Eotz

Hi.

I'm already working on it. Here is the new version of the bulkhead covers. The Bulkheads are also going to loose a lot of material.



I'm working on a revised version for some time. The acutal 3D printed suspension arms are pretty masive too, about 75% infill. The electronic I used is quite heavy too. It all adds up.

But I want to try the actual car in some races searching for weak points.

Dotkip

Looks very nice and neat!

Eotz

With the new bulkheads and bulkhead covers I save about 28g.




But I won´t order this parts in a short time. I want to drive the car like is now, at least in a few indoor races (Now that we have new ETS black carpet). I hope to save a few grams more with new electronic.Maybe also a new Zooracing Wolverine body.

h2e

Now the lower bulkhead looks too thin at the base, where you have the hole. I'd thicken up there by 2-3mm.
The Shocktower attachment screw holes look oversized, still. Check the TRF420 how thin it is. You don't need more than 3mm thread on both screws.
Nice weight savings though!

Eotz

Yes, I have to modify the base, the long side. Is going to be symmetrical from the YZ plane from the center of the differential.

h2e

Don't really know what that symmetry will give to you. You can lighten the parts without changing your CF parts. Just think of where the load goes if you try to bend or twist your chassis. It will want to be transfered on the shortest and stiffest path: bottom deck, lower bulkhead (the side facing the topdeck, not the arb mounting), topdeck.

Juan Aveytia

I never received your email. [email protected]

Eotz

I sent you the mail again. Who knows what happened.

Eotz

I'm going to leave the main carbon parts like they are now, so the basis of the bulkheals won't change (for the moment). Just a question. Do you think that the bulkeads reinforcement can be removed? I think that is better to leave there. Especially now with much lighter bulkheads.



I have many problems with the electronic installation due the Hobbywing motor we use here. When the 3 electric cables are place to the top, as usual, the sensor connector looks directly to the transmission, so I have to mount the mottor rotated 90º with the sensor connector looking to the top, and it make me a problem between the receiver connectors and the motor wires. Just like that.



But... The car is designed to be symmetric except for the servo and electronic floating plates. So I ordered the symmetric servo and electronic floating plates.to install all the eletronic on the right side of the car and the battery on the left. I have to wait a couple of weeks to get then.

h2e

Lighter Bulkheads:

Magenta: Possible changes in the bulkheads design.

- I would remove the stiffener around the ARB mounting
- I would move the ARB wire and bearings as close to the Diff as possible (1mm gap max), and even make a cutouot in the top bulkhead for the ARB bearing. If you invert the bearing and bearing stopper, so that they mount from the outside, you have more space in between.
- Keep your chassis holes, but make the basis of your lower bulkhead a bit wider. This will transfer stress better throughout your chassis (drew a few lines in red, where the loads will be guided in torsion loading)
- Why is your upper bulkhead so far away from the bearing? I assume you can't move your diff up or down because of the shaft drive. So you should have your bulkhead only go till that point. The CFRP top deck could then go over your bulkhead cover and you save a screw (I find you have a bit many screws in that topdeck area).

Possible lower mounting of the bulkhead? may be too heavy compared?

Eotz

Thanks for your feed back. I think this image will help to understand the bulkheads. The bulkhead cover is 5 mm wide in the top. As you say, I can make it 2mm thinner and also about 2mm lower, without changing the screwing point. About the differential bearing housing fit exactly with the 12mm externalk diameter bearing. I also going to made a proposal with the other advices you made, wider union with the base and removing the stiffener.


Ah!, and I learned today how to design flat gears. I had this pending point for a long time.

Sir 51D3WAYS

^I would suggest not. Topdeck overlapping upper bulkhead would be a nightmare for diff access, unless you plan on doing it old school and go ball diff. See TRF501X for details.

Eotz

No, I'm going to let it like is now, just 4 screws to remove the bulkhead covers and differentials.

h2e

yes topdeck overlap only works if the topdeck is below. anyway, if you get down to Tamiya level bulkhead weight all will be fine. I imagine you are not far from your weight goal...

Regarding wiring, maybe dremel the topdeck a bit?

skimax

I don't have anything to add to this thread but this is damn cool and awesome to see the progress!