2421Likes

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

03-29-2017, 11:43 AM

#196

Cain

Tech Legend

iTrader: (294)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: West Fargo, North Dakota

Posts: 34,382

Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)

Good stuff. I am looking forward to seeing what specific "spec" class items you guys come up with and if it will be included in the box or as an "upgrade" package.

boudin4evr likes this.

03-29-2017, 01:01 PM

#197

Allen Drebi

Tech Regular

iTrader: (18)

Join Date: Sep 2011

Location: Scottsdale, AZ

Posts: 337

Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

It will accept both standard and low profile servos.

Matt
I'm in the process of ordering electronics for the car. I'm having hard time quantifying the amount 14 gauge wire I will need. Could you please post a picture to show the distance between the ESC area to the motor and the battery. Thanks

Cain, mellow, oivaf1 and 5 others like this.

03-29-2017, 01:25 PM

#198

SpongeX

Tech Adept

iTrader: (1)

Join Date: Jan 2015

Posts: 203

Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen Drebi

I see what you did there.

03-29-2017, 01:27 PM

#199

dogbone418

Tech Master

iTrader: (24)

Join Date: Dec 2016

Location: Pittsburgh

Posts: 1,002

Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpongeX

I see what you did there.

haha. i'd like to think Matt starting typing and was like..wait a second!

03-29-2017, 01:33 PM

#200

EbbTide

Tech Elite

iTrader: (39)

Join Date: Nov 2012

Location: Bay Area, Ca

Posts: 4,264

Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allen Drebi

Other than the attempt at getting a peek of the new chassis, 14ga wire is good enough for a wheeler? Genuinely curious if people run that.

03-29-2017, 04:39 PM

#201

Matthew_Armeni

Tech Master

Thread Starter

iTrader: (31)

Join Date: Nov 2007

Location: Temecula

Posts: 1,864

Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)

You won't need a lot of wire is all I can say.

About wire gauge, I pretty much stick to 12 gauge for everything. I can see using 14 on maybe a 2wd buggy where you're usually not running as fast of a motor and you want to save weight since the wires can be longer.

latentspeed likes this.

03-29-2017, 04:50 PM

#202

Cain

Tech Legend

iTrader: (294)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: West Fargo, North Dakota

Posts: 34,382

Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)

maybe you can answer this. how many screws does it take to take out a front and / or rear diff?

boudin4evr likes this.

03-29-2017, 05:58 PM

#203

EbbTide

Tech Elite

iTrader: (39)

Join Date: Nov 2012

Location: Bay Area, Ca

Posts: 4,264

Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)

I kinda figured 14ga was no bueno. Confirmed: EB410 officially endorses 12ga for its chassis.

03-29-2017, 06:16 PM

#204

Cain

Tech Legend

iTrader: (294)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: West Fargo, North Dakota

Posts: 34,382

Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)

For a spec class, 13.5 honestly I think 14 could be fine. I know a guy who uses that no issues. Easy to solder.

Now past that though yeah 12 gauge is safer.

03-29-2017, 11:17 PM

#205

latentspeed

Tech Regular

Join Date: Aug 2013

Posts: 328

Trader Rating: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

You won't need a lot of wire is all I can say.

Yes!!! That makes me more hopeful that it's not the same layout that many are doing. Bet the 410 will have a very similar layout to its bigger brother.

Already know what equipment I'll be using. All that's left to add in my cart is a pinion gear and of course the kit. All electronics will be new.

03-30-2017, 07:05 AM

#206

Cain

Tech Legend

iTrader: (294)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: West Fargo, North Dakota

Posts: 34,382

Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)

to be fair on other vehicles you do have the option to put your ESC and motor in different locations, so you could potentially not need much wire (on my dex410v5 I ran the ESC behind the motor in a back position and the shorty is on the other side, not much wire needed there at all, same with the D413 as far as pics I have seen). So I am curious if this means a radical change from what others or doing, or, they just went with locations that others also offer but optimized around that.

Should be good times for sure though to see Tekno's spin on a 1/10 4wd buggy.

boudin4evr likes this.

Last edited by Cain; 03-30-2017 at 07:46 AM.

03-30-2017, 07:14 AM

#207

billdelong

Tech Champion

iTrader: (33)

Join Date: Mar 2011

Location: Austin,TX

Posts: 6,194

Trader Rating: 33 (97%+)

in addition to having several different motor/battery layout options, one of the really cool features that I liked with my ER-14 was the ability to use their slide lock to tune the center diff without having to re-adjust the mesh with the pinion... hopefully Tekno has adopted the best features of all brands into the ultimate wheeler

boudin4evr likes this.

03-30-2017, 07:50 AM

#208

Cain

Tech Legend

iTrader: (294)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: West Fargo, North Dakota

Posts: 34,382

Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)

another feature that was similar but I liked was that on the DEX410v5, there motor cam has these "ticks" (little white lines) on it along with the motor mount, each tick would represent a position where you get optimal mesh. So you just line up the ticks on the mount and the ticks on the cam and have proper mesh. I really liked that feature.

03-30-2017, 10:35 AM

#209

latentspeed

Tech Regular

Join Date: Aug 2013

Posts: 328

Trader Rating: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

to be fair on other vehicles you do have the option to put your ESC and motor in different locations, so you could potentially not need much wire (on my dex410v5 I ran the ESC behind the motor in a back position and the shorty is on the other side, not much wire needed there at all, same with the D413 as far as pics I have seen). So I am curious if this means a radical change from what others or doing, or, they just went with locations that others also offer but optimized around that.
Should be good times for sure though to see Tekno's spin on a 1/10 4wd buggy.

Proper weight distribution is ideal. Not just shove the esc in the back while leaving the front empty, while there's a 50-60g servo on the other side. Been waiting for brands to do something about it, but the ones that have a different layout are belt driven.

03-30-2017, 12:31 PM

#210

billdelong

Tech Champion

iTrader: (33)

Join Date: Mar 2011

Location: Austin,TX

Posts: 6,194

Trader Rating: 33 (97%+)

Quote:

Originally Posted by latentspeed

The ER-14 is a shaft drive, it supports shorty or saddle, motor can be mounted front or rear and servo/ESC can be be mounted right or left as shown on page 25:
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/intech...R14_Manual.pdf

I think the only limiting factor with shaft drives are the ability to run a transverse shorty layout, the only one I've seen do this is the BZ-444 and it would do better with sub-shorties because some brands of shorties were too tall and would rub on the center shaft

Reply Share

First
Prev
14 / 348
Next
Last