imprsme

iTrader: (91)

With the IP I added 19 7 gram weights to the outside of the batteries.

I did that so I could use either of the batteries in either car. My rubber tire car already had weights to get to 1525 w/ cells anyway so I just let them as they were, and the 133 grams I added with the lipo got my foam car to 1421.

It will depend on what electronics you are using also.

But 130 grams will get ya close

THeGame

Why are you guys running Tamiya shocks and not the stock shocks ?

revsinc

iTrader: (15)

Monkey see, Monkey do !

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

I'm only running the Tamiya ones because I had them laying around and they are idiot proof. They are extremely easy to use.

Every car I've ever had, the 1st thing I do is put Lundsford turnbuckles and Tamiya shocks on it. Just because, no other reason.

I havents even built the Corally shocks yet

mazmo

iTrader: (4)

Guys, have a handling problem with my Phi & would appreciate your advice.

Main issues are:
1) Major oversteer - middle of fast corners (on & off throttle).
2) Poor stability with quick direction changes - again oversteering.

Have tried various combinations, but just can't seem to get rid of the oversteer

Have attached pdf of my latest set up, would appreciate any guidance

Cheers

Alan

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hey Alan,

I don't see anything really unusual in your Phi setup. My droops would be 5/5mm. Are you not allowed to use Tire Additive at Windsor? Have you checked for bad bearings?

I converted over to the super short wheelbase for asphalt several months ago; but, that probably would worsen your hooking problem.

weekendracer_uk

Any new developements coming for the Phi or even a new car as im tempted to pick one up but dont want to be left dehind as something new comes out within a month or so.

imprsme

iTrader: (91)

Looking at that set-up it seems pretty standard.

Maybe play with the D/R and end points. You may have too much wheel input. Maybe.

Here is what I do for End point and D/R.

Set both to 100%

Turn the wheel full lock in one direction, now back off on the end-point until the steering knuckle just moves from the c-hub, Repeat on the other side.

Then I adjust D/R as needed on the track.

Too much wheel input can make the cars act very strange.

wide_mouth_frog

iTrader: (1)

Also check your rear hinge pins are not bent in anyway... you need to roll them on a flat surface and get level with it, as the bend will only be small at the end.

I had the same problem sunday, car just kept hooking in... tried all day to sort it and got home to find that!

Doh!... better late than never

JamesArluck

iTrader: (52)

Check to make sure that your rear suspension mounts aren't bent in any way. All it takes is a slight tweek and it will throw your rear toe out of adjustment and make the car handle weird. I also check the rear toe with a setup station and make sure it's identical left to right. Sometimes you need an extra .5deg. shim on one side to even it all out.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I'd change the front and rear droop.

Plus check all the above mentioned points.

mazmo

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the advice & suggestions guys... l better get busy

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

Hey all,

I'm looking to pick up a 2nd hand Corally PHI to run in the T/A class at snowbirds. Anyone looking to unload one?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Big Features, you have PM.

kobiwan

iTrader: (12)

I'm looking to get a stiffer chassis for high bite conditions. Corally offers 2 different ones. One is 2.9mm same as the stock one but made with better quality material and is multi-woven instead of bi-woven from what I understand. Part number is 79838. Then they offer a 3.4mm chassis which is part number 79839. I'm not sure if is multi-woven or if it uses the same material as the 2.9 chassis. So my question is, which one would be the best one to get?