Team Associated TC5
10-11-2009, 08:49 PM
My local series is 1500g. The Nimh cars will never get down to that weight. So I need to get up to weight. At almost 150g, that's 22 pieces of wheel weights. That would look very ugly and not work very well. Maybe I'll just try and find some SS plate.
10-11-2009, 09:22 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I run at 1500g as well, I'm actually having trouble finding the space to put that weight. Although my 17.5 TC5 was perfectly balanced right until I slammed the car into a curb at my new local track. But at least I can ad weight then being stuck with trying remove weight like the Losi XXX-S I race with.
10-11-2009, 09:26 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (47)
For bodies, MazdaSpeed 6, LTCR, or even R9R (Most Aggressive). As far as a spur gear, run 72 tooth.
Are you running 17.5 or 13.5 out here?
If you want parts fast, go to losipartshouse.com and they will have everything that you need for your TC5 and you can receive your order the day following placement.
Are you running 17.5 or 13.5 out here?
If you want parts fast, go to losipartshouse.com and they will have everything that you need for your TC5 and you can receive your order the day following placement.
10-11-2009, 09:29 PM
So I've put quite a bit of time on the new car now with the Exotek chassis and narrow bulk heads. The car is dialed! I'm the fastest I've ever been and have some ideas on how to improve on that further. Picked up a second TC5 today. Not quite sure what I'm going to do with it yet.
Hi all,
With the Roar weight reduction I'm thinking of shaving a few mm's off of the weights for the next batch so that it might take 25 grams off. This can get tricky though because then it becomes difficult to balance out the battery perfectly without moving it further out. Should I shave the weights down or keep them as is?
I might go to alloy for the battery posts to lighten up the battery strap system also. Sound good?
By the way- my car was coming in at 1415g but this was with strapping tape and titanium screws. My Cyclone comes in at 1410g. Both with standard bodies with a huge fan/heatsink on the motor.
10-11-2009, 09:41 PM
Cool thanks. I have a 17.5, and a 10.5, but I will start with the 17.5 for sure, unless there is a reason to go 13.5? I don't really know the differences in the classes, other than motor power....I will go with a 72 tooth, and although I really like the look of the R9R, from the little I have read, it may be a little harder for me to handle, so I am going to go with the LTCR....Any other upgrades or changes I should do? I am just about to complete my order....
I am about to post some videos from yesterday's race at Pound It so be sure to check the Pound It Raceway thread for the videos.
10-11-2009, 09:42 PM
does a 73 t spur 38p with 33-41t pinion works? cause i used a 88t 64p with a 38t pinion.. it wont mesh not even close.. i cant move the motor any closer.. thanx
10-11-2009, 11:00 PM
10-12-2009, 12:27 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
10-12-2009, 06:11 AM
Sent you an email with an idea for the weights.
Glad to hear it's working great for you!
Hi all,
With the Roar weight reduction I'm thinking of shaving a few mm's off of the weights for the next batch so that it might take 25 grams off. This can get tricky though because then it becomes difficult to balance out the battery perfectly without moving it further out. Should I shave the weights down or keep them as is?
I might go to alloy for the battery posts to lighten up the battery strap system also. Sound good?
By the way- my car was coming in at 1415g but this was with strapping tape and titanium screws. My Cyclone comes in at 1410g. Both with standard bodies with a huge fan/heatsink on the motor.
Hi all,
With the Roar weight reduction I'm thinking of shaving a few mm's off of the weights for the next batch so that it might take 25 grams off. This can get tricky though because then it becomes difficult to balance out the battery perfectly without moving it further out. Should I shave the weights down or keep them as is?
I might go to alloy for the battery posts to lighten up the battery strap system also. Sound good?
By the way- my car was coming in at 1415g but this was with strapping tape and titanium screws. My Cyclone comes in at 1410g. Both with standard bodies with a huge fan/heatsink on the motor.
10-12-2009, 07:21 AM
MikeR, I wouldnt take a whole lot off the weights, since the car is almost perfect @ 1420 the way they are now.
10-12-2009, 07:44 AM
I sent MikeR an idea that should make it very flexible for everyone. Hopefully it is feasible and cost effective!
10-12-2009, 03:35 PM
Or8, according to the sketchy scale at my LHS, the difference between 2 new, uncut bodies was about 70g. The difference will obviously be less when they are cut, but id guess around 30-40g before paint.
10-12-2009, 03:50 PM
Glad to hear it's working great for you!
Hi all,
With the Roar weight reduction I'm thinking of shaving a few mm's off of the weights for the next batch so that it might take 25 grams off. This can get tricky though because then it becomes difficult to balance out the battery perfectly without moving it further out. Should I shave the weights down or keep them as is?
I might go to alloy for the battery posts to lighten up the battery strap system also. Sound good?
By the way- my car was coming in at 1415g but this was with strapping tape and titanium screws. My Cyclone comes in at 1410g. Both with standard bodies with a huge fan/heatsink on the motor.
Hi all,
With the Roar weight reduction I'm thinking of shaving a few mm's off of the weights for the next batch so that it might take 25 grams off. This can get tricky though because then it becomes difficult to balance out the battery perfectly without moving it further out. Should I shave the weights down or keep them as is?
I might go to alloy for the battery posts to lighten up the battery strap system also. Sound good?
By the way- my car was coming in at 1415g but this was with strapping tape and titanium screws. My Cyclone comes in at 1410g. Both with standard bodies with a huge fan/heatsink on the motor.
I had one, but it made the lipo side too heavy so I thought about cutting some weight off it. I was going to just chop one of the 6 sections off. This gave me the idea that I could chop the whole thing into 6 individual weights. I got someone to cut it into 6 equal weights and I love it, I can tune the weight I add and move it forward and back in the car too. If you want a more adaptable way to cater for many weight limits I would suggest you make smaller, more modular weights.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Regards
Neal
10-12-2009, 03:50 PM
Hmmm, I did measure two unlike bodies. A lightweight LTC-R to a regular weight Mazda 6. 30-40 grams would be nice.
10-12-2009, 03:53 PM
Hey Mike, just an idea for the lipo weights -
I had one, but it made the lipo side too heavy so I thought about cutting some weight off it. I was going to just chop one of the 6 sections off. This gave me the idea that I could chop the whole thing into 6 individual weights. I got someone to cut it into 6 equal weights and I love it, I can tune the weight I add and move it forward and back in the car too. If you want a more adaptable way to cater for many weight limits I would suggest you make smaller, more modular weights.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Regards
Neal
I had one, but it made the lipo side too heavy so I thought about cutting some weight off it. I was going to just chop one of the 6 sections off. This gave me the idea that I could chop the whole thing into 6 individual weights. I got someone to cut it into 6 equal weights and I love it, I can tune the weight I add and move it forward and back in the car too. If you want a more adaptable way to cater for many weight limits I would suggest you make smaller, more modular weights.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Regards
Neal
I had some ideas on new weights for the cars. How about making each a 3 part piece. So, for example, if today it is 9mm high make a 3 part piece each 3mm high. Then it would give users the flexibility to change the weights as necessary and even change some front/rear balance. Then you could have 3mm shims for the battery post stand-offs to make up the difference as necessary. It would require a few different length screws to accomodate. Hope that makes sense.