Originally Posted by Tomillia (Post 16172257)

Notched adjustments would make the feature much more viable :nod:. Hadn't thought of this option.

Bend Bulkheads are hard so spot :lol:
To minimize the hypothetical "issue", using aluminium screws to mount the rear of the arm should do the trick.

I'm looking forward to build and race the car.

Originally Posted by Mig89 (Post 16172201)

it's more of question on whether you like making quick upper arm changes or if you prefer to play around with shims and having the correct length studs. If you prefer shims, It looks like you can just set the adjustor at certain for working range and use shims like you use to.

Originally Posted by Tomillia (Post 16172225)

The car looks pretty neat and is probably my next touring car.

I'm also not really convinced yet on the "shimless" adjustments at the upper bulkheads.
It seems to need a lot of fiddling, trying to line up the markings (at times 0,25mm in positon changes makes a noticable difference on track).
And in my opinion, whats wrong with shims, for sure not the easiest to work with but compared to trying to line up the small aluminium parts? Idk.
But as it was already mentioned it looks like shims are still an option while fixing the mount at the lowest or highest position.
So only time will tell, if this feature is usable or only a nice to have.

On the the topic of height adjustments. The option to run smaller spur gears with adjusting the height of the layshaft to run smaller spurgears sounds like a marketing gimmick to me. I haven't done the calculations for the reduction of moment of inertia. But in comparison to Spool, Diff, Driveshafts, hexes and belts the weight reduction of the plastic spur gear and aluminium pinion seems insignificant.

Hopefully there is a screw & clamping mechanism to adjust the shock angle (i'm obviously just guessing, because in the upper shock eyelet is as screw for a flat head screwdriver :confused:) And without it trying to hold the shock at the wanted position while fixing it, sounds horrible in that small not very accessible spot.

I hope the rear bulkheads won't bend too easily in a "crash" or unwanted touch of a pipe or racing incdent with other cars.
Because a lot of forces in the rear suspension will transfer to the bulkhead and won't be absorbed by the chassis.
I think the RC-Maker SP1 has a similar issue, because the suspension linkage is fixed to the bulkhead and this bends the bulkhead pretty easy.
At least thats what i heard at the track and read here on RC-Tech.
Before someone comments "Then don't crash". I'm pretty sure everyone is glad if the part doesn't bend after a crash and buy replacement parts for 30$ each Bulkhead.


Otherwise the car looks awesome and it seems that the performance is already there.

Originally Posted by gigaplex (Post 16172265)

Pretty much every car connects the upper arms to the bulkheads, this isn't unique to the SP1.

Originally Posted by gigaplex (Post 16172263)

Not convinced that the changes will be any quicker than changing a shim if you want to accurately align it. I found the caster setup on the MTC2 a pain in the butt, always having to find my gauge to measure the gap whenever I changed diff or adjusted belt tension etc.

Originally Posted by Tomillia (Post 16172268)

I wasn't talking about the upper arms. I was talking about the pushrod-lever which is mounted from the front/back to the bulkhead. I've seen 2 cars with bent bulkheads in this area.

This is not to dig on the SP1 or make the owners feel bad ^^
I've seen quite a few bent awesomatix bulkheads and there is really only the upper arm connected to the bulkhead.

It was just a concern by me, sitting in front of my computer looking at pictures of the design, that this COULD be an hypothetical problem.

Originally Posted by Mig89 (Post 16172269)

I agree. I hated the caster system and rarely make caster changes for that reason. I saw Robert making changes to Volker's car at the worlds and in minutes he was done doing several changes. Jacob's dad would also turn would make adjustments really quick as well. At least the adjustments have indicators assuming one can read the lines.

On side a note, notice how light suspension looks to be by using a nitro style front hubs instead of the traditional ones that everyone has being using.

Originally Posted by MikeO (Post 16172245)

What are we thinking for the US price?

Originally Posted by RKeasler (Post 16172425)

750+. Looks like

Originally Posted by MikeO (Post 16172455)

Bummer. Was this a reputable US source? Not entirely sure why they’re so much more expensive than the European and Asian sources. Monaco has them for preorder for $611.63. Shipping is $26.90. That’s over a $100 dollars cheaper.

I’d like to support my local hobbyshops, but Jesus!