Fastredrover

Hi there.
Can you guys give me a few examples of the spur/pinion combinations
you are using for 17.5 & 10.5. The motors is a LRP X12.
I have PRS adaptors & flying fox shafts are on the way so any spur is possible.

Gwoodrc

iTrader: (66)

Assuming your running a tekin, I run a 125/31 17.5 X12 on a 75x35 carpet track. Works good with 160f temps.

BennyBagems

iTrader: (15)

I ordered the Flying Fox lay shaft and spool yesterday, no stock on the spool though so I will have to wait a while before I can test them out.
Does anyone know if the intellect IP 5000mah 40c packs with the corally plugs fit the JRX-S Type R?
I have a feeling they might be a tad wide for the steel lipo tray and a bit tall to fit under the bulkhead?
What would be some good packs to run with a 10.5t? Without spending too much on batteries.
I have plenty of various hard case lipos but they are all too tall.

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

My friend uses the IP 5000 40c batteries. I think he grinded (sanded down) the back 4 humps off and they fit. He is using Flying fox layshaft. I dont think you can use the standard as it hits on the battery. Im not sure what tray he was using but i dont think it was a steel one. But i could be wrong....

RKeasler

iTrader: (5)

When I had mine I used the plastic lipo tray and ground down the back humps fit perfectly. With the Flying Fox layshaft.

Rod

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Ok thats propably what he has done. I dont own a losi so im not sure

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

But you wish you did

I have used the IP's and what has been said it right on. Sand those humps down a bit and use the standard plastic tray. Just check with any event organizers that its ok to remove the humps! The absolute best solution is to use Thunder Power Lipo's. Not only are they flat, they realyy do outperform any others. The IP's are good value though.

crabboy

iTrader: (58)

Not yet anyway.

Rhys

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Got my new/used JRXSR yesterday. This really is a cool chassis. Wrenching doesn't look difficult. I can definitely see why the Flying Fox layshaft has become an almost must have. My 4000mah Zippy hardcase batts rub on the pulley. Gotta download a manual, tear it apart and rebuild but really looking forward to it. Can't believe I waited so long but then again....the old xxx-s has never let me down.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I had mates who used to race the xxx-s chassis and they were fast, but the JRX-S smashes it....

For all those with hump IP cells... Try running the normal battery tray and file it out a bit so the lipo fits in sweet. This way you can leave the humps (and be legal) and also fit your pack. Take note to go slow as you need to increase both the width and length to fit the packs. All in all go get some thunder powers. You won't belive the difference and they fit straight in and they are lighter than most high capacity packs!

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Will the Losi carbon fiber slotted tray do just as well ? Thats what I was thinking of buying or I have a friend who can make one out of fiberglass with squared holes similar to the holes in the Schumacher MI4LP chassis for hump lipos. Are there any other suggestions for parts to change or upgrade while I've got it apart? Fox layshaft and tray are first. Are the gray and white belts a good idea ? Any particular suggestions would help. Just want to do what makes it stronger or more reliable. Planning on running ball diff and spool most often so I'll be ordering the Fox spool also.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I've been running stock belts and have never broken one, i've run them with missing teeth and haven't had issues w/ the stock belts.

Only other MUST have is the mcmaster carr thrust bearing for your diff, i have them in stock but you can get them directly from mcmaster if you are here in the states. These things are damn near indestructible. Been running the same one in my dirty ass diff for the last 2 years .

Spools are out of stock, Pablo Diablo is working hard on getting the stronger cups right.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

The gray and white belts are only for the mid-motor car, just fyi, they won't fit the Type-R. I find that a pile of 0.030 shims is quite handy to have around for making dive/squat changes (which the car is pleasantly sensitive to) and camber link ball stud height changes as well. Having the full assortment of aluminum hex drives is also handy (3 widths).

Gwoodrc

iTrader: (66)

Greg, can you help explain the affect of the wider hubs f/r? Thanks in advance.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I have the carbon tray as well but it allows the battery to move around too much. If you can get a fibreglass tray made up with holes just big enough for the bumps then that would be great but its easier to just hack into a plastic tray.

Kit belts a gun you won't need to change them for a very long time if you race spec.

It will increase response at that end of the car but that means you will see less grip. Throwing wider hex's onto the front end is a easy way to reduce front end bit if the rear is a little loose. If you are running with good grip you can try wider hex's all round. I personally always run std hex's and have never really found conditions that suit wider hex's but here in oz grip is generally very low compared to the rest of the world.