Cain

iTrader: (294)

While that may be true with say the D413, that isn't the case with the Durango as its mounted down the centerline. The weight balance using the ESC behind the motor versus the shorty on the other side was much better as you can imagine.

The question then became how much of a benefit do you see from the raised sections for clearance. The durango setup is much higher than I think they probably needed but they went with gear they appear to have already had on hand versus say a small spur like the D413 has in comparison. To get even more balance I ran the rest of the gear (receiver and transponder) in the middle.

With electronics oriented towards the rear, this does a good job for loose tracks apparently. For something more high traction, seen setups with electronics more towards the front on the two platforms I have owned when reviewing setups.

If Tekno can offer the EB410 that gives balance options to both the front and rear while still using a shaft drive, that will be something.

latentspeed

I've had the first version dex410. Good responsive steering. People complained that it was over aggressive, but when the skid plate chassis weight was added the car was balanced. Add the side weights and the rear was stuck to the ground.

But that's not the point. It's possible but I doubt tekno will follow Durango having the servo centered with the drivetrain over it. Since the drivetrain is facing up coming out of the bulkhead, and the dog bone cvd was angled straight you had to be sure to grease it up often. You know the center driveshaft needs greasing when it burns you after running. I'm not in favor of that for the 410 unless universals come standard.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

when they went with version 5, it had a much better planted rear end. Really enjoyed the car other than the crap wing mounts. If they had not dropped their racing team could have been interesting to see what could have been done with that car.

With Tekno we have seen they are dedicated to racing as well as communication and improvements, should be good times.

latentspeed

Rod ends are a plus, more reliable then ball cups. I think schumacher is the only wheeler using them.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Only drawback is that my K2 tends to strip servo gears from time to time, I've heard some prefer to run servo savers and they will break as well, but the cost to replace servo gears is about a wash when you flip stripped gears around. It would be nice if they could figure out a way to shrink down 1/8 servo savers for use in the wheelers and that would be king!

rippen

iTrader: (11)

Tekno has a lot of people on the hook for this one, great sales pitch.

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

What servo are you running that you're stripping gears? Myself and a few other here at Tekno don't run servo savers on our SC and 8th scale buggies and I don't believe any of us have stripped gears. We've had a few plastic case servos get a little loose at the output shaft but that's about it.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

We're talking about the Schumacher K2 and how it uses captured links... I was explaining the trade off with captured links and the added stress that is placed on the servo (without a servo saver). I've been using a PowerHD 8312 in most of my cars, I currently race 5 classes with this servo, and over the course of 7 years of racing, the only car I've stripped with this servo is the K2. I have had problems with a Radiopost RPS2207M in my 1/8 buggy, but swore off that servo after replacing 2 gears with the internal gear within a gear stripping out, I believe that to be a fundamental design flaw with Radiopost IMO.

On my PowerHD 8312, it's the main spline gear that's stripping out, I simply rotate the gear 180° and drill a new 2mm hole on the opposite side to remount the swivel pin:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8020/2...4ec15c73_c.jpg

I probably strip this gear once every dozen or so race days and it usually involves a very nasty crash... never broke a single part other than 1 shock shaft on the car, but having to swap a stripped gear every so often isn't any big deal to me, I always keep a spare servo in my pit box.

As far as my Tekno SCT410.1 goes, it has a built in servo saver (on the steering post) and never stripped a servo gear on that car over the 4+ years I've been racing it, so if the EB410 uses a shrunk down version of the same servo saver, then that would be awesome

werner sline

did a 1/10 buggy ever make everyone talk so much because it came out ?

JoeW

iTrader: (6)

So does the summer date mean it will be officially announced in the summer or ready for sale in the summer?

latentspeed

A good servo will damage its case first before its gears strip. That's why certain brands make optional all metal cases. Some completely tighten their servo savers in 8th scale and don't often run into problems. Stock plastic horns get stripped out in 8th scale, but not often in wheelers, at least from my experience. In any case a servo saver would be nice. Although consistency and direct steering feel would decrease.

I just don't like ball cups. Easy to pop on and off, but it pisses me off that driving on bumpy surfaces alone can cause that. Popping off doesn't mean that if it didn't pop off something would have broken.

I'm hoping the 410 will come with rod ends and servo savor. Although I'd just tighten the servo savor all the way down. lol I use ko rsx servos so it won't be a problem.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

I use solid aluminum horn in all my cars, and not seeing any damage to the plastic servo cases that have stripped titanium gears, although I recently swapped out to a Tessman edition servo on my K2 to see how well it can handle the abuse with captured ball ends... unfortunately the 1/10 program in our area is on hold as they rebuild the track (to include new building enclosure) with Astroturf. Also not convinced that a 1/8 servo saver fully tightened won't still allow some play in the harshest landings/crashes. I tend to run my savers a bit on the tight side as well.

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

When I mentioned earlier that we aren't running servo savers in our 8th scales, I meant we're running our optional crank that is a solid piece. It's the one in the middle as opposed to the 2 piece saver next to it. The only save the servo could see is when the plastic parts flex.

latentspeed

Sucks for you. I'm using mks servo for my 48.3, the same that Bornhorst uses. He tightens his saver to one turn out. Never seen him fail to finish a race because of busted servo gears. Never had issues myself. Also use ko rsx servos. Even if your servo gears are made of titanium, the size, width and mesh of it's gears also determine how much they can take. Just because it's titanium doesn't make all titanium servos equal. Brands like ko have the least amount of backlash and nothing else is as quiet or smooth.

Bottom line 8th scale will punish servos more than wheelers. They weigh twice as much on wider front tires. Plastic servo horns are destroyed easily in 1/8, but not a problem in 1/10. Nonetheless I wouldn't worry about it unless you know for certain the 410 won't come with a servo saver.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for the clarification... I've heard nothing but good things about MKS servos... I agree that 1/8 cars will typically provide more abuse on servos but I wonder if longer linkages might offer a little more flex? I'm also running full aluminum steering rack in my K2 so there's practically no slop and no flex which is nice for precise steering output, but there's no forgiveness when landing with steering full lock from a large triple on a high traction surface, eventually over time, the gears in my Power HD servo will strip out (with no servo saver and aluminum horn)... if the Tessman servo fails in the same fashion, then I might give MKS a shot to see if their metal is any better. I've also started testing an aluminum case brushless servo from JX in my 1/8 Truggy and have been very happy with it so far too:
JX BLS-HV7032MG I might give this one a shot before dropping $250 on an MKS servo which then begs the question at what point is it cost effective?

Let's say I go through 2-3 servo gears a year at a cost of $45 replacement total max... or go through 4-6 servo savers as a cost of roughly the same, then how many years of racing the same chassis is it worth buying a more expensive servo... and will the more expensive servo guarantee to hold up too?

I don't think there's any right/wrong solution, just different philosophies of spending about the same amount of cash over time.