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+1 didn't need shims or reaming in the arms on my kit.
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Originally Posted by Rasheed
(Post 14899753)
To be clear, I'm talking about step P-2 in the manual where you attach the oval shaped metal piece to the front of the motor. My motor has 6 holes, all of which are M4 size. The holes in that oval shaped piece are too small for an M4 screw.
TKR5211 ? Motor Mount Insert (aluminum, gun metal anodized) ? Tekno RC, LLC. |
Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 14901162)
Quick question is everyone using the shims in the diff between the oring and the sun gear?
Originally Posted by Jason B
(Post 14901206)
I didn't need any
Originally Posted by JoeW
(Post 14901220)
I did not need any optional shims nor did mine need any optional reaming of holes to allow free movement.
Originally Posted by daedalus
(Post 14901428)
+1 didn't need shims or reaming in the arms on my kit.
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Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 14901633)
To be clear, everyone saw the question was about the shims/washers INSIDE the diff, not on the diff/case right? As far as I'm aware, the shims/washers (TKR5145B) inside the diff are always used. The shims outside of the diff between the bearings and diff case (TKR1222) are to tighten/loosen the diff mesh with the drivetrain (TKR8152)and are indeed optional depending on how tight/loose that fit is after assembly.
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Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 14901633)
To be clear, everyone saw the question was about the shims/washers INSIDE the diff, not on the diff/case right? As far as I'm aware, the shims/washers (TKR5145B) inside the diff are always used. The shims outside of the diff between the bearings and diff case (TKR1222) are to tighten/loosen the diff mesh with the drivetrain (TKR8152)and are indeed optional depending on how tight/loose that fit is after assembly.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 14901657)
i was refering to the shims inside the diff case. the ones over the orange oring.
Picture for 100% clarity as it seems there COULD still be confusion (or it's just me ;) ). |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 14901662)
I have never seen where people have omitted TKR5145B (green circle) in the build, nor does the manual list it as optional. TKR1222 is (red circle).
Picture for 100% clarity as it seems there COULD still be confusion (or it's just me ;) ). |
ok i want to order some spare parts and some tuning option parts and suggestions? shock springs, sway bars for as far as tuning parts.
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 14901694)
ok i want to order some spare parts and some tuning option parts and suggestions? shock springs, sway bars for as far as tuning parts.
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So after a few days on the track i noticed a fair amount of hub play in all 4 hubs. Also now i cant seem to get the buggy to go in a straight line now due to this issue any one having this problem?
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 14901162)
Quick question is everyone using the shims in the diff between the oring and the sun gear?
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I have never left that washer out of any TLR kit I have ever built (three 8ights E, two SCTE and a 22-4). It protects the o ring from the spinning pin. I assumed you meant the actual optional shims because the washers you are referring to are never optional...at least for any kit I have built.
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Originally Posted by Derrick87
(Post 14901798)
So after a few days on the track i noticed a fair amount of hub play in all 4 hubs. Also now i cant seem to get the buggy to go in a straight line now due to this issue any one having this problem?
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin
(Post 14901807)
I have play compared to when it was new,but nothing i would call excesive. Or cause it not to track straight. Check your pill inserts are matching
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Originally Posted by Derrick87
(Post 14901830)
Pills are in the right way maybe i just need to check every all the buckles and make sure they mach up in mm.
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