munrath

iTrader: (4)

wyd,

Thanks.

mo

iTrader: (7)

The spacers with the notch should be .8mm and the ones without the notch are 1mm.

Does anyone have a website for the Hiro Factory or Shooters stuff?

EricF

Looking for a GOOD cappet set up 45'x90' smooth, good traction from bi-weekly racing.

Thanks
Eric

James Nguyen

http://www.hirofactory.jp ?

mo

iTrader: (7)

Thanks James, too bad they don't have any pictures and I can't read Japanese. There english site doest have much info.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Mark Unrath, don't you ever read instructions?!! haha. Do you have a Yok now? Just trying one out?

munrath

iTrader: (4)

Jimmy,

What's up? How are things? Trying one out you might say. Doing some testing and stuff. Never know.

Mark

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Thats cool. Not bad here. My luck is starting to come back around. Just wish it sticks with me for Cleveland. But that's too far to tell. What are you gonna be racing the Yok on? Carpet? Asphalt? Anyways, have fun with the car. Drop me a line if you need any help.

Jimmy Mac

ChrisF

Hello all.

I'm pickup up a SD this weekend after a long absense from electric. I wanted to know the following:

1) what parts commonly break?
2) Any recommended hop-ups and for what reason?
3) What's a good starting point for stock gearing?
4) What's a good starting point for mod grearing?
5) What is the preferred body(s)?

Thanks.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

as with any car the front end parts are the most easily broken, get some front castor blocks, steering blocks, and arms. As far as hop ups you might want to try a oneway and maybe an assortment of springs for the car. For stock gearing it depends on the motor and track but somewhere in the 6.6-7.2 overall range should work. For mod I usually gear my 10 turns around 8.2 and my 9's at 8.6, but that also can change with the track. I still prefer the old stratus bodies over the new Alpha's, but that's personal choice.

Gezuz

Mo >> Use some translator to translat to english. Like this one:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/
oor this one_
http://intertran.tranexp.com/

I use babelfish to read the japanes Yokomo site. Her is an ex.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...s%2Findex.html

weekendracer_uk

Well i went and done it now, i have given my credit card some more abuse and ordered a new Yokomo SSG SD .

So any tips on building the car and setting it up would be most welcome.

coolrcdad

Matt, I noticed on either your setup sheet or someone else's that you use the lower hole on the front hub carriers rather than the upper one (like in the instructions). I've tried using the lower hole, but it often pushes the arm down so much that the underside of the end of the arm rubs on the wheel. I recently broke a wheel because of this issue. My question is how do you run the lower hole and keep the arm at an okay droop angle so that it handles well and does not rub on the wheel. The other issue I had was that I thought that with the lower position I thought the arm had too much droop. It looked like it was pointing downward, away from the chassis.

Roger

iTrader: (10)

What degrees of caster are the blocks in the SSG kit ??

Rampant

coolrcdad --
Don't mean to jump in on someone else's question, but I run the lower front holes on the hub cariers with no problems at all. For the arm rubbing inside the rim, I am using Yok dish wheels and they have enough clearance. What rims are you running? It is possible they are smaller in diameter and rub accordingly. As far as the droop is concerned, again, I have no problems. I am running around 5mm ride height up front and the arms are just bout parallel to the ground at rest and have a droop of about 5mm.

How long are your shocks? Front tower or rear tower up front? What's your ride height? Short or long ends?