bernoulli72

Thanks. My 3/32 must of had a burr or imperfection. I ended up filing it a bit to make it fit.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I believe that it is the inline chassis for the adjustable roll center (rear) CK-25AR.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

A good friend and long time CRC racer told me that the AR2 chassis plate yields a longer wheelbase and slightly wider front track. He’s had good results with his.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

And it isn't the inline for sure.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Running modified means a crowded, busy chassis. The capacitor bank and fan are surprisingly effective at keeping that ESC cool, it's a 2cm fan I found online for like $3.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Quick question... the ride height on my car is good and the car handles decently, but my chassis seems to be dragging the track at the back near the rear pod. Do I need to adjust droop or add more preload on my center spring? This is my first trailing link car and I'm not sure how much rear droop this car should/can have.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

It's not abnormal for that to happen, when the car corners it compresses the center pivot quite a bit. If it gets bad it can cause weird handling, so the best thing is to put a bump stop on the shock. I make mine from a piece of silicone tubing and a countersunk washer.

LonnyJ1950

You should post a pic Evan

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

The only trick is that in order to put the spring retainer on you need to put it on the shock end first and then thread it onto the shaft.

If the bump stop tubing piece is too long you can cut it shorter with a hobby knife. I set mine so I get the bump stop action just a millimeter or so from bottoming out the chassis.

LonnyJ1950

Been using bump stops for years, but I use the shock o-rings instead of tubing.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

CRC’s new CK25AR2 chassis plate option accommodates inline battery placement nicely. Mine even came with 2 red alloy standoffs and the little graphite cross piece that carries the front of the center shock and positions the battery. For those who prefer a transverse lipo, that works too, simply by using the standard post for attaching the front of the shock. Either way, it’s quite a nice setup.

racing_jason

Thank you for the clarification!

phatboislim

iTrader: (26)

Got something you wanna share with the class?!?!?😮😮

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

And I thought my car was underweight. That thing has to be maybe 650g.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

it “only” needs about 50 grams to reach 730.
IMO the 730 limit is outdated and should probably be adjusted down to around 700 or so to reflect the fact that today’s electronic are smaller and lighter than in years past. Piling on a lot of useless ballast in order to meet an outdated weight minimum only slows the cars, works the motors harder, and wears out the tires faster.