Team Associated TC5
08-21-2007, 05:57 AM
#3721
I hear lots of talk about 64-pitch gears, but let me state a fact some won't be thinking of. Unless you are a very good driver (were talking consistent lap times within 1-second of each other), then stick with more common and slightly cheaper 48-pitch gears until you can drive/perform consistently. You will have to keep less spurs/pinions on hand, and they are more durable.
Buying all the extra spurs and pinions needed for 64-pitch racing can be a waste of money until you become consistent. We all know that 64-pitch allows for greater gear ratio adjustments and run a little quieter, but if you are not consistent, then what good can be achieved by changing the gear ratio on a narrower scale? Granted, if money is of no concern, spend away.
I AM NOT consistent yet, though my lap times are coming down. I blame this on not finding a dialed setup for my TC5 just yet, but mostly my carpet driving skills are marginal as best
, so 48-pitch works just fine for me. 
Buying all the extra spurs and pinions needed for 64-pitch racing can be a waste of money until you become consistent. We all know that 64-pitch allows for greater gear ratio adjustments and run a little quieter, but if you are not consistent, then what good can be achieved by changing the gear ratio on a narrower scale? Granted, if money is of no concern, spend away.
I AM NOT consistent yet, though my lap times are coming down. I blame this on not finding a dialed setup for my TC5 just yet, but mostly my carpet driving skills are marginal as best
, so 48-pitch works just fine for me. 
08-21-2007, 06:28 AM
#3722
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Im building the shocks and from the info ive gathered the #2 pistons are what everyone is using however i only have the #3 pistons. Am I supposed to have a selection of different pistons in the kit?
In the mean time as i dont have any other pistons should I go down to 35 weight oil?
Cheers
Aaron
In the mean time as i dont have any other pistons should I go down to 35 weight oil?
Cheers
Aaron
Here's another shocker, the pistions for the TC3/TC4 shocks are smaller in diameter by .006", and the new TC5 pistons are also thinner by .004". I elected not to use them since I could not get an e-clip on the shock shaft with taking a file to the pistions to make them slightly thinner, and with the #2 pistions being .006 smaller, they will allow shock fluid to bypass around the piston instead of completely through the holes in the piston.
Yes, you can drop the fluid weight by 5 to 10. I think I read somewhere that the #2 pistions are close to making a 5wt change in fluid, and the #1 piston would be close to 10wt change. Of course, they won't be the same, but will have similar effects.
08-21-2007, 06:54 AM
#3723
STLNLST, I don't know if this could cause the problem with the spur gear stripping out but it's worth a look. Has your layshaft pulleys/spur gear mount developed any slop. It's hard to explain but has the slots where the pin slides through the layshaft and locks the pulley/spur gear mount in place worn out? On my car the plastic pulley has developed slop to where the spur can now rotate back and forth on the layshaft (...when the layshaft is being held). Just something to look at...
08-21-2007, 08:30 AM
#3724
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
No, the TC5 kit only comes with #3 pistons... I bought two TC5 kits, one for spare parts, and both came only with #3 pistons. This kinda irritated me, but I can see that Associated is trying to maximize their profit by making more and more parts optional.
Here's another shocker, the pistions for the TC3/TC4 shocks are smaller in diameter by .006", and the new TC5 pistons are also thinner by .004". I elected not to use them since I could not get an e-clip on the shock shaft with taking a file to the pistions to make them slightly thinner, and with the #2 pistions being .006 smaller, they will allow shock fluid to bypass around the piston instead of completely through the holes in the piston.
Yes, you can drop the fluid weight by 5 to 10. I think I read somewhere that the #2 pistions are close to making a 5wt change in fluid, and the #1 piston would be close to 10wt change. Of course, they won't be the same, but will have similar effects.
Here's another shocker, the pistions for the TC3/TC4 shocks are smaller in diameter by .006", and the new TC5 pistons are also thinner by .004". I elected not to use them since I could not get an e-clip on the shock shaft with taking a file to the pistions to make them slightly thinner, and with the #2 pistions being .006 smaller, they will allow shock fluid to bypass around the piston instead of completely through the holes in the piston.
Yes, you can drop the fluid weight by 5 to 10. I think I read somewhere that the #2 pistions are close to making a 5wt change in fluid, and the #1 piston would be close to 10wt change. Of course, they won't be the same, but will have similar effects.
08-21-2007, 01:13 PM
#3726
No, the TC5 kit only comes with #3 pistons... I bought two TC5 kits, one for spare parts, and both came only with #3 pistons. This kinda irritated me, but I can see that Associated is trying to maximize their profit by making more and more parts optional.
Here's another shocker, the pistions for the TC3/TC4 shocks are smaller in diameter by .006", and the new TC5 pistons are also thinner by .004". I elected not to use them since I could not get an e-clip on the shock shaft with taking a file to the pistions to make them slightly thinner, and with the #2 pistions being .006 smaller, they will allow shock fluid to bypass around the piston instead of completely through the holes in the piston.
Yes, you can drop the fluid weight by 5 to 10. I think I read somewhere that the #2 pistions are close to making a 5wt change in fluid, and the #1 piston would be close to 10wt change. Of course, they won't be the same, but will have similar effects.
