BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Seems like it will work although covering the diff tube hole would not allow for quick diff adjustments and the thrust bearing already has the blue seal. I've been running on some terribly dusty places but the thrust bearing stays clean.

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

I can't picture it guys. Any kind of images that I can refer to? I do get using heat shrink to cover the outdrive (cover the slots), but I just can't figure out how to seal the pulley gaps

hacker

iTrader: (141)

I had my 1st meeting with my jrx-s today, and I was not too happy with its lack of rear traction. It would break loose entering turns off power, and mid corner on power. Started with the kit asphalt setup, but with spool. From then on, played with diff heights, roll centers front and rear, droop, front springs, camber, diff......nothing I did seemed to make any difference. The car was properly 'tweaked', however I had noticed from day 1 that the chassis is not completely flat, maybe the rear end is raised up 0.5mm on a flat board. The only thing I could not change was the roll bar, which losi stupidly left out of this kit. And plastic hex's??? losi.... come on mate!!

my rant for today

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

i ran it with diffs in front. I can't drive a car with a spool Been there

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Here's how I am going to try it. Find some scrap lexan/polycarbonate, use a compass to mark two circles, one at the outside diameter of the diff hub which the D-Ring sits against. The other circle a few mm larger than the plastic flange/ring on the pulley where the diff rings fit into. Cut it out so that I have a round "ring" that will cover the little gap between the D-Ring and pulley ring. Do the same on the other side. Hopefully a bit of glue on the outside of the diff hub and diff tube will hold the ring of lexan in place.

As for covering up the little hole in the diff outdrive with glue and the diff tube opening with shrink tube, that's pointless as no dirt gets into the thrust bearing that I've encountered and I've been running in crazy dusty/dirty places

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

I feel your pain. Ever sense the early 2000's Losi's quality has not been the best in my eyes. I hated the the cheap plastic wheel hex and not a sway bar. That is just being cheap. On a positive note. With all the slop and poor fit building the car. The car is fast, very fast. i mostly ran indoor carpet but this past summer we had a parking lot track. I am not sure what setup you went to but one thing I noticed was my indoor carpet setup worked pretty well outdoors on a large track. I had to make some some changes like running a low roll center in rear and reduce camber gain in the rear. Other than that the car felt good. I posted my setup a few pages back. Maybe you could compare it to your setup and maybe get some ideas.

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Crap dude, sounds like the tweak in your chassis is F-ing up your rear-end? Maybe your rear diff is too tight, or hinge pins in wrong hole. Probably something minor that you have overlooked causing you grief. I haven't tried the spool but with the stock rubber set-up my car was pretty planted although it understeered a bit on turn-in when I was on the throttle but aside from that the stock setup worked very well. If your chassis is the culprit, I would be giving losi a call to get a refund ASAP because a new chassis plate is $80 and if you send in one for replacement that is scratched up then who knows they might say it happened from damage you caused which would suck but could happen. Get on the horn and get yourself a new chassis.

skipstr

iTrader: (11)

Posted Type R with spare parts in "for sale" forum. Pics too. Check it out.

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Raced at a new track today with my JRX-S R, a very tight medium bite carpet track on rubber tires. I had a blast even though I was behind the pace and I didn't feel comfortable coming in hot into corners in fear of losing my ass end, but still a great night. Learned some tricks from the local guys, four out of six cars were JRX-S R's for 10.5 TC!

All of them were setting the rear shock tower back quite a bit with spacers, at least 5mm. I found out why pretty fast. The rod ends will break on the rear shock tower in a hard hit. I broke two but a quick fix with CA and zip ties held it together. Also the local guru and by far fasted guy on the track was running all his electronics on the top deck for perfect left to right balance. They were also running low roll centre in the rear and high in the front.

It was pretty daunting racing in the same heats as those guys, they were quick and I was constantly worried about making sure they got past me without issues. Still amazed at how solid this car is, absolutely no damage except for rod ends.

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Are rod ends same as ball ends? How can you break these? Is it made of just plastic? Aluminum or steel? And what hard hit can cause this breakage?

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

Rod ends, ball ends same thing. They break when arm torsion 'flexes' in a crash causing the hub to 'tilt' backwards. When it's a hard enough hit the camber link angles back as well and the rod end hit's the shock tower and cracks. With your tire off put your thumb on the back side of the hub carrier and with your finger push on the camber link/ball end. See how everything flexes. You need to put the same amount of spacers between the arm and the shock pivot ball to keep the shock geometry the same when you add spacers between the bulkhead and the shock tower.

I also shimmed up the suspension to take away the slop and used AE Black grease in the front diff to 'thicken' it up, worked good. Now I just need to figure out a good setup for my driving style, I realized I don't use the brakes very much and coast into the corners then keep a steady throttle through out the corner. I need to figure out how to keep traction in the rear so I don't slide out. Thinking some Anti-Squat, any suggestions

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Normally, the suspension arm should break first. But the rod ends? Are these things weak on a Losi? My TA05 had a serious crash, snapped the CF shock tower but my ball ends stayed. Is this problem common to the JRXS?

Im about to get mine this December so Im studying this thread.

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

i never broke ball/rod ends on any car. I had mine elongated though, but that was a shock end. On a 1/8th buggy.

mini696

Is the stock chassis compatible with bullet style LIPO plugs?

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

Intellect's 23.5mm (5000mah) needs grinding at the bottom (so the batt is flush with the lipo tray) and for the pulley to clear, as pictured;




I haven't tried those 5600mah and above (all sized at 25.5mm), but i guess the grinding will be more comprehensive. The losi is a blast to drive though