Professor

iTrader: (12)

aussie bob yes you are probably rite the new motor that came in the mini kit my daughter brought came out at 17550 as well,but i have brought brand new ones that only do around 16000 so it can be a bit of a lottery,as for that rule i dont know why it is there actually because its not like this class is run at national or state titles or anything
one thing that needs to be remembered here is whilst its great to have a clean high reving motor you still have to get the gearing combo rite as well
i know that by going up 2 teeth on the spur gear(but keeping the same rollout)made the car faster,took a bit of experimenting different combo"s to get it rite & of not hitting things & clean racing helps getting fast consistant times

Dadaman

iTrader: (20)

I would have to fully agree with the "clean is fast".
Whilst in Coffs, I cleaned a motor for a young guy and, if I recall correct, he added 1.5 laps to his PB.
Second, I cleaned a good stock motor for GotXray and I do believe in his first run he = the old track record. Not to mention a few tweaks to the suspension.

Also, clean looks better!

As with the 540, I guess everyone wants to stick to their own maintance ideas. The main reason for the shelite is to soften the brushes. If anyone isn't game enough to use shelite, get somnething that will soften the carbon brushes. Water does, just takes a hell of a long time to soften them.

Vance

Hi there guys,

"the cleaner, the better" is pretty obvious guys. What I think we need to focus on is what method of running the brushes/spring tension after the brushes are set/shellite/metho alchohol/brasso/'other liquids' is the best option to use. Personally I don't like the idea of using any sort of alcohol, because of safety reasons. Still, brasso works the best for me...a bit messy though, but consistent. If you missed my previous posts, use soapy luke2hot water when dunking you motor as this will soften the brushes and help then set easier. Relate this to red brushes on a Monster SS motor...softer more power, but more comm wear.
Again guys, what I like most about 540 silver can motors, is that a racer with a tight budget can easily perform good or better than the $$$ hungry racers. PLEASE let’s not get into batteries and all that now. I would suggest to all clubs to lengthen the racer time (i.e. 8min racer instead of 5min), which will enable the guys that gear accordingly to not dump before the race is finished, or melt their motor. At my local club we had a 2400NiCD battery limit about a year ago, which really made for interesting racing as it meant that the fast guys didn't actually win 'cuz of dumping. Thanks for all your comments and effort in this thread.

Cheers,
Vance.

PeteB

iTrader: (-1)

I agree with the 8 min heats/races idea, frequently we have 4 min heats, which are crap. make one mistake and your through, also to only get two 4 min heats and a 5 min final, which means alot of effort for 13 min of race time. I remember back in the early 90's, 4 min races because of battery capacity (1200mah). we have more than enough spare capacity to go for 8min or even longer.

Dadaman

iTrader: (20)

I think you will find that 4min heats and finals are the only format that will fit in. I like the 8min finals, but due to time, it isn't catered for. At the moment, we finish about 11:30 at night. I am sure TJ will adjust time for heats and finals based on how many driver turn up on a Friday. He has done it before and it has worked out good. Someone told me once that they used to finsih like 1:30am to 2am. Sounds a bit late to finsh a race meet.

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys,
8 min finals are def in the mix, with batteries going the way they are and most guys being able to afford good packs with runtime over 400sec, the silver can class could have increased finals. I know a guy who runs 1 battery pack for 2 heats and wins every time!

Vance

Hey guys,

Has anyone had a 540 silver can enduro race? I would like a few comments on howto ran such an event i.e. rules, time, etc...

Thank you.

Vance

RocketRacer

@ Vance and Teddygoat, will you guys be racing at this weekends national at Keywest?? i will, driving up from Durban on thursday, i would be lekker to meet you guys if you are gonna be there.

ford_racing

iTrader: (6)

For an endurance race set a time or a number of laps 2hrs + generally, 1 or 2 cars only per team, handout motors are the best way but can be a little bit more expensive.

Gen rules according to what your club runs and go from there basically

Vance

RocketRacer,

I am stuck in my bosses grip, I am out of town on a work project and will not be able to race at Keywest (d@mm!!!). Make some skid marks on the tarmac for me ;-) Enjoy it and as they say in the movies "... keep it on the black stuff."

Cheers,
Vance.

racenut

iTrader: (15)

i dont have a motor cleaner, can i use wd40???

PeteB

iTrader: (-1)

WD40 is a metal lubricant / preserver, it will leave an oily residue throughout your motor, and while it may get some gunk out, as soon as you run it, it will get even more full of gunk as dirt and crap will stick to it etc. You need to use a solvent of some sort, like motor cleaner. If you cant get any, metho, or turps will do.

Pete

MK_Arbiter

Turps as in turpentine?

PeteB

iTrader: (-1)

yeah, thats what I used last time, (no metho in the house) and it works well. last race meeting, there was no 540 class, so I thought I'd mix it up with the stock guys, and consistantly placed mid field. which isnt too bad... I am also driving a new car that has had minimal setup time, (but has nice new bearings).

use a cotton bud dipped in metho/turps and press it against the comm, and turn the motor by hand, repeat until the comm is nice and shiny and there is no more black stuff coming off on the bud.

works a charm

let me know how you go...

racenut

iTrader: (15)

thanks pete

How do i know which is the positive side and negative in my motor???