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Old 03-29-2018, 12:47 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by NitroStar
Good grief. I'm at over $300 just for FT chassis, chassis braces, cage, body, tires, driver figure, and bumpers, body mounts, & hexes. Not counting all the different length screws needed. Better off finding a roller deal somebody needs to get rid of. Or turn this thing into something else.

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Old 03-29-2018, 01:09 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by NitroStar
Good grief. I'm at over $300 just for FT chassis, chassis braces, cage, body, tires, driver figure, and bumpers, body mounts, & hexes. Not counting all the different length screws needed. Better off finding a roller deal somebody needs to get rid of. Or turn this thing into something else.
Yeah I was gonna say you'd probably be better off selling the buggy and buying a new DB8...
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:13 PM
  #108  
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I'd make a proper for sale post, but here's mine. It's obviously been wet, but I'd go through the diffs and take picture after making a post in the for sale section.

I have the rest of the parts, the body currently has custom green panels, but I'm about 98% certain I still have stock tan panels in good condition.

I would also clp the axles and screws if you wanted.


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Old 03-29-2018, 01:31 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Dave_S
I'd make a proper for sale post, but here's mine. It's obviously been wet, but I'd go through the diffs and take picture after making a post in the for sale section.

I have the rest of the parts, the body currently has custom green panels, but I'm about 98% certain I still have stock tan panels in good condition.

I would also clp the axles and screws if you wanted.


I would be interested in this. What's condition of chassis bottom especially in rear? Buggy chassis wears out stupid fast.
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroStar
I would be interested in this. What's condition of chassis bottom especially in rear? Buggy chassis wears out stupid fast.

I think have another chassis I could throw in, if I still have it it's new and black.


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Old 03-29-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave_S
I think have another chassis I could throw in, if I still have it it's new and black.


Will you sell it with all parts only including hexes and no electronics or will price be close to same? About what are ya thinking on price?
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroStar
Will you sell it with all parts only including hexes and no electronics or will price be close to same? About what are ya thinking on price?

It will be much, much cheaper as is without electronics. Like $125. That's without my going through everything and using clp and stuff.
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Old 03-29-2018, 02:50 PM
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Damn, wish I could find one for that price in Europe, even with my aversion for used stuff that'd be pretty irresistible It's a bit silly after 8 months I still want this car despite having no need for it (well, of course you can say that one never actually NEEDS any RC car, but you get my meaning... maybe).
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:18 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Dave_S
It will be much, much cheaper as is without electronics. Like $125. That's without my going through everything and using clp and stuff.
I'm missing the meaning of clp??
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroStar
I'm missing the meaning of clp??
Some screws have a bit of rust on them, it's just a way of cleaning and protecting them.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:57 AM
  #116  
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So i just got one of these and ran one pack through it. i like it but it needs some suspension love from the get go. What weight shock oil is stock? its to light. Also the tires leave a little bit to be desired.
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:47 PM
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You can run 12mm beadlocks on the 8mm stub axles. This will give you infinite options of tires and wheels that are 2.2 size. I don’t have the TA DB8 but I have a Tekno et48 and hpi apache that I recently set up like this. Team associated has the same stub axle specs as these trucks.

You would need these adapters
https://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-for...le_p_4081.html
Heres my Tekno


And heres my Apache. Both 1/8 scale buggy based running aluminum 2.2 bead locks


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Old 05-19-2018, 02:01 PM
  #118  
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Or...Motoworx racing just recently started making 17mm hub bead locks. Not cheap though!...but awesome to finally have 17mm beadlocks!

http://motoworxracing.com/?product=2...7-17mm-hex-hub


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Old 05-21-2018, 07:29 AM
  #119  
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Awesome! A few questions:
1. When using the cold adapters, is the width just right or do you use spacers or would you even want to?
2. When using the 17mm wheels, do you use any of the spacers etc....
3. What cages and/or bodies are you using?

Originally Posted by chainsaw10
You can run 12mm beadlocks on the 8mm stub axles. This will give you infinite options of tires and wheels that are 2.2 size. I don’t have the TA DB8 but I have a Tekno et48 and hpi apache that I recently set up like this. Team associated has the same stub axle specs as these trucks.

You would need these adapters
https://store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-for...le_p_4081.html
Heres my Tekno


And heres my Apache. Both 1/8 scale buggy based running aluminum 2.2 bead locks


Originally Posted by chainsaw10
Or...Motoworx racing just recently started making 17mm hub bead locks. Not cheap though!...but awesome to finally have 17mm beadlocks!

2.2 XD17 For use with 17mm Hex Hubs |


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Old 05-21-2018, 09:31 AM
  #120  
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Both trucks are wider than allowed for u4rc racing....I don’t race so the wider stance is better for me. Race limit is 13.5”. I can get the HPI to that width easily I believe. But the et48.4 would need one of two things, either eb48.3 or sct410.3(arms, hubs, knuckles, etc).
The Tekno is using rc8t 17mm extenders/adapters and .250 Motoworx hub extenders. The HPI is using the 17 to 12mm adapters andGearhead hubs(but not sure the offset at the moment)

the tekno body body is from a Losi SCBE. THE HPI is a HPI Apache c1 flux. Chopped and modified a bit.
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