Team Associated TC5
04-21-2009, 08:59 PM
#9361
Help
Shock lengths are the same and in the same holes
04-21-2009, 10:17 PM
#9363
Brian, I am fairly sure that when they do the angled/forward facing servo setup that they have to flip the drive train so the front belt is on the battery side. When doing this it makes the front one way useless. At the C that might not be too good. Also they have said that they do the servo mod to calm the steering down and take out some of the sensitivity for modified racing.
04-22-2009, 04:56 AM
#9364
Just wondering, how do i know when to use a oneway and when to use a spool?
04-22-2009, 05:58 AM
#9365
Help
the front and rear are a little different but the same is happening on the front as in the rear. The left shocks are preloaded alot more than the right. I had to do this to get the right side to 5mm ride height. I don't understand why. I rebuilt all the shocks and even swapped them and it is the same.
04-22-2009, 06:21 AM
#9366
the front and rear are a little different but the same is happening on the front as in the rear. The left shocks are preloaded alot more than the right. I had to do this to get the right side to 5mm ride height. I don't understand why. I rebuilt all the shocks and even swapped them and it is the same.
04-22-2009, 06:43 AM
#9367
04-22-2009, 08:08 AM
#9368
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Front Diff
While in the process of changing my front diff to a spool, I managed to strip out the nock nut. All I did was remove the thrust balls, added the spool pads, but the nut must have been crooked in the black holder. I had a brand new rebuild kit, so I used the new lock nut and thrust screw. Same thing happened again. The lock nut appears to be very low quality. The thrust screw starts to thread, but will not get enough bite to tighten all the way down, it starts slipping. Does anyone know of an alternative for these 2 parts. It would seem that minus the thrust balls, there should be plenty of length on the thrust screw so that the spring should no longer be a problem.
04-22-2009, 08:41 AM
#9369
While in the process of changing my front diff to a spool, I managed to strip out the nock nut. All I did was remove the thrust balls, added the spool pads, but the nut must have been crooked in the black holder. I had a brand new rebuild kit, so I used the new lock nut and thrust screw. Same thing happened again. The lock nut appears to be very low quality. The thrust screw starts to thread, but will not get enough bite to tighten all the way down, it starts slipping. Does anyone know of an alternative for these 2 parts. It would seem that minus the thrust balls, there should be plenty of length on the thrust screw so that the spring should no longer be a problem.
04-22-2009, 08:52 AM
#9370
I use the TC3 bolt and nut kit. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA07&P=7) The nut is already installed in a white plastic holder. It's MUCH better, imo, than the TC5 parts.
04-22-2009, 10:01 AM
#9372
help
I am using a lipo weight but the issue is on the bat. side of the car. I have a couple of dig. food scales I will use to measure left and right side weight. Her is a pic of what the rear shocks look like
04-22-2009, 10:03 AM
#9373
I am using a lipo weight but the issue is on the bat. side of the car. I have a couple of dig. food scales I will use to measure left and right side weight. Her is a pic of what the rear shocks look like
Attachment 444431
Attachment 444431
04-22-2009, 10:04 AM
#9374
the front and rear are a little different but the same is happening on the front as in the rear. The left shocks are preloaded alot more than the right. I had to do this to get the right side to 5mm ride height. I don't understand why. I rebuilt all the shocks and even swapped them and it is the same.