Team Associated TC5
11-12-2008, 02:11 PM
#7846
I am having trouble burning up rear diff's and am in need of some suggestions on a possible fix. I have the original TC-5 and was having problems melting the rear plastic diff. Yes it would actually melt the diff rung to the outdrive. I switched to aluminum on both front and rear and am still having probs with only the rear diff! I do not beleive it's a tightening issue and the bearings are fine. This is the second season I have run the car and I honestly thought the alum diff would solve the problem. Again I am having no issues with the front diff at all. If it helps we run 13.5 LiPo on Jaco Greens.
11-12-2008, 03:36 PM
#7847
im looking to sell my Losi JRXS-r and either get a Cyclone tc or the TC5R, which car do you guy think would be easier to setup and better overall car for asphault racing on rubber tyre?
11-12-2008, 06:01 PM
#7848
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
I am having trouble burning up rear diff's and am in need of some suggestions on a possible fix. I have the original TC-5 and was having problems melting the rear plastic diff. Yes it would actually melt the diff rung to the outdrive. I switched to aluminum on both front and rear and am still having probs with only the rear diff! I do not beleive it's a tightening issue and the bearings are fine. This is the second season I have run the car and I honestly thought the alum diff would solve the problem. Again I am having no issues with the front diff at all. If it helps we run 13.5 LiPo on Jaco Greens.
Usually when diff parts melt it is because the diff is slipping too much causing heat - mleting plastic. I usually tighten the diff screw until it bottoms out and back it off 1/8 too 1/4 turn and fine tune from there. Looser is smoother but it wares out faster.
John Schoenauer
11-12-2008, 07:05 PM
#7851
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Hey, I am trying to figure out everything and things are going pretty well, I tried a spool and hated it, so I put the diff back in and liked that much better...I would like to try a one way but now i hear talk of the slipper spool. Are a 1 way and a slipper spool the same thing? If not whats the difference?
11-12-2008, 07:31 PM
#7852
Speed 6 has more aggressive steering while still being very stable. The R9R has even more steering but at the high price of very little rear grip. If you can make some mechanical grip through set up, it might be ok.
11-13-2008, 11:07 AM
#7853
change the downstop (droop screw) to 8 all around
shocks -the 3rd hole from center out - all 4 shocks
remove the front sway bar-keep the rear black one with the one dot mount
camber front = 2
camber rear = 3
apply tire compoud -Jack "The Gripper" on all 4 tires
Check your lap times, let me know if this helps or not.
11-13-2008, 05:37 PM
#7856
The internal for the tc5 is 2.0
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.
With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.
Josh Hohnstein
Gearing depends on track size and what type of motor and speedo.
With that being said......I gear my Trinity duo 13.5 at 100/41 which is 4.88 this is on a 100 x 50 track
For a Trinity 17.5 duo I gear at 100/45 which is a 4.44
I use an lrp speedo with full punch.
Josh Hohnstein
thanks,
tenpins
11-13-2008, 08:15 PM
#7857
If your track is smaller.......start about 2 teeth smaller on the pinion. Check the temp on the motor after a few mins to make sure its not getting too hot.
Last edited by Josh Hohnstein; 11-13-2008 at 08:30 PM.
11-13-2008, 09:05 PM
#7859
On the R with carpet and rubber the stiffest I have used are the coppers. Softest I have used are the greens which are the softest. The only ones you might not use are the yellow's and the whites, but it's cheaper just to get them in the kit. One kit should do you and figure out if you need multiples of any of them.