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-   -   Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/971559-tekno-rc-eb48-4-thread.html)

ezlight 06-15-2017 01:16 PM


Originally Posted by Malazan (Post 14952897)
What size Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles fit this, I know the teknos are 5x58, 5x52, and 4x56

Lunsford are 5x50, 55 or 60 and 4x55

Will small mm differences like that matter? Is it better to a little longer or shorter?

I would get longer, and cut them to size for full adjustability.

Stiggosaurus 06-15-2017 08:18 PM

I've been running my EB48.4 quite a bit over the last 1.5 months, often times multiple times a week. Bearings are starting to look/feel a bit rough, so I think its time for my first round of thorough maintenance. Probably going to replace the bearings and change the shock and diff oil here very soon. My shopping list currently consists of:
  • 450cst and 550cst Mugen shock oil
  • Hudy Graphite Grease
  • 7000cst and 10,000cst AE diff oil
  • Full set of Avid Revolution bearings for the EB48.4
Couple questions:
  1. Are there any "disposable" parts in the diffs or shocks that should be replaced and not reused?
  2. What's the best way to go about cleaning the diffs before I reassemble (or should I even bother)?
  3. Any reason to go with the rubber or metal Avid bearings as opposed to the "Revolution"?

bigdaddy83 06-15-2017 11:40 PM


Originally Posted by Stiggosaurus (Post 14953641)
I've been running my EB48.4 quite a bit over the last 1.5 months, often times multiple times a week. Bearings are starting to look/feel a bit rough, so I think its time for my first round of thorough maintenance. Probably going to replace the bearings and change the shock and diff oil here very soon. My shopping list currently consists of:
  • 450cst and 550cst Mugen shock oil
  • Hudy Graphite Grease
  • 7000cst and 10,000cst AE diff oil
  • Full set of Avid Revolution bearings for the EB48.4
Couple questions:
  1. Are there any "disposable" parts in the diffs or shocks that should be replaced and not reused?
  2. What's the best way to go about cleaning the diffs before I reassemble (or should I even bother)?
  3. Any reason to go with the rubber or metal Avid bearings as opposed to the "Revolution"?

Check the o-rings in the diffs and gasket for any wear. I use brake cleaner from the auto department to clean out the diff cup. I put the gears in a tea diffuser and soak in a jar of Naptha. When reassembling the diffs, I grease the o-rings and outdrives and put back together. I would look into getting PT RC Race oils for shocks and diffs. Much more consistent bottle to bottle than other brands. I go with the Revolutions.

nitrousdave 06-16-2017 04:32 AM

In case anybody is interested, I tried the overdrive (3.25 vs 3.33) in the front of my car last weekend and the effect is definitely noticeable. I could come out of the corner much harder but getting through the turn to that point was slower. If I wasn't on power the car wanted to push and even on power it pushed more. Granted the track was pretty hard and dusty since there hadn't been any rain in a while. While it wasn't a good change all by itself I think with some setup changes and driving it a little different it could be good. I want to get a couple races in before I try it again. Hopefully this will help people wanting to try it.

Danger Dietrich 06-16-2017 08:18 AM

Shock Caps
 
I also prefer the vented build with 4x1.8s 40 front 35 rear. I have a different theory on the shock bladder puncture, it is not a new occurence for me. I had it originally on the kids SCTs and occasionaly on my eb 48.3 vented shocks. I think the sharp edge in the cap when you drill for a vented build or in the .4 caps the sharp edges where the tapped vent hole comes through the cap is what cuts the bladder. With a dremel and a small round bit I chamfer all those sharp edges inside the cap and have never had the issue again.



Originally Posted by vwduud (Post 14937431)
Through extensive testing for both on track handling (feel) and lower lap times, I too find that a vented, bladder build works better for me.

Note that I am not using stock pistons however (VRP GameChangers - see links below for further details).

Just a quick note when using the new .4 caps that allow you to run any build (emulsion, bladder vented and bladder non-vented):

The inside of the cap is slightly different from the original caps. The original caps have an added recess to allow the top of the shock shaft and nut to push into. Originally, this wasn't really needed. However when the new lower shock bushings came out, we gained upward travel at just a little more than 1/8 of an inch.

New Revised Lower Shock Shaft Bushings(as found in the .4 kit):
TKR6146B ? Shock Cartridge Set (CNC, Delrin, revised, all 16mm shocks) ? Tekno RC, LLC.

Original Option Lower Shock Shaft Bushings:
TKR6146 ? Shock Cartridge Set (CNC, Delrin, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) ? Tekno RC, LLC.

