rai

Hello again,
I am currently drifting using yokomo mr-4tc sd. When the kit was freshly assembled drifting it was awesome but when i went for upgrades such as from standard dampers/absorbers to yokomo stage 2 adjustable dampers and using sway bars at the rear, things just went wrong. Now the rear is losing so much traction (i know drifting means losing traction at the rear) but it was swaying here and there after exiting tight corners. What should i do to rectify this? Is there any drifters or anyone out there that can contribute some solutions?

goots

iTrader: (20)

recently converted my drift package to a TC.

front
spool diff
5.5mm ride height
rayspeed yellow
1.2mm sway bars
40wt shock oil
2 hole pistons
2mm camber
1 degree toe block
1 degree toe out

rear
6.0 mm ride height
rayspeed blue
1.0mm sway bar
35 wt shock oil
2 hole piston
1.5mm camber
3 degree toe block

everything else stock. The car feels great but the problem I am having is the car feels neutral and I cant get it to rotate. Is there any more adjustments I can make to gain more steering?

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Loosen the diff, that will really do it, and then try the 2 degree rear toe bar instead of the 3 to see how that feels. I assume you're running on a high bite surface, if that's not the case and you're running on a parking lot with medium to low grip then get rid of the sway bars. The car will feel much better over all.

goots

iTrader: (20)

anyone have experience with the molded graphite chassis?

Molded Main Chassis (Graphite/can use with Lipo ans Life) *SD-002MCG
Molded Main Chassis (Graphite/Light Weight) *SD-002MG

Chico40

hmmmm molded graphite chassis, ive converted my stock chassis to the team suzuki aluminium chassis for my SD, it was great...

jychow

Hi. How was the weight of the aluminum chassis comparing to the stock one? The stock chassis with milled down battery bones (to accommodate lipo) is about 120g.

Chico40

i havent measure yet the weight so far. what i can say, it is much heavier compare with the stock ones. then the aluminium chassis was a bit stiff which what i wanted compare to the stock chassis.

then now i dont need to extend my battery post higher because the aluminium chassis was buit for lipo's. and the aluminium chassis a bit wider than the stock one's. anything just PM me...

jychow

Thanks for your reply. I took a dremel and milled down the extra materials surrounding the battery slots. Now it is flat and can accommodate Lipo packs.

Just picking an old car and raced it against the new belt driven tourers. Still competitive, I guess. We race mostly 17.5T Brushless stock motors and SSGP 48T brushed motors. Shaft-driven cars are perfect for this applications due to the smooth drive train. Now, I just have to reduce the rolls effect on cornering to improve the cornering speed.

Chico40

what's the best gear ratio for countersteering the SD, 1.5 or 2.0 ratio?
then, how about the setup?
anyone could help me...

goots

iTrader: (20)

anyone still race this car on asphalt. 17.5 spec class?

mugler

iTrader: (3)

I still do. Just club raced yesterday 17.5 in boosted class but my esc was non boosted. It does surprisingly well against mid level modern sedans like the tamiya TA-05 v2 and alike but against double decker super high end TCs not so great mainly because of weight difference, among other refinements that those cars have come up with in the past 7 rears or so since Yok SDs been out.

magnum

iTrader: (2)

I ran one wiyh foam on carpet, quite competitive. then I got the lcg conversion for it and was great, always handled great. now I run a bd on foam and carpet

goots

iTrader: (20)

where can I get a front spool for this car

niznai

Nah, the problem is not the modern machinnery and their lower weight. What I found was the lack of a spool made all the difference. Everything else is just brilliant on these cars, and I had great success with it using a front one-way in 17.5 class. Perhaps higher power motors will induce an uncontrollable torque steering, but not 17.5. My car was just slightly overweight and that was using a full size servo such as the JR8715, Tekin RSPro and KOpropo receiver and 5000mAh Lipo. With a low profile servo and a smaller battery, the car can be down to normal weight.

That being said, there is a number of ways to make your own spool, and there is even an after market spool. You can usually find it on ebay.

later edit:

I just realised people here were talking about the run of the mill SD. I am talking about the SD-SSG. Not sure if this is a major difference, but the shocks on the SSG are some of the best even by today's standards (in fact nothing much changed in shock technology for a rather long while).

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

At a club race or any of the slower themed Touring classes like VTA, this chassis should run fine against most. Even the new stuff.