Cobra81li200

Wohohooooo Rick's moving to yokomo, that's some news

Cobra81li200

Paul,

Did you try shorter and more angled camber links ? You also have the solution of reverting the king pins spacers (put the one between the C-Hub and the Hub on the bottom king pin instead of the top), this will raise the RC, giving you less steering (don't forget to re-set the droop and shocks pre-load).

As for swaybars, make sure they are symetric. I always take the time to check that when I use them. Remove the wheels, lift one side until the other starts moving, chek that when you lift the other side, you have to lift it the same amount for the same effect. Generally, the bars are not totally flat, so the links between the bar and the wishbones needs to be adjusted to the proper length. Once you've got it symmetric, you're done and ready to hit the track

Rick Draper

And i get a spool thrown in as well . Fancied a change to Yokomo as Andy Childs is there and i get on really well with him and driving the 415 in the UK there was only me and Jon Winter and it becomes to much after a while. Rick

Cobra81li200

I know what you mean, it's not easy being the only one to use a car, I'm sure you appreciate my opinion on that

Rick Draper

Yes it becomes far to much after a bit. If we got some help from Tamiya europe it would be fine but no one is interested. Cannot wait for this yokomo now Rick

Cobra81li200

If you get it, I can probably give you my basic setup for sharley, although it might be different from what Andy will give you (if you speak to him, say hello for me and thank him for the help at West London and through the year). I'm not using any Rayspeed parts and they are using them a lot (and special shock towers aswell).

Tommy Bergfeldt

I got the SDW pre-ordered yesterday, they hope they get 3 cars in the beginning of december or end of november. We'll just wait and see

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Kentech,

Yes I did. I'll get back to you right away today sorry for the delay

Steve Wang

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Rick,

I saw that, thank you very much. I will also reply your email today.

Steve Wang

Dan Hughes

Steve, can i preorder a SDW through email as you dont have my card option. (Well not until i get the card!).

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Matt And Cobra:

Thanks for the feedback. I'm actually glad to hear that Matt is having the same "issue" as me, ie it takes a good quarter-inch for, say, the left side to move up when you manually lift the right one. Although it indeed looks like it is useless on the stand, it DOES make a difference dynamically. I still don't get it... oh well

I tried shorter upper links, and it did seem to help. I'm not good enough a driver to be explain how the car "feels", but I broke my lap record yesterday, so I guess it was better. No more traction rolling. I was also limited by the longer tamiya ballcups (hein Fab ) so I could not go as short as I'd have liked, but it worked good nonetheless. I ended up using a weird set up with front shocks vertical and rear ones leaned to the max... but, hey, it works

LAter and thanks for the help,
Paul

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Dan,

Can you send me an email about this? (I think I got one from you yesterday if I remember correctly) and I'll take care of it from there

Steve Wang

Cobra81li200

Yes Paul, I've had that issue with the Tamiya ball cups, they do not allow you short links, it was very bad at the Corally Days (had to use a lot of camber on the front to have the car stop grip rolling, 3.5° ).

pheyhoe

Bloody hell if thats how much it is in USA here (UK) it will be like 350 at least. also i cant see why it is so expensive the only 2 "major" things i can see is the diff housings, and the decks look like there are made out of a better grade of carbon fibre, notice the lackered effect. and they are different at the ends to fit the diff housings. on one of the pictures there are the blue toe in blocks etc, none of these are on the standard SDW kit the pictures on CML distribution site are more accurate i think. maybe i am just being tight but i cant see where £150 - £200 more than the standard SD is being spent :S

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Ti screws, precision bearings, YMP driveshafts front and rear, machined aluminum gearboxes, Ti and aluminum ball studs, and a Team Bomber driveshaft. No one said this car is going to replace the standard SD's, it's just a chance for the everyday racer to get the exact same car as used by the factory drivers at the worlds.