Team Corally RDX Phi
12-05-2007, 05:01 PM
#1231
Tech Regular
Shock oil weight controls the speed of weight transfer. If you want to make the car react quicker, use thinner shock oil on one or both ends of the car. The downside is that this sometimes this leads to excess grip. For example, too thin a rear shock oil will transfer weight to the front of the car very quickly upon turn-in, which can sometimes overload the front tires. Shock oil weight is always a balance between front to back and side-to-side weight transfer. Try things out and see how they feel. Take notes.
12-05-2007, 08:31 PM
#1232
Stiltskin....I run a 116spur with the rear sway bar no prob with 3-4mm to spare.
Thanks for the reply. I wish shipping from Montana was faster. The wait is killing me. 
12-07-2007, 01:35 AM
#1234
thanks Jimmy and PW im looking forward to 2008 
12-07-2007, 02:07 AM
#1235
Im well into the build. I have sanded and glued the CF parts, put everything on the car but the rear diff. The diff came pre assembled but i want to pull it apart and check it out. Was hoping corally would include the CF wrench for it but they didnt 
. The wrench should be here monday so i guess ill wait untill then. I know i can use other tools to take the nut off, but i dont want to run the risk of damaging the nut.
Now i went to put a pack in the car but it doesnt fit, im guessing i need to sand the battery slots down a bit??
Apart from this the build has been great.
. The wrench should be here monday so i guess ill wait untill then. I know i can use other tools to take the nut off, but i dont want to run the risk of damaging the nut. Now i went to put a pack in the car but it doesnt fit, im guessing i need to sand the battery slots down a bit??
Apart from this the build has been great.
12-07-2007, 07:55 AM
#1236
Im well into the build. I have sanded and glued the CF parts, put everything on the car but the rear diff. The diff came pre assembled but i want to pull it apart and check it out. Was hoping corally would include the CF wrench for it but they didnt . The wrench should be here monday so i guess ill wait untill then. I know i can use other tools to take the nut off, but i dont want to run the risk of damaging the nut.
Now i went to put a pack in the car but it doesnt fit, im guessing i need to sand the battery slots down a bit??
Apart from this the build has been great.
. The wrench should be here monday so i guess ill wait untill then. I know i can use other tools to take the nut off, but i dont want to run the risk of damaging the nut. Now i went to put a pack in the car but it doesnt fit, im guessing i need to sand the battery slots down a bit??
Apart from this the build has been great.
A real design miss.
A friend of mine have spaced up the bulkheads 0.5mm and that solves the problem. Not optimal though for performance.
12-07-2007, 10:00 AM
#1237
You can also shave down that M3 insert nut on the back left of the topdeck.
Easiest using a 7/8" sanding drum to sand down the cell slots.
Easiest using a 7/8" sanding drum to sand down the cell slots.
12-07-2007, 07:47 PM
#1238
I did the under side of the nut insert and had no problem filing down the battery slots until I had a perfect fit. Not a design problem in my mind. Big improvement over the original RDX.
And I happen to have a 7/8" sanding drum. Can try that on my next Phi...
Love this car!
And I happen to have a 7/8" sanding drum. Can try that on my next Phi...
Love this car!
12-08-2007, 05:29 AM
#1239
Thanks for that, ill go down to the hardwarre store tomorrow and have a look.
After having a closer look today at the diff i finally got it built. It doesnt help when your up at 1am building a diff :O. Its soooo smooth much smoother then the cyclone diffs.
After having a closer look today at the diff i finally got it built. It doesnt help when your up at 1am building a diff :O. Its soooo smooth much smoother then the cyclone diffs.
Last edited by A Ilievski; 12-09-2007 at 01:29 PM.
12-08-2007, 01:36 PM
#1240
I have found that it is easier to tighten the diff after it is in the car. I just snug it up in hand. While doing this "work" the diff after every few turns.
Also, are you installing the "Cone washer" that comes with the diff? It should go between the thrust washer and the nylon nut.
12-08-2007, 04:52 PM
#1241
I have found that it is easier to tighten the diff after it is in the car. I just snug it up in hand. While doing this "work" the diff after every few turns.
Also, are you installing the "Cone washer" that comes with the diff? It should go between the thrust washer and the nylon nut.
Also, are you installing the "Cone washer" that comes with the diff? It should go between the thrust washer and the nylon nut.
12-09-2007, 01:43 PM
#1242
The clearance between the upperdeck and the batteries are IMO PHIīs weakest point. Itīs just plain to tight. With the 2.4 mm chassis you have to sand pretty much. With 2.0 mm chassis you have to sand very much, the cells need to sit flush with the bottom, almost below and still itīs just only 0.X mm between upperdeck and battery.
A real design miss.
A friend of mine have spaced up the bulkheads 0.5mm and that solves the problem. Not optimal though for performance.
A real design miss.
A friend of mine have spaced up the bulkheads 0.5mm and that solves the problem. Not optimal though for performance.
Cut out with hack saw and
Shape with a grinder "just watch that dust "
12-09-2007, 02:41 PM
#1243
12-10-2007, 11:33 AM
#1244
I think he means a exstension to the old style top deck ??
I have had no issues with using the 2.9 top deck. I just use a small file to shape the battery slots nice and easy until the batts fit nice under there. Not tight but too make sure they will move alittle.. My batteries also do not sit below the chassis either..
Mike
I have had no issues with using the 2.9 top deck. I just use a small file to shape the battery slots nice and easy until the batts fit nice under there. Not tight but too make sure they will move alittle.. My batteries also do not sit below the chassis either..
Mike
12-10-2007, 12:02 PM
#1245
Mike, on your Modified Cleveland setup, did you run 2-hole or 3-hole pistons? Thanks.