Maybell

iTrader: (2)

This is kind of hard to describe but I will try...

I dont believe in the "tighten the diff completely and then back it off a certain amount of turns" technique...I think when you tighten a diff completely, the carbide balls put pot marks in the rings...

After running pancars forever you learn to manually feel how tight to set a diff by holding the tires and forcing the diff to slip a little with your hand on the gear...I estimate in my mind how much force it will take for a motor to make the diff slip and set the diff a little tighter than that...

When building a diff I tighten it down till there is just a little pressure on the balls, then I work the diff a little, then tighten a little more...I keep repeating the process till I get to a point when the tightness is in the ballpark...then I slide a 050 allen driver in each outdrive and force the diff to slip a little to feel the tightness...then I keep working and tightening the diff till I feel it is right...then I put it in the car and run it 2 minutes without pulling full throttle...then adjust till it is perfect...

I hope this was understandable and will help you....

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

I know this has been asked before but what's a good starting point for rubber on carpet with a 17.5, gearing wise? It will be 48 pitch. Setting it up for a buddy but I run 13.5 wit 64 pitch. Would 5.5 be a good place to aim for?

SteveJa

iTrader: (17)

17.5 should be more like 3.5 ~ 4.0 more like 3.8......

treemagnet

iTrader: (17)

im still a newbie to RC but with reference to the diff questions i have probably only rebuilt my diff 4 times but the first couple i rushed it not cleaning all the old grease out of it etc etc but the last couple of times i took my time and used team associated grease and just generally was very patient when building it and the dfference was amazing to say the least!!!!

Mr.Che

@ guietstorm

Steering position c is self made...in the middle of a+b little more forward.
Bulkheads are cut to gain more flex..so you dont need the o rings...
I will post some Pic s later

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

I have mine at 4.17 with the Orion Vortex 17.5, very quick in the infield and holds it own on the 80' straight. Laptimes are the same as my PHI with the same FDR and motor, (10.8's-11.2's).

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

It depends on the motor and speedo.

I ran my trinity duo 17.5 at 4.44 on a 100 x 50 track with the lrp speedo.

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

Uh-Oh!, looks like the Dr. is gonna hand out some whoopins this weekend

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

Sorry Eric.....I won't even be there.

I was just testing motors and trying to find a good ratio to recommend.

fatbear

iTrader: (10)

If you really want a smooth diff check out this Website. I installed the rings and balls in my TC5 and followed the instructions supplied for breaking in the diff.
This produced the smoothest diff I have ever felt. And then even after a whole nights racing in modified on High Grip carpet the diff was still very smooth, certainly still better than a fresh standard diff built to the instructions.
I will only use BFast RC's products for my diffs from now on.
I know this sounds like a commercial for the guy(Fred) but the product is that good and I have no association with him what so ever and live on the other side of the world.
http://www.bfastrc.com/index.html

Mr.Che

Not the best Pic...but you can see the cuten rear and front Bulkhead+new Steering block position.

Lars

Mr.Che

DannoTC5

I bought a slightly used TC5. I was changing the springs on the shocks & noticed the shocks all feel different. Some don't hardly spring back at all, while another comes back 100%. I've tryed removing the big foam pad & refilling with oil, but they are still different. Any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong? I've also noticed one seems to have white milky oil like it has tons of very tiny bubbles. Are they aftermarket parts that are better than the standard ones?

Thanks for any help anyone can give a first time guy!

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Sounds like you need to rebuild all of the shocks. New bladders, new orings, new oil. Stock shocks are just fine...no need to replace them.

Setting rebound (the amount the shaft comes out when you release it) in shocks takes some practice.

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

Makes since to me. Will follow your precedure. Thanks for the info.