Yokomo MR-4TC SD
Re: CAN'T GET GEAR MESH RIGHT IN DIFFS
Originally posted by shooky
IS THERE HOPE FOR MY YOK?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
IS THERE HOPE FOR MY YOK?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
Theory aside for one moment - no wonder you're finding it difficult to get the mesh right.
Regards hope for your Yok - course there's hope - go back to the original drive pinion and the problem will go away!
How many Yok SD drivers at the worlds were using the Product D 2.5 ratio kit.......?
Hope you get your car sorted soon.
Regards
Horatio
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I have gone back to the original gears and I am still having th esame problem. Used every shim setup I can think of.
Thanks though,
Stephen <><
Thanks though,
Stephen <><
Well, as the gears are new you will have to check the teeth for any trace of flashing that may be left over from the moulding process. Use a sharp knife/scalpel to remove any surplus material. Also bear in mind that diff gear (crown) it's a good idea to replace the drive pinion at the same time.
The gears also need to bed-in and only when this has been done will you attain total silky smoothness.
The gears also need to bed-in and only when this has been done will you attain total silky smoothness.
Re: CAN'T GET GEAR MESH RIGHT IN DIFFS
Originally posted by shooky
Hey guys I have been trying for over a week to fix a little problem in my SD Rayspeed Diffs. I had tried the Product D Bevel gear change and coundn't get the gear mesh right in the Diffs even with every possible shim configuration. I went back to the original gears and still have the same problem. The front and rear bevel gear isn't matched up like it should be. I even tried to shim the Diff it self to the side which I think creates drag and didn't want to but was desperate to get it running and after about one minute it would have the same gear grinding noice as before. I have new diffs new gears, new diff cases and new shims should I shange them also? There isn;t any real sign of wear on the current gear and diffs(they were just rebuilt).
IS THERE HOPE FOR MY YOK?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
Hey guys I have been trying for over a week to fix a little problem in my SD Rayspeed Diffs. I had tried the Product D Bevel gear change and coundn't get the gear mesh right in the Diffs even with every possible shim configuration. I went back to the original gears and still have the same problem. The front and rear bevel gear isn't matched up like it should be. I even tried to shim the Diff it self to the side which I think creates drag and didn't want to but was desperate to get it running and after about one minute it would have the same gear grinding noice as before. I have new diffs new gears, new diff cases and new shims should I shange them also? There isn;t any real sign of wear on the current gear and diffs(they were just rebuilt).
IS THERE HOPE FOR MY YOK?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
Try checking the the spacer amount on the input shafts, they are the spacers in between the input gear and the bearing.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Re: Re: CAN'T GET GEAR MESH RIGHT IN DIFFS
Originally posted by forty6
Maybe a long shot, but have you checked your input shafts? They can sometmes bend in a bad crash.
Maybe a long shot, but have you checked your input shafts? They can sometmes bend in a bad crash.
thanks,
Stephen <><
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
probably a dumb question that with some reasearch i could find the anwser to but hey im at work and this will bump the thread back up
whats differnt between the cgm and the ssg chassis, somewhere i saw a tub style and every other one i see is the two deck carbon fiber style. which one is which?
which ones do you guys like better for which aplications?
im about to get a bonus check and what a new touring car and not a losi or an AE, its gonna be a yoke or an hpi probably
whats differnt between the cgm and the ssg chassis, somewhere i saw a tub style and every other one i see is the two deck carbon fiber style. which one is which?
which ones do you guys like better for which aplications?
im about to get a bonus check and what a new touring car and not a losi or an AE, its gonna be a yoke or an hpi probably
CGM = Tub
SSG = Double Deck
SSG = Double Deck
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
This Thread is titled Yokomo MR-4TC SD
So it is the SD that we are talking about here but the CGM gets a couple of blurbs every now and again. Basically the car is the same except the chassis. The SD SSG is Carbon fiber and the CGM is Grafite. I personally like the Rayspeed upgrade to the standard ssg chassis but that is my preference. The SSG is a real nice racer. My friend races his CGm and he is fast with it also so what it comes down to is do you like Carbon or Grafite?
There is your answer.
Hope this helps
Stephen <><
There are slight variations but the car is the same minus the Chassis.
So it is the SD that we are talking about here but the CGM gets a couple of blurbs every now and again. Basically the car is the same except the chassis. The SD SSG is Carbon fiber and the CGM is Grafite. I personally like the Rayspeed upgrade to the standard ssg chassis but that is my preference. The SSG is a real nice racer. My friend races his CGm and he is fast with it also so what it comes down to is do you like Carbon or Grafite?
There is your answer.
Hope this helps
Stephen <><
There are slight variations but the car is the same minus the Chassis.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Horatio
beat me to it,
LOL
beat me to it,
LOL
I think the best combo is Yoke SD CGM converted to Rayspeed chassis.
You get lightweight chassis and all of the graphite parts.
You get lightweight chassis and all of the graphite parts.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
so you buy the car for 270, then spend another 150 on the rayspeed conversion?
well i guess you could if you want, just buy cgm and get a few rayspeed goodies.
Originally posted by ritchie
well i guess you could if you want, just buy cgm and get a few rayspeed goodies.
well i guess you could if you want, just buy cgm and get a few rayspeed goodies.
Nothing yet has been posted, sorry.