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Old 01-03-2024, 08:17 AM
  #1606  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Make sure your track width is 189mm or more before grinding the axles....
track width isn't affected by grinding the axle studs. Track width is affected by the wheel hexes. the stud can have 2 threads exposed or 20 threads and wheel is still end up on the same location.
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Old 01-03-2024, 08:24 AM
  #1607  
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Originally Posted by matt prigmore
just put a steel wheel nut on the thread before before grinding the axle down, then back the nut off and it’ll pull any burrs off of the thread.
I've done that before and you can make hard to start threading on the nut. the correct way is to chamfer the end of the screw but I really don't feel like taking all that off to grind away at the stud. That just my preference. btw I really only broke that axle because I was riding the barrier and only of the boards stuck it meet with the other one and I would get to catch that edge. In my case, It was my of a fluke and the 2nd axle from t-bone a car that spun infront of me. another scenario where the axle probably shouldn't have not broken
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Old 01-03-2024, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mig89
track width isn't affected by grinding the axle studs. Track width is affected by the wheel hexes. the stud can have 2 threads exposed or 20 threads and wheel is still end up on the same location.
And if you change the track width by changing the hex or by shimming, you change how much thread is required for the nut. You might cut it too short if you cut it for a narrow setting and then restrict yourself from using a wider setting.
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Old 01-03-2024, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
And if you change the track width by changing the hex or by shimming, you change how much thread is required for the nut. You might cut it too short if you cut it for a narrow setting and then restrict yourself from using a wider setting.
which is about 1-1.5mm of stud exposed. I have found that if you need to add to more 1mm of track width per side, then there something in your setup that's making you over compensate for it.

I know vta and usgt use a different tires and usually require you to space them off so they clear steering plates. but regardless, it sounds like cutting them is a bad idea from a setup standup point as you would be limiting yourself how wide you can make the car.
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Old 01-03-2024, 11:04 AM
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I always thought that wheel manufacturers should mold the profile so you the wheel can nerf off stuff. In the old days the Trinity Foam TC wheels did that.
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Old 01-03-2024, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bmwjoon
I always thought that wheel manufacturers should mold the profile so you the wheel can nerf off stuff. In the old days the Trinity Foam TC wheels did that.
they still do. mugen designed so can use a variety of different class tires.
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Old 01-03-2024, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mig89
they still do. mugen designed so can use a variety of different class tires.
I can't use the standard TC Sweep rims on my MTC2R without binding because the stock wheel hexes are too narrow. The rim binds on the hub.
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Old 01-04-2024, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
I can't use the standard TC Sweep rims on my MTC2R without binding because the stock wheel hexes are too narrow. The rim binds on the hub.
Ive only ran one set of sweep 36 and didn't encounter any binding issues. well at least not that notice. I did recently have a rim bind but I had a bent steering plate that I hadn't noticed. other than that stock hexes.

Any tips on making sweeps work. In general I struggle with getting tire temp into them. I didn't have much success figuring them out.

Last edited by Mig89; 01-04-2024 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 01-04-2024, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mig89
Ive only ran one set of sweep 36 and didn't encounter any binding issues. well at least not that notice. I did recently have a rim bind but I had a bent plate steering plate that I hadn't noticed. other than that stock hexes.

Any tips on making sweeps work. In general I struggle with getting tire temp into them. I didn't have much success figuring them out.
If using the narrow hex and sweep d spec I think it can rub. No issues with the standard hex.
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Old 01-06-2024, 05:44 PM
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Default Touring car body

Looking at the Zoo racing GOAT body. What are everyone’s thoughts on the best body for 25.5 touring car?
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Old 01-06-2024, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ctek
Looking at the Zoo racing GOAT body. What are everyone’s thoughts on the best body for 25.5 touring car?
That'll depend on the type of track but in general you probably want a lower drag/downforce body as you move down in motor speed.
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Old 01-07-2024, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ctek
Looking at the Zoo racing GOAT body. What are everyone’s thoughts on the best body for 25.5 touring car?
It all comes down to to chassis set-up and track conditions. I don't recommend the GOAT or the Lens body in your on a tight track or your running a High arm setting. Arms being raised past 1.5MM. More downforce in slower classes over works the car. I run a twister if the grip is high and if the grip is low i run a wolverine. also chassis set-up along with what body your running plays a major part. If you have the time post a set-up and lets see what you are running.
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Old 01-08-2024, 10:50 AM
  #1618  
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Originally Posted by racer034life
It all comes down to to chassis set-up and track conditions. I don't recommend the GOAT or the Lens body in your on a tight track or your running a High arm setting. Arms being raised past 1.5MM. More downforce in slower classes over works the car. I run a twister if the grip is high and if the grip is low i run a wolverine. also chassis set-up along with what body your running plays a major part. If you have the time post a set-up and lets see what you are running.
I personally use the twister with the GOAT wing to reduce the downforce a bit for stock racing. In general, If need more overall grip of a neutral handling shell, twister speciale is my go to. The goat is used if I need more steering because the rear is locked in. I've ran the wolverine before and I liked it but can't give an honest opinion since my setup is now way different than before. I just painted one up to test again.

Considering trying the p63. It's not a bad body for stock racing if you have plenty of rear. Also, the redhawk, is probably the most aerodynamic body but the front end is very strong on it as it sacrifices rear downforce for more aero efficiency. When I ran the redhawk. I was a couple mph on the field with a tired 21.5 motor. Only downside, it's hard to attack in high speed turns with the redhawk.
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Old 01-11-2024, 06:59 PM
  #1619  
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Sorry if wrong to post it here. Is there any hints if Mugen will launch a new FF car
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Old 01-11-2024, 08:18 PM
  #1620  
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Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho
Sorry if wrong to post it here. Is there any hints if Mugen will launch a new FF car
They might, but most probably not in the near future.
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