Here's another shocker, the pistions for the TC3/TC4 shocks are smaller in diameter by .006", and the new TC5 pistons are also thinner by .004". I elected not to use them since I could not get an e-clip on the shock shaft with taking a file to the pistions to make them slightly thinner, and with the #2 pistions being .006 smaller, they will allow shock fluid to bypass around the piston instead of completely through the holes in the piston.
Yes, you can drop the fluid weight by 5 to 10. I think I read somewhere that the #2 pistions are close to making a 5wt change in fluid, and the #1 piston would be close to 10wt change. Of course, they won't be the same, but will have similar effects.
08-21-2007, 01:46 PM
#3727
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
According to Associated's website, they are the same for the TC3, TC4, TC5, NTC3, etc...
Is is possible that over time and use they wore down on the outside, reducing diameter, and were manufactured slightly thicker than the TC5 pistions?
I will re-measure the #2 pistons when I get home.
Is is possible that over time and use they wore down on the outside, reducing diameter, and were manufactured slightly thicker than the TC5 pistions?
I will re-measure the #2 pistons when I get home.
08-21-2007, 02:53 PM
#3728
The old pistons you may have were probably molded by AE or their old subcontractor. I think all the new stuff is getting done by thunder tiger. I noticed the old pistons I had were a bit off on the size, and I took them straight off the tree (NOS). However, I have been using the Tamiya 3 hole, since they worked on another car I had. They seem to be good for foam/carpet, but you need a motor shim on the shock shaft to tighten it up, as they are thinner.
08-21-2007, 02:54 PM
#3729
Tech Regular
You can use a allen wrench to push them out. Just be careful not to damage the body.
08-21-2007, 02:56 PM
#3730
Tech Regular
08-21-2007, 04:21 PM
#3731
Rob when are you gonna be out at the track next ?
08-21-2007, 06:32 PM
#3732
Hi STLNLST,
Due to the incidient, your car could have been tweaked slightly.
Some things to check:
1. make sure motor screws are tigtened properly
2. check that spurs are true spinning (no low/high spots) - if there are, make sure you mesh the spur on the lowest spot
3. check centre layshaft to make sure its not bent
4. check other bulkheads for tweak
5. make sure motor plate screw is properly tightened (one that secures the motor plate to the rear left bulkhead)
Hope this helps.
- Leonard.
Due to the incidient, your car could have been tweaked slightly.
Some things to check:
1. make sure motor screws are tigtened properly
2. check that spurs are true spinning (no low/high spots) - if there are, make sure you mesh the spur on the lowest spot
3. check centre layshaft to make sure its not bent
4. check other bulkheads for tweak
5. make sure motor plate screw is properly tightened (one that secures the motor plate to the rear left bulkhead)
Hope this helps.
- Leonard.
08-22-2007, 12:26 AM
#3734
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia. St Ives RC Club.
Posts: 961
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Hi Warrick,
Pros:
more ratios
finer adjustment
Cons:
can be easily damaged
There are no real discernable differences between 64 and 48 pitch. It's really a matter of personal preference. Just make sure which ever one you choose, that:
1. you mesh it correctly
2. spurs spin true (I like and prefer the machined delrin spurs -RW and Robinson Racing)
Hope this helps.
- Leonard.
Pros:
more ratios
finer adjustment
Cons:
can be easily damaged
There are no real discernable differences between 64 and 48 pitch. It's really a matter of personal preference. Just make sure which ever one you choose, that:
1. you mesh it correctly
2. spurs spin true (I like and prefer the machined delrin spurs -RW and Robinson Racing)
Hope this helps.
- Leonard.
I hear lots of talk about 64-pitch gears, but let me state a fact some won't be thinking of. Unless you are a very good driver (were talking consistent lap times within 1-second of each other), then stick with more common and slightly cheaper 48-pitch gears until you can drive/perform consistently. You will have to keep less spurs/pinions on hand, and they are more durable.
Buying all the extra spurs and pinions needed for 64-pitch racing can be a waste of money until you become consistent. We all know that 64-pitch allows for greater gear ratio adjustments and run a little quieter, but if you are not consistent, then what good can be achieved by changing the gear ratio on a narrower scale? Granted, if money is of no concern, spend away.
I AM NOT consistent yet, though my lap times are coming down. I blame this on not finding a dialed setup for my TC5 just yet, but mostly my carpet driving skills are marginal as best, so 48-pitch works just fine for me.
Buying all the extra spurs and pinions needed for 64-pitch racing can be a waste of money until you become consistent. We all know that 64-pitch allows for greater gear ratio adjustments and run a little quieter, but if you are not consistent, then what good can be achieved by changing the gear ratio on a narrower scale? Granted, if money is of no concern, spend away.
I AM NOT consistent yet, though my lap times are coming down. I blame this on not finding a dialed setup for my TC5 just yet, but mostly my carpet driving skills are marginal as best
, so 48-pitch works just fine for me.
08-22-2007, 02:09 AM
#3735
Tech Master
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040