If you're not familiar with this change, it simply changed the length of the lower-most shock bushing; the part that sticks out of the bottom of the shock where the shock shaft exits. New, revised version is shorter to provide more up travel.

With further up travel, the recess in the older cap helps to prevent pinching the bladder in between the top of the shock shaft/nut and the underside of the cap.

While there are multiple solutions to solve this, I simply chose to go back to the original, vented shock caps.

If interested in reading more about my setup and the differences between the shock build types, read here (these are different posts in the same thread):
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Emulsion shocks vs Bladder shocks
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Emulsion shocks vs Bladder shocks
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Emulsion shocks vs Bladder shocks
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Emulsion shocks vs Bladder shocks
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Emulsion shocks vs Bladder shocks

See photos:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...pszzqtdmx1.jpg
New cap on left with angled bleeder hole drilled. Right shows original cap with extra travel recess.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...pslen90oud.jpg
You can just see the "oval" impressions left by the bleeder hole of the new cap when the shock shaft and nut pressed the bladder into the bottom of the shock cap. You can also see the "ring" in this cap when it was initially used in the original caps. The "ring" was created when the shock shaft pushed the bladder into the recess of the original cap, touching the edges of the recess. Although it leaves this "ring", it does not cut the bladder.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...psj5su4kdi.jpg
Blowout from being pinched between the upper shock shaft/nut and new shock cap along with excessive up travel - very messy when this happens.


Stiggosaurus 06-16-2017 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by bigdaddy83 (Post 14953689)
Check the o-rings in the diffs and gasket for any wear. I use brake cleaner from the auto department to clean out the diff cup. I put the gears in a tea diffuser and soak in a jar of Naptha. When reassembling the diffs, I grease the o-rings and outdrives and put back together. I would look into getting PT RC Race oils for shocks and diffs. Much more consistent bottle to bottle than other brands. I go with the Revolutions.

Good stuff, thanks, exactly what I was looking for. Unfortunately I've already purchased the diff oil, but I will pick some of this up next time around. Will definitely put in an order for some shock oil though.

Tbuggy 06-16-2017 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by Danger Dietrich (Post 14953878)
I also prefer the vented build with 4x1.8s 40 front 35 rear. I have a different theory on the shock bladder puncture, it is not a new occurence for me. I had it originally on the kids SCTs and occasionaly on my eb 48.3 vented shocks. I think the sharp edge in the cap when you drill for a vented build or in the .4 caps the sharp edges where the tapped vent hole comes through the cap is what cuts the bladder. With a dremel and a small round bit I chamfer all those sharp edges inside the cap and have never had the issue again.

I think you are right...look at the shape of the tear in the bladders, it is "U" shaped, exactly what you would imagine would happen being pressed up against that drilled out hole.

Malazan 06-16-2017 10:36 PM

Has anyone tried VRP pistons yet?

ezlight 06-19-2017 01:23 PM


Originally Posted by Malazan (Post 14954420)
Has anyone tried VRP pistons yet?

I know a couple top level drivers did some testing with VRP, and they didn't show any improvement for our shock package over the tekno pistons available. Last I knew VRP was still working on it.

I am, along with several others, trying them in our SCT's since it has a closer to normal shock package. Last I looked VRP doesn't have a tekno specific piston yet.

vwduud 06-19-2017 01:37 PM


Originally Posted by Malazan (Post 14954420)
Has anyone tried VRP pistons yet?

I use them exclusively in my EB and ET.

Malazan 06-19-2017 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by vwduud (Post 14956221)
I use them exclusively in my EB and ET.


Do you use the Game Changers or VX3's

vwduud 06-19-2017 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by Malazan (Post 14956304)

Do you use the Game Changers or VX3's

GameChangers

Malazan 06-19-2017 03:17 PM

Nice, I just ordered a EB48.4 from Amain today, finally showed in stock this morning

I was going to get a set for it and my SCT410.3

JPucko 06-19-2017 06:06 PM


Originally Posted by nitrousdave (Post 14953759)
In case anybody is interested, I tried the overdrive (3.25 vs 3.33) in the front of my car last weekend and the effect is definitely noticeable. I could come out of the corner much harder but getting through the turn to that point was slower. If I wasn't on power the car wanted to push and even on power it pushed more. Granted the track was pretty hard and dusty since there hadn't been any rain in a while. While it wasn't a good change all by itself I think with some setup changes and driving it a little different it could be good. I want to get a couple races in before I try it again. Hopefully this will help people wanting to try it.


Interesting, I'm thinking of trying this. Our track is pretty low grip. What is your diff setup, as in oil weights?

Malazan 06-19-2017 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by vwduud (Post 14956306)
GameChangers

What size piston did you choose?


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