All depends on the track and size of jumps, etc...

There are some track layouts that I never break a single part... sometimes when learning a new layout that might have a large triple or quad and casing a large jump, I might snap an aluminum shock cap... I don't run the middle nor rear chassis braces, so I'll occasionally bend a center drive shaft. I think I bent a shock shaft once, never broke an arm, but the front arm holes tend to wallow out over time, and need to be replaced after about a year or so. After a nasty crash into a pole, I bent the front sway bar once... I usually go 2-3 months of racing before I might break a part after a weird situation. Maybe pick up a spare spur gear.... not a bad idea to check your mesh periodically, especially if you took a nasty cartwheel during a prior race, might be worth applying fresh thread lock on your motor mounts.

Best investment will be a pin replacement tool, I use this one:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-s...gb0541/p221425

I replace the pins in the driveshafts at the first hint of any flat spots... then you can expect your out drives to last indefinitely.

Thank you for your reply bill. Never thought the guy who recommend me the JX servo in youtube would respond again to my question. And I'm glad I took your advise

Just one more question. Any wear issue on the spindle and spindle carrier?

I've since moved on to SRT servos :)

No abnormal wear that I can see on my spindles/carriers... I tend to rebuild my car once every 2-3 race days and clean/inspect my bearings. Tekno does a good job with captured hardware and I think this helps reduce wear, only way I can see stuff wearing faster would be a seized bearing.

I would run the smooth track setup until you feel that your car is getting bounced around too much. CVA's are a big change and IMO are a must unless you're on a really blown out track. They just build much more grip

Ordered an eb48.4 yesterday from Tower. I'm going to take my electronics off my lx2e (2100kv motor and HW sc8). Super excited for it to arrive! It will be my first time building a kit as I figured why not make use of my time off this summer. I plan to have a fluorescent orange body and tires would most likely be duratrax lockups (I'm more of a basher than a racer).

Thanks, I'll give the two setups a compare. The track though is like really loose compared to what is considered commonly loose right now lol. Buckshots in M3 compound appear to be tire of choice.

Just wanted to give a little feedback on the current generation of setups. The smooth track setup is where you want to start for 90% of your tracks. If you can't handle the bumps, then you'll swap to the rough track.

For the smooth track setup, a few of us found it has a small push in the middle of the turn. This isn't a bad thing as it makes the car a little easier to drive without sacrificing speed. If you feel that you need a little more steering, you can move your front hubs forward and you'll have a ton.

The ackerman is missing from the sheets. It should be middle dot for both.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c83329e614.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...92d5c585d3.jpg

New release ?
 

how would 100 degree temps affect this shock oil of choice?
i am running the rough track setup except full kickup
I have slight push no power in turns low to medium traction
at night when moisture is in its perfect
thanks

These setups are based around 70* temps, so 650 to 700 shock oil would be a good place to start for temps approaching 100 degrees.

yea like Jesse said, Rule of thumb is 50 cst for every 15 degrees. Remember it's not an exact science so you'll need to experiment some. The team just did the legwork to get you started :)

what about my push on no power steering in 180's?

Just to be clear, are you saying that the car pushes into the turn off power?

We need to see your setup sheet in order to answer correctly.

yes