Originally Posted by Quante

Added a few more things to thingiverse:
1 Fuel line cutter.
Remember the upstops, TPU was way too stiff so I went back to silicone fuel lines at the dampers for an upstop. No need to discuss if this works, doesnt work, drives awfully,....
If you want to try it, you can at least decently cut the fuel lines the same and at a set length using this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6559367

2. Droop measurement circle:
Used this to setup my droop, nice and consistent; measurment to the bottom side of the wheel hex. I found this easier than measuring on the bottom of the arm. This figures should be around the same as the ones used in the setup sheets (for me they are, but theres printer tolerances, car part tolerances,... Use it if you`re interested.
I happen to use blocks of 8mm beneath my chassis, Also made a 10mm version because I know most will have 10mm droop blocks laying around :-)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6559359

Let me know of any improvements I might be able to make.

Originally Posted by matt prigmore

I’ve printed off the droop tool, would it be possible for the gauge to have 0.2m increments. Thank you with making this prints public.

Originally Posted by matt prigmore

I’ve printed off the droop tool, would it be possible for the gauge to have 0.2m increments. Thank you with making this prints public.

Originally Posted by matt prigmore

I’ve printed off the droop tool, would it be possible for the gauge to have 0.2m increments. Thank you with making this prints public.

Originally Posted by Quante

Hi Matt,
I could, does cost some work with the text and all but I can draw it in CAD without a problem but as the others already state, I'm afraid it'll be difficult to print it with a decent accuracy using FDM.
I'm also wondering if you can really tune the droop screws to get a 0,2mm increment and really see that its set correctly.

What I mean is, eg when doing it as most do it below the wishbone, visibility is bad, its never gonna be flat to flat, there's always some play in the arm balls.
Maybe some of the others can shed a light on this, can you really solidly set the droop to within 0,2mm using the droop screws?

Originally Posted by Mig89

yes I can. every full turn is .5mm of change. I know I can accurately gauge 1/4 turns which gives a resolution of .125mm. I can some what accurately get 1/8 turn if I really took my time. But general, all these gauges we use are only to establish a reference point. All long as you can repeat the measurement every time, it doesn't matter what number is being displayed as long as you can repeat the measurement. It will workout all in the end once you find the window that works for you.

Originally Posted by Quante

Hmm, sure about that? The pitch of an M3 thread is 0,5mm which means idd the droop screw will effectively be 0,5mm lower after 1 turn. But the droop is measured at the end of the wishbone. The distance from the suspension ball to the droop screw is like 1/4th (just guessing) of the distance from the suspension ball to the end of the suspension.
Would mean 1 turn of the droop screw means 4x0,5mm = 2mm displacement at the end of the wishbone.
Thats why I pose the question 😁.

Originally Posted by Mig89

nope it would be without know the overall length of arms. I can sketch the arm geometry out for a visual but the change of the value is going to require knowing factors, like shims under the arm, shims under the hub, effective length of the arms. but regardless, I think you miss understood that you can accurately measure a .2mm change. If can't, that means you're suspension is binding or method isn't repeatable. Repeatable is the most detail. If can consistently get the same result with measuring something, the results will be pointless. even if your tools have a tolerance of .01mm if even set the droop at say 5.4mm then you double check and you get 5.6mm and it's a different value every other time. That will hurt you more than your tool being off by .1mm.

Remember, all these setting are relative do tolerance in manufacturing and human error when measuring.

Originally Posted by Quante

Ah ok, then I misunderstood what you meant idd and you're correct, its not gonna be an absolute measurement but you can get yourself in a window of you're liking and adjust L/R the same.
I did notice with the droop blocks you can fairly nicely set the droop to just touch and repeatability in the suspension isnt a problem but it requires extremely small adjustments on the droop screws and a very good view on the part you're measuring.
The droopblock I drew up measures on the bottom of the wheel hex, good visibility and because there's a tiny amount of play on the wheelhub's suspension ball you can really eyeball it just not moving.
The view on the visibilty below the suspension arm is a lot worse so seeiing is just touching will be incredibly hard.

Originally Posted by Quante

Hi Matt,

I'm also wondering if you can really tune the droop screws to get a 0,2mm increment and really see that its set correctly.

can you really solidly set the droop to within 0,2mm using the droop screws?

Originally Posted by disaster999

If you look at most 1/10th touring car droop gauges, almost all of them have 0.2mm increments. It is not hard to make small 1/8 or even 1/16 of a turns for those grub screws and really dial in the specific height. Whether if 0.2mm difference of droop is that noticeable is another story