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Team Corally RDX Phi

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Old 12-05-2007, 05:01 PM
  #1231  
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Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy View Post
Shock oil weight controls the speed of weight transfer. If you want to make the car react quicker, use thinner shock oil on one or both ends of the car. The downside is that this sometimes this leads to excess grip. For example, too thin a rear shock oil will transfer weight to the front of the car very quickly upon turn-in, which can sometimes overload the front tires. Shock oil weight is always a balance between front to back and side-to-side weight transfer. Try things out and see how they feel. Take notes.
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Old 12-05-2007, 08:31 PM
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Stiltskin....I run a 116spur with the rear sway bar no prob with 3-4mm to spare.
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Old 12-06-2007, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tandman View Post
Stiltskin....I run a 116spur with the rear sway bar no prob with 3-4mm to spare.
Awesome. Thanks for the reply. I wish shipping from Montana was faster. The wait is killing me.
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Old 12-07-2007, 01:35 AM
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thanks Jimmy and PW im looking forward to 2008
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Old 12-07-2007, 02:07 AM
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Im well into the build. I have sanded and glued the CF parts, put everything on the car but the rear diff. The diff came pre assembled but i want to pull it apart and check it out. Was hoping corally would include the CF wrench for it but they didnt . The wrench should be here monday so i guess ill wait untill then. I know i can use other tools to take the nut off, but i dont want to run the risk of damaging the nut.

Now i went to put a pack in the car but it doesnt fit, im guessing i need to sand the battery slots down a bit??

Apart from this the build has been great.
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Old 12-07-2007, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01 View Post
Im well into the build. I have sanded and glued the CF parts, put everything on the car but the rear diff. The diff came pre assembled but i want to pull it apart and check it out. Was hoping corally would include the CF wrench for it but they didnt . The wrench should be here monday so i guess ill wait untill then. I know i can use other tools to take the nut off, but i dont want to run the risk of damaging the nut.

Now i went to put a pack in the car but it doesnt fit, im guessing i need to sand the battery slots down a bit??

Apart from this the build has been great.
The clearance between the upperdeck and the batteries are IMO PHIīs weakest point. Itīs just plain to tight. With the 2.4 mm chassis you have to sand pretty much. With 2.0 mm chassis you have to sand very much, the cells need to sit flush with the bottom, almost below and still itīs just only 0.X mm between upperdeck and battery.

A real design miss.

A friend of mine have spaced up the bulkheads 0.5mm and that solves the problem. Not optimal though for performance.
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Old 12-07-2007, 10:00 AM
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You can also shave down that M3 insert nut on the back left of the topdeck.

Easiest using a 7/8" sanding drum to sand down the cell slots.
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Old 12-07-2007, 07:47 PM
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I did the under side of the nut insert and had no problem filing down the battery slots until I had a perfect fit. Not a design problem in my mind. Big improvement over the original RDX.

And I happen to have a 7/8" sanding drum. Can try that on my next Phi...

Love this car!
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Old 12-08-2007, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
Easiest using a 7/8" sanding drum to sand down the cell slots.
Thanks for that, ill go down to the hardwarre store tomorrow and have a look.

After having a closer look today at the diff i finally got it built. It doesnt help when your up at 1am building a diff :O. Its soooo smooth much smoother then the cyclone diffs.

Last edited by A Ilievski; 12-09-2007 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 12-08-2007, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01 View Post

Just cant seem to get it tightened up. Ive been going through the instructions but just doesnt want to turn out rite. The PHi diff is more complex then the cyclone diffs

I have found that it is easier to tighten the diff after it is in the car. I just snug it up in hand. While doing this "work" the diff after every few turns.

Also, are you installing the "Cone washer" that comes with the diff? It should go between the thrust washer and the nylon nut.
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Old 12-08-2007, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by imprsme View Post
I have found that it is easier to tighten the diff after it is in the car. I just snug it up in hand. While doing this "work" the diff after every few turns.

Also, are you installing the "Cone washer" that comes with the diff? It should go between the thrust washer and the nylon nut.
I will put it in the car and tighten it like that, and yes the cone washer is between the nut and thurst washer.
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Old 12-09-2007, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
The clearance between the upperdeck and the batteries are IMO PHIīs weakest point. Itīs just plain to tight. With the 2.4 mm chassis you have to sand pretty much. With 2.0 mm chassis you have to sand very much, the cells need to sit flush with the bottom, almost below and still itīs just only 0.X mm between upperdeck and battery.

A real design miss.

A friend of mine have spaced up the bulkheads 0.5mm and that solves the problem. Not optimal though for performance.
Make a 9mm spanner from an old topdeck i made mine in less than 10 mims
Cut out with hack saw and
Shape with a grinder "just watch that dust "
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Swamp Rat View Post
Make a 9mm spanner from an old topdeck i made mine in less than 10 mims
Cut out with hack saw and
Shape with a grinder "just watch that dust "
Sorry, I donīt fully understand.
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:33 AM
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I think he means a exstension to the old style top deck ??

I have had no issues with using the 2.9 top deck. I just use a small file to shape the battery slots nice and easy until the batts fit nice under there. Not tight but too make sure they will move alittle.. My batteries also do not sit below the chassis either..


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Old 12-10-2007, 12:02 PM
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Mike, on your Modified Cleveland setup, did you run 2-hole or 3-hole pistons? Thanks.
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