outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Im going to be running an SD-SSG in VTA this season, who has some good setups for some what rough medium-high traction carpet track with a 21.5??

I have both chassis for this car, a standard black carbon and the SSG silver graphite.
Here is a pic of it with a Tamiya Corolla GT body.

kriiiss

iTrader: (26)

anyone have a front one way for sale?

and a rear bumper for the SD?

niznai

Just bring everything back to instruction manual spec and you'll be fine provided you have the right tires for your track.

One-way

iTrader: (1)

Any one know how or if I can get my hands on a lcg kit for my ssg?

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

about $43usd and available since september 2009 @ any online japan
or drift hobby shop. Try champ r/c.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Thats quite beautiful.

I still love my SD SSG.

goots

iTrader: (20)

a cheaper alternative would be to get the aluminum spool, dremel the outdrives so you can fit tc3 blades in them.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

Yeah you could do that I guess, not as tricked out

gazmidas

Hi,

I run a SD SSG in the UK on indoor carpet tracks. unfortunately since the introduction of brushless motor's and lipos I can no longer get the diffs to survive any length of time - the diff comes loose and the screw then snaps.

Can anyone advise where is best to buy parts for the SD these days? and is there any special tricks to get my diffs to last longer?

Note I am running the Andy East chassis which you may not have seen before, hopefully the picture will work on here!

Gareth

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

gareth. Your not building the diff properly, follow the manual and use your
diff building experience to do it. I ran a 6.5 brushless on asphalt in my SD last season all day and never had a problem with the diff loosening or breaking.

Get your parts from HK based hobby shops like rcmarket.com.hk, rcmart.com, or rc-mushroom. You could hitup rcmodel.hk or driftspeed.com. A really great place to get Yok parts is champ rc in japan. You have to email Masa for your order, have your part numbers ready.

gazmidas

Thanks for the quick answer!

I am not too sure if I have the manual any more to be honest. So if you could give me a quick run down of the build process for the diffs it would be much appreciated.

Also - is there any chance you have the part numbers I will need to order the outdrives, diff plates, thrust plates, screw, spring and nut?

I have the gears and will order ceramic balls - any chance you know the ball size?

Regards
Gareth

niznai

If you don't ave them already, you can use the BD-5 diff joints (aluminium) and a thicker screw (I think this ne is 2.5mm as opposed to 2mm).

If you do your diffs correctly you will find these are some of the longest lasting diffs given that they are sealed.

Lastly, use a spool on the front.

digitrc

I'm sure there is a manual for the diff build around somewhere.

The key to building the Yokomo diffs (all diffs really) is thorough lubrication of the thrust assembly. Make sure there is plenty of black grease packed in there and on the screw too.

I have been running Yokomo diffs in my cars for most of the last 8 years! And by my reckoning I have had two diff screw failures.

Can't comment on what works on the car from the BD-5, but I do know that the plastic moulded diff halves are a weakness on the SD. They don't break, but they make it hard to build a smooth diff by modern standards. The alloy diff halves from the original BD will fit and are better (some say they notch quickly, again I can't comment as I haven't put may runs on my recently acquired set).

All the diff internal parts are still relatively easy to come by, again I'm sure there is a manual somewhere on the net or a list somewhere in this thread that has the individual part numbers. The diff uses 3/32" balls.

housey

iTrader: (1)

I'm still running a BD and the diffs are essentially the same, well all the internals are anyway. I'm not sure how you are snapping screws but this is how I do my diffs.

Ceramic balls are a great help and you should defo get them. Sand the plates (all 4) down with some wet and dry, anything over 600 grit will be ok. This makes them flat and helps the balls grip a bit as well IMO. Do this with new and used plates. Makes old plates last a lot longer as you can keep on sanding the groove off.

Like the others said make sure you get lots of thrust grease on, associated stuff is great. For the big balls I only add grease to the plates. Use plenty of silicone grease, but try to apply it neatly. I'm using associated stuff again at the mo but I have used the MR33 stuff and that is brilliant.

Screw it all together, give it a little run in and that diff should be good for a couple of meetings at least. What i tend to do is when the diff tightens up and starts slipping a little its usually cos the silicone grease needs re applying. So I just open the diff up and replace that grease, its a quick fix if you are in the middle of a meeting.

Where do you race Gareth?

housey

iTrader: (1)

Just had a thought, I'm sure you posted this same issue up on oOple a little while ago and I was supposed to get back to you about my diffs and I was a prat and never did.

I'm currently rebuilding my SD as a wet car and cos I have loads of spare diffs I'll build one up for you and send you it if you want? Just PM me your address. It won't have ceramic balls though as I don't have any spare at the mo.