Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Get ahold of some of the hardened univerals for the old car. You have to shave down the end slightly to get them to fit but they're 100 times better than the stock cvd's. I don't remember the part # but I know that speedtech had them in stock awhile ago.

shortygy

Matt how would you take general twitchyness out of the CGM... and also what servo saver do you run. I have never broke any before but yesterday I broke 2, 1 associated and 1 stock yok one the long one....from the sd

utieh

iTrader: (3)

I've just intalled it in my SD but I wanted to be sure about how it should be shimmed.
I kept the 3 shims on the imput shaft and let 1 on the spool but it made an odd sound, so I removed the 1 on the spool and now it seems to be ok.
I'm just afraid to break gears, could someone confirm this??
Thanks

Gilles

yodace

iTrader: (8)

ZS-010RTB=Rear Dogbone for Low-Friction Universals for Yokomo MR-4TC/TCSD Touring Car. Blue Anodized aluminum (1 each)

Would it be this dogbones...?

pops

iTrader: (1)

ZS-010FH Front Hard Universal Driveshafts
ZS-010RH Rear Hard Universal Driveshafts

The rear is a direct fit, but you need to grind down the ball on the front to fit on the front one-way like Matt said.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I just run the stock servo saver from the CGM. To take twitchyness out you can run a heavier front sway bar, stiffer front springs/oil, or lay the shocks down more in the front and rear.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

That's the dogbone side of the CVD in blue aluminum. I run those on the rear of my car because they're lighter and the hardened universals up front. Pops just posted the part #'s for them

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Every gear box is going to vary ever so slightly in the shimming. I start by shimming my gears on the tight side and move shims until the gears feel like they're not binding up anymore.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

ZS-010FH Front Hard Universal Driveshafts


Will this work with just a regular diff, I don't us a spool or a one-way up front right now..


> |---------------

Do u grind down the end?


When u say grind down the ball how much do take off?


So u run the blues in the lightened blue dogbones in the back and in the front u use the Hard Universal Driveshafts...

Pics would help... if u having any...

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

You just grind down the ball on the end so that it's even with the pin. Sorry, I don't have any pics of my car and i'm in the process of packing all my stuff up to be shipped to korea as we speak

pops

iTrader: (1)

Here is a picture

utieh

iTrader: (3)

Matt,

Thanks,
With 3+1shims it wasn't working at all (grinding sound), now with only 3 on the imput shaft it seems to work ok, but perhaps I should put on the imput shaft on 1 on the spool, I'm just a little bit paranoïd about breaking gear rings

pops

iTrader: (1)

Be sure not to grind it down too far, because the pin can fall out and that would be bad.

Horatio

This makes me laugh ;-D

I remember the problems I had with the stock SD drive shafts. The CV joints had a nasty tendancy to bind and start friction welding themselves solid!! This would cause the 'wheel lifting problem' described.

When I happened to mention the fact that they either needed some 'fettling' work or replacing for alternative drive shafts, many people told me I was wrong and that the stock driveshaft were fine!!

Seems to me that seeing as the replacement HD universals require grinding anyway, doing a little work on the stock Constant Velocity type drive shafts isn't such a waste of time afterall Especially if you're prepared to do the corally/rc lab blade mod as well - it really helps smooth things out and reduces diff out wear rate too.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I remember all the problems you had, and although I never seized one up as you did, I did break many stock axles where the cvd pin goes through it.