Gwoodrc

iTrader: (66)

Just a suggestion, why not go ahead and make a couple of topdecks, 1 like the original except maybee a "Flying Fox" logo cut in the center for a stiff (stock type) and one with the center cut out and no ears for the uprights (similar to the one in tryhard's pics) for flex and then it wouldn't be a copy just a tuning option like the layshafts and spool? I thought since the drawing are allready done it shouldn't be hard to modify and get in production. Just an idea?

flyintrtle

iTrader: (1)

Big thanks to Tory from Skyrocket for all your help today. It made the car easier & more fun to drive. Now if I can just become a better driver Hopefully I do better for this last qualifier tomorrow!

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

On the subject of std links vs JR link....

Generally speaking in RC most of the tracks we run on have very little or even no space between most corners with usually only one decent straight. For this reason is we spend most of the time each lap driving into or out of turn. To be more precise we spend a lot of time changing directions rather than holding station (either straight or turning). Shorter links primarily allow the chassis to reach its maximum potential sooner or in simple terms react quicker. This is even more apparent these days with the current speedy war making the distance between the corners even smaller.

I have played with the JR's in and out on many occasions and have yet to truly prove one can do quicker lap times than the other however in racing conditions the standard link offers much more oppurtunity to use the space on the track for head to head racing.

TryHard....
Of interest in your setup I noticed you use the diffs low. What difference do you find? I have tested on a few occasions and simply can't feel or prove any performance difference between high and low. Also I have tried very heavy to very soft springs and find the 17.5f/15.0r (losi springs) just work well on every track even very low grip. Its possible its just suits me more than the car but I find the balance perfect.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Regarding the diff height, tbh, not really played around much with it yet. I did try raising it on the front end, but given the 41t pulley, made minimal difference on the height, as it needs to be run quite high to get the right belt tension. Would like to try playing with the diffs front and rear height wise, but for the moment, its lower priority
Its interesting you should say that about the springs, as we ended up on that combo this weekend. I ended up going back to 15/12.5 for one run as a bit of a test, but it certainly didn't feel any better.
Anyway, it was a pretty good weekend, BTCC meeting at Cotswolds, learnt a lot about the car, and also what was needed when it gets a bit warm. Was almost 30degC this weekend, and track temp of over 45...(Amusing given last weekend I was wearing three layers to keep warm!!)
Main changes we made to the car from the previous setup were stiffer springs (17.5/15), thicker front bar (0.06), rear link into position 1, a smidge more rear camber, and 70wt shock oil
Results were pretty decent, with Chris and Steve making the A finals in Mod and Prostock respectively, me 2nd in the B (missing the A by about half a second ), and Rich 2nd in the C (albeit with a straightline issue we can't figure out :s), so a big improvement from the national. Certainly seem to be able to hang with all the other cars in the twisty stuff, and the it does ride the bumps really well...
Still got more to try at a later date, Mike's suggestion mainly, but now have a decent base to start from for most tracks I think.

Now I just need to sort out my website this week if I can..

Ed

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Well I guess the biggest weakness of this chassis is the limited knowledge about setups on various surfaces or layout outside the US guys. Personally I like to learn a chassis myself anyway so I never even look at them. I hope you are enjoying the chassis. I have been VERY impressed by what it can do so I imagine you will love it to once you get your head around it. The only REAL problem is the rear diff... It just loves to eat up all the dirt and dust on the track and store it up inside. That coupled with no bearing for the diff pulley to run on just limits what you can get out of it especially under load.

The really cool thing though is.... The current plan for the new chassis layout looks like it will use a conventional diff!

As for top decks... I was thinking... If we want to make a new top deck... why not go down the road of an adjustable type upper deck? That way its stiff or soft with the addition or removal of some alloy bars.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

Type R with big parts lot for sale:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-r-spares.html

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

new chassis and conventional diff? What do you know that we don't know?

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

He just knows about my plans for a new chassis, topdeck and motormount/bulkheads. Nothing to do with Losi. We realized the other day there will be nothing stopping us running the layshaft behind the motor with a short rear belt running in the middle of the bulkheads. The front belt would go around the pinion along the right side rather than the left side.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

There is work going on at revising the chassis layout to better suit modern electronics. It will involve the battery and motor moving forward to produce 50/50 weight balance. Then the rest of the electronics will fit in the center of the chassis. This will provide even better theoretical performance. As a side effect of the move of the motor you would use front bulkheads front and rear and there would be a new mid bulkhead. Then the layshaft has to move as well so the question was forward or backwards. From previous expereince with chassis of various belt lengths including 50/50 it was decided that a layshaft behind the motor would yield more potential. With the layshaft in this position it is possible to move the rear pulley from the side to the center of the chassis and the diff pulley along with it. This is something that will be tested after the new layout is tried and proven to be better than the current setup. If all goes well we will have a normal rear diff that is far better than what we currently have, better weight distribution and more tuning options. Its all good on paper but we will have to see how it works in the real world.

In the meantime I have being doing a very simple mod to my diffs recently and it is producing very good results. Attached is a picture of the diff hub with a layer of heatshrink covering the groves that the swingshaft fits in. Its the same size as what I used on the uni's and so far is doubling the life of my diffs. The picture below is from a dirty track after a two day meet. I have also used a little grease on the heatshrink its slef as I am a little paranoid that it may rub the inside of the diff tube.

JRXS_chris

Very, very interesting.

Any chance of any sketch ideas or CAD images????? I like the idea.

J@UNE

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad you guys are working on the car. I'm getting pumped to take it out of retirement.

I know its not really feasable with the wide front diff but I would like longuer arms on that car as well. For me the car was perfect when we were running stock 27T br motors but with the extra weight of the brushless and extra power, I feel like the rear end is too heavy and swigning too far (hammer effect) But I still love the car...

JRXS_chris

Could be done but would need a complete redesign of the bulkheads. Might aswell make a whole new car!

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

I often think about buying a Team Magic E4 just to feel how longer arms with a similar weight distribution works. The most unique feature of the type r imo is the diffs. Its their design that allows only 2 belts, normal length driveshafts and battery down the middle. The alternative is 3 belts ala E4 or ridiculously short drive shafts like the Tigermoth. The short arms are a side effect of the "inside out diffs". The pulleys just don't allow longer arms.

I agree that the current layout is a bit too much of a pendulum. Most of the time though I'm happy to live with that for the reactivity and steering I get from the Type R compared the the other cars I've tried.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

I haven't run my R in about a year but I've heard from guys at the track about cutting the top deck for better handling. Has anybody tried this ? Any pic's ?
Thanks.

captain stacker

iTrader: (10)

although I do understand why you guys own type r's, what I dont understand is, if this battery and motor down the middle is the absolute best layout for a touring car, then why dont the other major manufacturers bring out new cars with the lipo down the middle?

Where are the losi's in the big meets? Is it cos they dont have a 'team' anymore?

are there any guys who currently run a losi, who have come from tamiya/xray background? How do they compare?