magerz24

Hi everyone, I have a problem with glitching. I am running a gt7 and jr synthisiser reciever( the one that comes with the xs3). I don't want the reciever mounted on the serve, yes, I know that will solve the porblem. I want the electrons as low as posible. I dosnt glitch that much but a little glitching is a lot. I have the diode circiutboard on. I tried adding extar caps on and that didnt work. Right now I have the reciever against the center brace and the esc nest to it. Is there a product out there that blocks rf waves or reduces glithcing. Any help is appreciated.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

TN racing has a ferrite magnet sheet that can be cut to size and place on the receiver. Unfortunately it is only avialable in Japan. I have one and it works. cost is about $20.00 for a 2x3in. sheet.
you can also try getting some ferrite magnets that snap onto the power wires of the ESC... that may help. Your PC cables have them...

EricF

1. You can also try two layers of servo tape under the servo.

2. Also try to insulate the recever wire from making contact with the graphite of the chassis by using an extra peice of antena tube from the recevier to the antena mount.

3. Check your batteries, is the wrap on the cells compromised? Making contact with the chassis thus causing radion noise?

4. Are the springs still good on your motor, if you have a lot of brush bounce you can get arching at the com. also causing interference.

Eric

2Tenths

Rick: The first thing I can recommend when you order your SD is to get the black carbon version rather than the SSG, as the chassis is more rigid, and perhaps ligher. If you plan on running with foams on carpet, or carpet in general you will probably want to get a second top deck to stack on top of the original.

Some hopups to get started:
*Tobee Craft aluminum input shafts (lightens drivetrain)
*Tobee Craft aluminum center shaft (lightens drivetrain)
*Tobee Craft hardened stub axles (they're awesome !)(stronger)
*Suzuki aluminum front steering knuckles (won't strip out kingpins, and can use thread-lock)
*Yokomo one-way diff

The Tobee Craft aluminum drivetrain cuts the weight in half (supposedly). The stub axles that come with the SD are very brittle, and the hardened ones should help this problem. Some more hop-ups my car has, but you should get later on are:

*Yokomo Ti screw set
*Shooters Aluminum top deck mounts
*Extra Yokomo rear shock tower to run up front.
*Rayspeed Conversion (coming soon!)
*Tobee Spur adapter
*Tobee Servo Mounts

James Nguyen

If you have tried everything else then try using an RF filter that goes on your wires. From rainbowten in japan, 3503435005034,YOKOMO,500YEN,YM-CF NOISE KILLER CRUMP FILTER, about 4.50 and the pack comes with two. JR also makes them and you can get them at your hobby shop. Part numbers are JRPA028 for the clip on ones and JRPA029 for the ring style ones. the jr clip on ones are 12.99 and the ring style ones are 8.99

vtl1180ny

How are the aluminum hubs holding up??? I'm staying with the plastic for now but have thought about going aluminum...

I decided against the aluminum input shafts and got the titanium ones instead... I also got the titanium axels and I think I'm going to go with the aluminum bones...

Has anyone tried either the graphite or tobee aluminum center shaft? Looks like my local track is only going to be stock so I want to lighted up the drivetrain a bit...

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I've been running the tobee aluminum shaft all summer long in mod TC with no problems, I split the Yokomo graphite one in a single battery pack.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I ran both front and rear Tobee Craft Aluminium input shafts. But the rear one was warped. It was soo slight. But noticable when you took off the main shaft and rear axles and just spun the spur. So I just replaced it with the Square Ti rear input shaft and kept the Tobee Craft one up front.

Anyways, if anyone is curious, I'll post a pic of the SS shock body next to a SSS shock body to see size comparisons....

Almost done with the RS Chassis. Just looking for some smaller servo mounts. I may wait to mount the servo when I get my F201 tomorrow. See what kind of mounts are on it. Or just get off my butt and go look in the shed.

As for the Aluminium suspension blocks... I may just get the F0 block so I don't have to shim out the rear to get my zero kickup.

Well let me head out. Chat with yall L8Rz

vtl1180ny

How's the weight difference on the Tobee???

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Man where has JohnBull been lately? He was on here a fair amount and now I haven't seen him post in some time.

Roger

iTrader: (10)

I have the black SD chassis and today I went to speedworld to practice with it today. The first thing I did last night and today was to balance out the chassis ( same length shocks, droop at 6mm front and 4mm in the rear, 5mm ride hieght on both ends ), and radio calibrated for esc and steering. The first thing I notice about the car was that it would understeer ( push ) when I made a right turn and oversteer when I made a left turn. This was driving me crazy so I checked everything again. The only way I can drive the car was to finess it through the corners. But, even though I drove the car like this, it still understeered when I made a right turn.

At the end of the day, I came to a conclusion that my chassis was tweaked. I went into Billy's hobbyshop and noticed that they had a new SSG chassis on the wall. When I was about to tell Billy the problem I had with the SD, he took the words out of my mouth before I could say anything. Billy replied, " hummm, SD. Right turn push and left turn oversteer. " I said, " Yup, your exactly right Billy. " He said it not the chassis, but the car. He has one also I was told.

So, for all you yokomo fans that have this car, did your car do this and if so, what did you do about it ?? I was thinking about adjusting the preload on the shocks to balance out the chassis or wiegh the car down by statigically putting down 1/4 oz lead wieghts some where on the chassis. Ever notice all of the wieght that Masami's gold SSG has ?? Anyways, let me know guys. Thanks in advance.

teamatlas

iTrader: (2)

Roger,
This is James, I'm on a friends name. With the stock chassis I took the car apart before every race day. The new rayspeed chassis' motor mount is supposed to fix the tweak problems in the rear of the chassis, since it has a triangle mounting position for the mount in the center of the chassis. supposedly the motor mount on the yok chassis creates a tweak since its mounted along the rear of the chassis.

sosidge

The way I would solve chassis tweak (aprt from going to the rayspeed parts) is to remove the centre stiffener, get the chassis on a totally flat surface, and re-tighten the top deck. Then check the droop settings are even on both sides. Then check the steering setup and other geometry is set evenly left to right. Then with the car at race weight do a tweak test (like detailed on Losi's site), and set the shock collars. It makes the car run a lot more evenly. Of course, the car will by nature have a touch of torque steer that you will never truly dial out, simply because of the motor orientation.

munrath

iTrader: (4)

Roger,

I typically have more preload on the right front and left rear shocks.

Mark

ongbenghui

iTrader: (5)

Excited with my new rayspeed parts.
Show off my SD.

I am using a Rayspeed top deck on top of the SSG top deck.
There is offset on the steering post hole from Rayspeed and SSG. I need to make countersunk hole on the SSG to secure the steering post.

However, with Rayspeed top deck, center stiffer. I still find the
chassis is flexy.