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Originally Posted by Rasheed
(Post 14899747)
this seems like a dumb question, but...
My old (but still working) orion 1900kv motor only has M4 holes on it. The Tekno motor mount uses M3 screws. Is there any solution to this problem other than buying a new motor? |
To be clear, I'm talking about step P-2 in the manual where you attach the oval shaped metal piece to the front of the motor. My motor has 6 holes, all of which are M4 size. The holes in that oval shaped piece are too small for an M4 screw.
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Just finished mine and overall I'm pleased with it. Only things i would improve are:
shock cap orings- too large in my opinion, were a pain to get to sit flat in the cap bleeder screw orings- pain to get on, would rather see a washer like losi uses rear spring collars looser than fronts- measured my shock bodies and the rears are .002" bigger than the fronts Now I can't wait to run it! |
Originally Posted by Jason B
(Post 14899615)
I think what he's saying is that there is room for 1mm+, and I found that to be the case on mine, too. I doubt the play will be an issue, but definitely something I noticed.
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Just finished mine as well and I second everything Dave said. After trying the first shock cap o-ring for ten minutes, one thing that worked was to get the o-ring in the cap as well as possible then carefully screw the cap on the body. It will press the o-ring flat into the cap....hopefully this helps someone.
Originally Posted by nitrousdave
(Post 14899908)
Just finished mine and overall I'm pleased with it. Only things i would improve are:
shock cap orings- too large in my opinion, were a pain to get to sit flat in the cap bleeder screw orings- pain to get on, would rather see a washer like losi uses rear spring collars looser than fronts- measured my shock bodies and the rears are .002" bigger than the fronts Now I can't wait to run it! |
I'm about ready to start the steering build but so far I must say this thing is built like a tank compared to the Losi 8ights I have built. All the pieces feel heavy and overbuilt. The plastics are nice and thick feeling. The bolts are heavy with a nice feel. It's hard to explain going from all TLR stuff to this. It just feels like a real race car built to last as opposed to the TLR which, while nice and never really gave me any trouble, just seems like it cuts corners where the Tekno puts an emphasis on durability.
I will say the TLR manual is nicer. The images are better and more detailed than the Tekno. And I don't have to clip any parts off the mold like a Testers model kit. This seems a tad cheesy to me but maybe it's the way everyone does it except TLR? I would also have liked to have my fluid containers filled. There was barely enough 10K diff fluid. If I had made a mistake I would have had to buy more. Just fill the bottles please ;) TLR gives my complete bottles of shock and diff fluids...plenty to do multiple applications. Can't wait to continue the build next week. Truly a joy seeing all the stout hardware. |
Okay...silly question...but i'm looking at the Joe Bornhorst setup sheet, and for the shock pistons it says rear 3.0 and front 3.1 ....what exactly does this mean?
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[QUOTE=mike142;14900011]Okay...silly question...but i'm looking at the Joe Bornhorst setup sheet, and for the shock pistons it says rear 3.0 and front 3.1 ....what exactly does this mean?
Means 3-hole, 2.0mm and 3-hole, 2.1mm. |
[QUOTE=Tampagoalie;14900124]
Originally Posted by mike142
(Post 14900011)
Okay...silly question...but i'm looking at the Joe Bornhorst setup sheet, and for the shock pistons it says rear 3.0 and front 3.1 ....what exactly does this mean?
Means 3-hole, 2.0mm and 3-hole, 2.1mm. |
4 Attachment(s)
I'm officially done with my build, minus soldering things up and getting my hands on an aluminum servo horn because I'm an idiot and didn't order it with my kit.
Some random thoughts: - Fit/finish was excellent. Very, very minor play in hubs as mentioned previously, but simply shimmed it away. Also an issue with loose shock collars in the rear as others have mentioned, but not sure if it will prove to be an issue on the track. - No missing parts - No issues with the motor mount - While this is my first 1/8th scale, I feel like I just built a tank. - I'm really digging the thought Tekno put into wire organization. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to my electronics installations and wire management, so I really appreciated the sensibility that went into this. - From a build/technical standpoint, I'm thrilled with my purchase. I haven't driven my own yet, but I did get to drive someone else's the other day and it was a joy. Just a quick fun fact: I always try to build turnbuckles using the manual's 1:1 pictures and using calipers to match the manual's measurements. With every other kit I've ever built, results have ranged from "pretty close" to "wtflol". The EB48.4 is the first time I haven't had to adjust anything steering-wise or camber-wise after the fact. Everything was dead-on perfect. |
Originally Posted by nitrousdave
(Post 14899908)
Just finished mine and overall I'm pleased with it. Only things i would improve are:
shock cap orings- too large in my opinion, were a pain to get to sit flat in the cap bleeder screw orings- pain to get on, would rather see a washer like losi uses rear spring collars looser than fronts- measured my shock bodies and the rears are .002" bigger than the fronts Now I can't wait to run it! Exact same things I noticed. I used the shock cap to "set" the orings because I couldn't get them to sit flat by hand. Would be nice to have a grub screw in the shock collars also. One that tightens against the o-ring to lock them in place. More shims for the outer hinge pins would be nice. A tekno aluminum servo horn would make the kit complete. You could make one with inserts for the different spline counts. As a guy that waited months to buy the original eb48, I'll say bravo. You guys really did an awesome job as usual. With the $50 I saved vs a losi kit I bought some extra fluids and whatnot. |
Quick question is everyone using the shims in the diff between the oring and the sun gear?
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 14901162)
Quick question is everyone using the shims in the diff between the oring and the sun gear?
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 14901162)
Quick question is everyone using the shims in the diff between the oring and the sun gear?
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I did not need any optional shims nor did mine need any optional reaming of holes to allow free movement.
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