easy. I'm about 80% done. i like the a-arm are all the same..

where can i get the spring set from ?

Any one going to the on-road Nats ?

Pembalap

It probably because Tosolini has more time with the old Pro Chassis, compare to the New SD Chassis. I'm sure after he has more time with the SD, the SD is a much more capable car.

A.W

johnbull

Hi guys. greetings from Malta.

The phone call I have been waiting for finally came this morning. My SD together with a host of other bits arrived by Air yesterday. Hopefully the carriers will clear it through customs, and I should have it later today.

I can see I won't be getting much sleep tonight.

I ran the Special again yesterday, maybe the last time, who knows. What I do know is that this Special is so good that it is going to be a very hard act to beat.

We have another round of nationals on Sunday but I'm keeping my options open, though I have a gut feeling that I will be running the new one.

There are so many things I am planning to do to it, including a chassis plate which allows me to transfer the battery position forward or backward TC3 style, so it's going to take a few hours!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

sosidge

In no particular order...

1) Front shock tower with an extra, lower row of shock mounting holes - out of the box, the car has limited front suspension downtravel, and a huge amount of unnecessary uptravel. A lower mounting hole would let you run sensible ride height and droop without having to fit longer shock ends/bodies, or unscrew the standard ends. The rear shock mounts could also be a tiny (like 1mm) bit lower.

2) Alumium suspension mounts, with rotating bushings - like Hotbodies make for the Pro 3 - so you don't have to force the plastic parts and suspension pins to get alternative toe and kick-up. In particular, I think the forward rear mount should be available with the bushings, because mine has already been stretched by running 3deg toe, and I'll start to develop play in the mounts if I use other settings.

4) Alternative caster blocks.

5) Graphite plastic parts - particularly the caster blocks, which are a little on the flexy side in the standard plastic.

6) Outdrive rings with slots - it's a real pain trying to manhandle the diffs out to adjust them - 2 screws access is brilliant, but it takes two more minutes (and more disassembly) to get the driveshafts out. Larger diameter rings, with slots in them to let the driveshafts slide straight out (like on the Pro 3) would make diff access and adjustment much easier. It would also speed up spur changes.

7) Rear input shaft with two flats on it for the spur holder grub screw to locate on - with one flat, it's easy to slie the spur holder on and have it facing the wrong way once you get the pin in - with two flats, it wouldn't matter. Could be home made with a file or dremel I suppose.

I would appreciate other owners thoughts on these parts - should Yokomo be making them?