Team Corally RDX Phi
#2327
Well, I like the new car. The new black color looks killer.
And let's face it... if these Tamiya parts are better than the Corally's, this would be an improvement. So if this is a faster car, I wouldn't totally care if it's 70% a Tamiya .
Greetings Victor
And let's face it... if these Tamiya parts are better than the Corally's, this would be an improvement. So if this is a faster car, I wouldn't totally care if it's 70% a Tamiya .
Greetings Victor
#2328
I know they are working on something (they always are) but I don't think fishers car is close to a finished product.
Last edited by Josh Hohnstein; 06-28-2008 at 05:36 PM.
#2329
Apparently the "golden ratio" was only gold plated? I'm guessing they won't call the new car a "Phi" if the ratio changes. :-D Man, this is too easy...
Okay, so on a more serious note... The cars that this appears to emulate aren't really known for being great on foam tires. Wouldn't a departure from the golden ratio potentially hurt the car on foams? Has that market dwindled enough that it doesn't matter as much?
Okay, so on a more serious note... The cars that this appears to emulate aren't really known for being great on foam tires. Wouldn't a departure from the golden ratio potentially hurt the car on foams? Has that market dwindled enough that it doesn't matter as much?
#2330
syndrome..........you will get a taste of the gold plated phi in vegas
#2333
Tech Elite
iTrader: (58)
We have our state title coming up this weekend and ive got my Phi weapon dialled, have posted a Youtube movie of it so you guys can see the car and our track, enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLilJnPLHvU
That black on the proto car looks weapon.
Rhys
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLilJnPLHvU
That black on the proto car looks weapon.
Rhys
#2335
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Let's count the ways of tamiya parts
1. front A-arms
2. Rear A-arms
3. Rear hubs
4. Front & Rear universals
5. Castor blocks
6. steering blocks
7. Sway bar set F&R
8. A-arms mounts
9. MRE spool
10. tamiya shocks
I'm no tamiya guy coming over to flame this thread, I'm running the PHI and I must say instead of calling this a prototype just give the part# to the 416 conversion kit.......oh wait it may be cheaper to get a 416
1. front A-arms
2. Rear A-arms
3. Rear hubs
4. Front & Rear universals
5. Castor blocks
6. steering blocks
7. Sway bar set F&R
8. A-arms mounts
9. MRE spool
10. tamiya shocks
I'm no tamiya guy coming over to flame this thread, I'm running the PHI and I must say instead of calling this a prototype just give the part# to the 416 conversion kit.......oh wait it may be cheaper to get a 416
#2336
The Prototype is indeed using a lot of Tamiya parts, as they will be basing the new car on the TRF416 geometry.
#2338
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
I agree, the first time trying to build the diff is a pain in the ass! Quick question for everyone, I run on carpet with Jaco foam pinks...I'm having a hard time understanding the coupler positions (hole up vs. down). The phi manual says that you should run them up on carpet but alot of the setup sheets I'm seeing for carpet run them down...What is the main difference between running up vs. down? As always, any help very appreciated.
Couplers dictate your chassis hight and angle which has a major impact on weight transfer. Pending position they can raise, lower or angle the chassis plate. Higher plate gives more roll, lower gives lower cg. If the front is low and the back is high you keep the weight on the front end at the expense of a looser back end.
**couplers can also be used to create anit-squat/anti-dive/kickup. Ex. the front coupler is up and the back of the front coupler is down gives you 'kick up' which can be used if a track has bumps.
hope this helps and if someone else reads this with a correction, please do so.
Last edited by The Bear; 06-29-2008 at 02:38 PM. Reason: better info
#2339
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I agree, the first time trying to build the diff is a pain in the ass! Quick question for everyone, I run on carpet with Jaco foam pinks...I'm having a hard time understanding the coupler positions (hole up vs. down). The phi manual says that you should run them up on carpet but alot of the setup sheets I'm seeing for carpet run them down...What is the main difference between running up vs. down? As always, any help very appreciated.
It is a general rule of thumb in vehicle dynamics that the height of the roll center should be directly proportional to the center of gravity of the car. If, for instance, a car has a much higher CG in the rear than the front, then you would have to have a much higher roll center (relative to the front) in the rear, also. This will keep the relative weight transfer balanced. Since the Phi has very similar CG's front and rear, the car often works best with the couplers at the same height. Many times people will run the rear couplers up in order to facilitate more weight transfer to the front of the car. Whether or not this works well is entirely dependent on the rest of the setup.
Experiment with these coupler positions and find the best balance for you and your car.
#2340
Nice description Brian <applause...if I could>
Thanks.
Thanks.